36V to a 24V on a Z19 with Ghost Motor with new electronics.

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Jul 6, 2021
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Moorhead, MN
I have a Ghost on my 2022 Z19. I recently switched motor to 24V from my original 36V setup( Ghosts give you a choice). With my 36V setup the boat went 10 MPH on hign at 47 amps and even after four days normal bass fishing never got down to 35V. The other problem was on my 36V setup was when I wasn't watching the direction when I hit the foot switch, the torque of that motor almost threw me out of the boat. Besides the AGM starter battery I have four 100AH lithiums. I put in another fuse box in the right rod compartment for all the electronics and now run them off two lithiums in parallel. I did this because of that cheap power cut-off button on the console failed failed and I lost all electronics, lights and pumps save the power to the bow MFD??? Why they marked a fuse as bow MFD is puzzling because there was no power at the fuse box yet the power was at the bow for the MFD. I cannot let the shop have my boat in for a week waiting because they say they must "diagnose" the problem. When I diagnosed that power went to the switch and no power came from the switch when pressed it with the leads to the fuse box unattached, it's the switch dammit.. I needed to build a buck convertor to the extra box to lower the voltage going to the extra USB ports I added around the boat, the waterproof ones that were available were made for cars with a max input of 13.3 V vs. the 14.7 V that lithiums are at the USB outlets
also have a buck convertor built in to lower 13.3 to 5 volts with no way to adjust them because they are sealed units. Plus the USB port for the driver were USB 2.0 which doesn't supply enough mA for most newer USB 3.0 devices like phones, tablets and hotspots while in use.
I bought the same switches that they use at Nitro from a company in China for $10, that was $10 for five switches. I have a serious problem with Nitro's wiring setups and the fact that the fuse panel didn't align with the markings for what each fuse was for. They also attached the power lead to the NMEA 2000 at the end of the backbone next to the terminator, against the NMEA standard which states that it should be placed as near as possible to the center to equalize the load. I have five NMEA 2000 devices now but had four before my new stereo was added. All four on one side of the power? I also added an auto bilge pump directly added to the AGM in case of any electrical failure. Last week a wake board boat came within fifty feet of my stern and sent a huge wave right over my stern, it went all the way to the back of the console seats. I was fishing the docks at the time and they were only 75 feet from the shore. I guess they overlooked the No Wake warning in the Minnesota Boating Law handbook. This is the new stereo, amp, capacitor and active target computer before I enclosed it with a watercooling system to keep it from overheating (That rod compartment was over 160 F on the lake without it, the video card in the Active Target wasn't designed to operate in that heat as itself is surrounded by a heatsink to cool it.

Look at those shock absorbers for the amplifier. A third of the rod box will be enclosed with fiberglassed polyiso insulation board with a recirculating cooling system in it, with the pump in the top of the cooler and the heatsink at the bottom of the cooler.

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