Richard Whittemore
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2003
- Messages
- 500
- Reaction score
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I'll try to make this as simple as I can.
I wanted to add a trim & tilt switch to my tracker 50 hp.
I had a momentary 3 position toggle switch in my juck box.
Wired the switch in; blue on one end, green on the other end and 12 vdc from where it connects on the other side of the motor. (I eventually tried three different 12 v connections).
1st try, UP worked, DOWN did not and blew a 20 amp fuse on the side of the motor! Moved 12 v conn. and replaced the fuse.
2nd try, UP worked DOWN did not no fuse in line so the 12 v wire got hot and green wire got tepid.
Switch checks good with ohm meter, bow and throttle T&T switches work.
Changed 12 v wire to heavier gauge.
3rd try, same results just took longer to get hot.
I cannot find a short to ground with batt. disconnected.
What is going on? I spliced into the blue and green wires where they run by the knock out and connect to the relays.
I am starting to suspect the switch.
Any ideas?????
It looks like the DOWN direction of the pump motor draws more current. Is this true?
Could there be current limiting components it the factory switch? A new factory switch costs $51. Rather expensive.
Any help/ideas will be appreciated. It gets tiresome walking back and forth trying get the motor support on.
thanks
I wanted to add a trim & tilt switch to my tracker 50 hp.
I had a momentary 3 position toggle switch in my juck box.
Wired the switch in; blue on one end, green on the other end and 12 vdc from where it connects on the other side of the motor. (I eventually tried three different 12 v connections).
1st try, UP worked, DOWN did not and blew a 20 amp fuse on the side of the motor! Moved 12 v conn. and replaced the fuse.
2nd try, UP worked DOWN did not no fuse in line so the 12 v wire got hot and green wire got tepid.
Switch checks good with ohm meter, bow and throttle T&T switches work.
Changed 12 v wire to heavier gauge.
3rd try, same results just took longer to get hot.
I cannot find a short to ground with batt. disconnected.
What is going on? I spliced into the blue and green wires where they run by the knock out and connect to the relays.
I am starting to suspect the switch.
Any ideas?????
It looks like the DOWN direction of the pump motor draws more current. Is this true?
Could there be current limiting components it the factory switch? A new factory switch costs $51. Rather expensive.
Any help/ideas will be appreciated. It gets tiresome walking back and forth trying get the motor support on.
thanks