Trim and Tilt switch Add on

[Richard Whittemore]

I'll try to make this as simple as I can.

I wanted to add a trim & tilt switch to my tracker 50 hp.

I had a momentary 3 position toggle switch in my juck box.

Wired the switch in; blue on one end, green on the other end and 12 vdc from where it connects on the other side of the motor. (I eventually tried three different 12 v connections).

1st try, UP worked, DOWN did not and blew a 20 amp fuse on the side of the motor! Moved 12 v conn. and replaced the fuse.

2nd try, UP worked DOWN did not no fuse in line so the 12 v wire got hot and green wire got tepid.

Switch checks good with ohm meter, bow and throttle T&T switches work.

Changed 12 v wire to heavier gauge.

3rd try, same results just took longer to get hot.

I cannot find a short to ground with batt. disconnected.

What is going on? I spliced into the blue and green wires where they run by the knock out and connect to the relays.

I am starting to suspect the switch.

Any ideas?????

It looks like the DOWN direction of the pump motor draws more current. Is this true?

Could there be current limiting components it the factory switch? A new factory switch costs $51. Rather expensive.

Any help/ideas will be appreciated. It gets tiresome walking back and forth trying get the motor support on.



thanks

 

[Staci Matheis]

Richard -



Is there a "wiring diagram" on the side of the switch to show which posts go to which connection? You sound like you know what you're doing so that probably isn't the problem.....



Your switch may not be rated to handle the amps and could have self-destructed.....



I would strongly recommend: 1) Take it all apart and lay everything on the table. 2) Galk away for day and let your mind clear. 3) Go back and start all over - rethinking EVERY connection and splice you make before you do it.



If all else fails - Spend the buxs before you possibly burn something up that is even more costly!



Good Luck!



me!

(Who has burned up many costly things!)

 

[James D.]

Richard,



disconnect your switch and measure the amperage going thru one of the factory switches. this will give you an idea if your switch is rated for this. i would think it would be. Also, be SURE you are wiring in parallel. Also, find out for SURE which is the common of the factory circuit (positive or negative) as it could be either, but probably a switched positive. getting a wire hot means excessive current for the conductor. me! has a good suggestion to walk away from it for a day as sometimes that really helps to start on it fresh.



i've got a merc service manual but it is not for the 50 hp models but might be similar. One thing may be happening to you that i picked up on from the manuals wiring diagram.



The up and down circuits are operated by (2) RELAYS (one for up and one for down) which switch higher current to the trim motor. the down relay coil connections are Grn/Wht(pos) and Blk (neg). The higher current contact side of the down relay wires are Red (positive taken from starter sol. terminal non-switched) and the switched side of the contact is Green. The Up circuit is simialar with a seperate relay and the wiring is blue instead of green. what may be happening to you is that you are getting on the switched CONTACT side of the down relay (solid GREEN wire) which draws a lot of current instead of being on the lower current COIL side of the relay (GREEN/WHITE wire). thought this would help out cause if you were not aware of the relays, it would be easy to get on the switched contact side. To help out the coil side wiring colors are Green/White for the Down Relay (the other side of the coil is a black or ground wire). Beware that the solid green and solid blue wires are the switched contact side of the relay and you probably shouldn't wire a switch to these wires. To wire in another switch, you probably would want to pull in the hot wire from the fused side of the fuse for the common terminal of your new switch and then connect up to one of the Grn/Wht wires for the down circuit and then the other side of the switch to the Blu/Wht wires for the up circuit. this should keep you on the coil side of the relays rather than the contact side. hope this makes some sense as it is difficult to narrate. might check out the mercury site under electrical to see if they have any diagrams up for the electrical, otherwise, you'll need to get a manual or wiring diagram. wiring diagrams are kind of tough to follow as there are so many wiring harnesses on different pages for different models.



hope this helps,





jd

 

[Richard Whittemore]

James D.... You Da Man!!!!!

I don't even have to go and look at it. I am connected to the switched side!!! These wires run right down to the motor big as day. After breakfast and Church I will go and rewire everything and I am very sure it will work.

I have been in electronics over 35 years and I still make mistakes(!), I guess that's why the Dept. of Defense insist we use Technical Orders!!!

Thanks again. You made my day.

You too, ME! Thanks for your input.



Richard



That was it! I have trim & tilt on my motor now...

Thanks again..

 

[Staci Matheis]

James is also able to leap tall buildings in a single bound!

 

[James D.]

glad it worked out! i just got in from a day of fishin and a round of golf and couldn't wait to check out this thread to see if that was the problem or not. it was fun looking up the wiring dia and tryin to figure it out. the ckt was different than what i thought it would be. hope we never have wiring harness problems as that would be a chore to trace out. thanks again, as you guys are too kind. glad i could help and glad it worked and we didn't let all the magic out (fry something)



jd

 

[bigmikejones]

Could you post pictures where you made the connection and rewired?

Thanks,
Mike