1989 1800TF Rewire Project Question

[Georgia Jayhawk]

Hello all, I’m trying to get my boat rewired and clean up decades of garbage wiring at the same time. When I was looking at the wires on the back of the forward trim switches I got confused. The button closest to the camera is the trim down with the trim up next to it. I’ve always heard Blue for up and green for down. Anybody ever seen purple wires associated with trim controls? I’m so ready to fast forward to the end of this mess and get back on the water. The orange wire is the positive coming from the switch panel. There’s two other reddish-orange wires coming from the battery compartment (not pictured here) that run up the starboard gunwale for no apparent reason. I can’t for the life of me figure out where they’re supposed to be going either. HELP!

 

[Chobeemauga]

From what I remember you are correct about the green and blue. I think a green or the blue needs to be on the switch closest to the camera. The hot wire needs to be on the double spade with the jumper.

Trial and error may require you to switch the blue and green to get the label of the switch to match the action of the motor( up and down).

I hope that makes sense. I have a 93 and if I was home I would go open mine up and shoot you a picture. I cN do that next week if you like. I get back on Tuesday.

 

[Chobeemauga]

This may help too.

 

[Georgia Jayhawk]

Someone in another forum advised me from the first picture that the purple may indeed be +12v since it’s jumpered to both switches and suggested I swap the purple and green wires (pictured below). If the purple is indeed the hot, this configuration makes a TON more sense! I’ll find out for sure when I’m ready to start hooking up electrons to loads. The rat’s nest of wires under the helm and in the gunwale suggests that I’ve still got a ways to go before that happens though.

 

[Chobeemauga]

Someone in another forum advised me from the first picture that the purple may indeed be +12v since it’s jumpered to both switches and suggested I swap the purple and green wires (pictured below). If the purple is indeed the hot, this configuration makes a TON more sense! I’ll find out for sure when I’m ready to start hooking up electrons to loads. The rat’s nest of wires under the helm and in the gunwale suggests that I’ve still got a ways to go before that happens though.View attachment 3175

If the purple is hot, then yes.
In your original post you said the orange was hot. I was going off that info. The jumper is for the hot leg. Green and Blue are for trim, I just don't remember which one is up or down.

 

[Georgia Jayhawk]

If the purple is hot, then yes.
In your original post you said the orange was hot. I was going off that info. The jumper is for the hot leg. Green and Blue are for trim, I just don't remember which one is up or down.

I know the orange was A hot. Once I get some unused wires removed I can start tracing them out and verify. I’m also going off the clue that they used purple wire as the jumper. I’m reasonably certain that it’s hot as well. Have I mentioned this wiring is a mess?

 

[jerry shack]

I know the orange was A hot. Once I get some unused wires removed I can start tracing them out and verify. I’m also going off the clue that they used purple wire as the jumper. I’m reasonably certain that it’s hot as well. Have I mentioned this wiring is a mess?

Purple wiring is key switch hot. As a standard NMMA

 

[Georgia Jayhawk]

Follow-up question: does anyone know what’s behind this fiberglass surface? I’m considering using it as a mounting surface for my new electrical components (fuse panel, battery switch, ACR, main house circuit breaker). This was taken from behind the transom looking into the starboard hatches behind the driver’s seat. I know the gas tank runs parallel to the transom so it’s not that. I’ve seen where people mount their components to a piece of poly and then mount that inside the boat. Should I go try to find a cutting board Big enough, or does Lowe’s sell something that works better? Thanks in advance for your help!
Rock Chalk

 

[Chobeemauga]

An additional picture, wider angle, may help. Where are your live wells in comparison?

 

[Georgia Jayhawk]

Chobee:
The surface in question is along the starboard side. It’s visible in this picture. After looking at it earlier today it seems like the forward end of it is not fiberglass, but foam. Could this whole “box” be foam-filled?

 

[Chobeemauga]

I really don't know. Your hull is different than mine even though they are just a few years apart. Could that be a chase for your control cables and wiring?

If it were me, and I was only using a shallow screw to mount something, I would drill a shallow hole and find out. Provided I knew for certain I would not go through the side of the boat.

Sorry I was not more help.

 

[jerry shack]

Chobee:
The surface in question is along the starboard side. It’s visible in this picture. After looking at it earlier today it seems like the forward end of it is not fiberglass, but foam. Could this whole “box” be foam-filled?View attachment 3217

Yes , that hole area is a foam filled .

 

[Chobeemauga]

Just currios Jayhawk, what size motor is that? Looks like the an 90° OMC? Please tell me it is a GT 150 or an XP 150....

 

[Georgia Jayhawk]

“Just currios Jayhawk, what size motor is that? Looks like the an 90° OMC? Please tell me it is a GT 150 or an XP 150....”

Yes, it’s an XP150

 

[Chobeemauga]

“Just currios Jayhawk, what size motor is that? Looks like the an 90° OMC? Please tell me it is a GT 150 or an XP 150....”

Yes, it’s an XP150

Great motors. How fast?

 

[Georgia Jayhawk]

Well, the only time I checked it was against the wind, choppy lake, both daughters and I in the boat along with a full tank of gas and full ice and water cooler…42mph by gps. I believe it’s capable of mid 50s though.

 

[Chobeemauga]

I get 60. 180tf with a 150. Very similar hulls. I would think you should be able to get over 55 fairly easy. Those 90° OMC 150 were real hot in the day.

 

[Georgia Jayhawk]

That’s awesome! Once everything’s put back together, I’ll be looking forward to aiming for 60. After removing some of the old wiring, I fear I may need to just bite the builder and take it to a shop for the rewire. I was trying to remove the harness so I could examine and organize the existing wires and replacing any damaged sections, but the section that runs to the bow kept getting caught on something and I can’t physically reach it nor even get into a position to see it. I’m probably going to take it for an estimate next weekend. If the cost is what I’m expecting, I may have to make some payments on the work. Ugh.

 

[Chobeemauga]

When I re-ran wire to the front I used a piece of pex. Pre-ran what I wanted in the pex and just inserted beside the console.


They used tie wraps and electrical tape to hang that wiring. Probably bound up.

 

[Georgia Jayhawk]

When I re-ran wire to the front I used a piece of pex. Pre-ran what I wanted in the pex and just inserted beside the console.


They used tie wraps and electrical tape to hang that wiring. Probably bound up.

I mean, there’s ALWAYS brute force…
I don’t know if I should dare “grab and snatch” or not.