Water Problems? Read this.

[Bob Bourget2]

There seems to be MANY questions about this topic so......here's a couple of helpful quick-checks. Some have been discussed, some haven't.

Remember...."if it leaks in....it will leak out". Mostly all of these checks can be done on the trailer in your yard!!

If you are getting water in the bilge it can come from a number of areas....

-1] Motor mounting bolts. NEVER turn the shank of the bolt when checking torque, only the nut. Twisting the shank will break the sealer. If you've done this, the only PROPER way to re-bed is to remove the motor. You cannot get new sealant between the motor and transom unless removed.

-2] Thru-hull fittings. I've seen the sealers break-down. Simple test. Put the drain plug in and fill the boat from the inside. Look for leaking around the base of the fitting.

-3] Livewell leak. If a leak is suspect, install a plug at the outlet, fill the livewell and look for water accumulation in the bilge.

-4] Rivet or hull leak. Install drain plug and fill boat to the level of the floor.

-5] Rubrail. Most 'glass trackers are built with a "shoe-box" deck-to-hull joint. If you are getting water through the rubrail, a high pressure hose sprayed from the inside out will more than likely show the area that has a seal breach. The rubrail must be removed completely {not just the screws}, and the joint re-bed. All screws should be re-sealed as well as the BOTTOM half of the rubrail. You have to remember that all boats FLEX, and it is only a matter of time before the elasticity of the sealant breaks down and becomes brittle or stiff, then looses it's ability to seal.

-6] Transom mouldings. As with the rubrail, these are prone to leak over time. Be sure that all edges are sealed. This is important as you don't want water entering and rotting the transom.

-7] Backwash. Have your fishin' buddy watch the water closely as you come off plane. On some boats, you can literally FLOOD the boat from the wake. I might as well mention now that this is a huge issue with water entering the fuel system on boats equipped with fills at the transom, near the motor well.

-8] Anytime a screw is installed {or removed}, use the appropriate sealant to keep water out.

I use 3m 5200, Boat life Life Caulk or Life seal when doing any leak repair. You CANNOT use regular silicone. IT MUST STATE FOR USE ABOVE AND BELOW THE WATER-LINE

 

[Tony Onufriychuk]

ever heard of water dripping from under the dash, under the steering wheel?

 

[Bill McElroy]

Tony,......that happens alot. Your tube came undone from either the water pressure guage or the speedo. Very easy fix,.....cut off the section if it split,..and reattach to the gauge...then add a tie strap. problem solved!

 

[TOMMY RICH]

OR it could be like my case and just plain old BAD welds or CRACKS in the hull

BTW...the keel leak on mine was easy to find because water was dripping out at the bottom of the keel when on the trailer but, the 3" crack in the hull would not leak out when on the bunk and trailer. If you can't find the leak on an aluminum rig then, jack it up and check between the bunks.

I've read at least three posts on "other' sites with Trackers leaking in those areas.

Having removed my seats and floor...you'd all know why after looking at the supports and welds they use in those areas. I've never seen worse welds:angry:

My keel is bulletproof now...DOUBLE welds

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

Might want to add the reasons for water in the rod lockers or compartments. 1. Plugged or not functioning tube drains in the locker top channels or recessed TM tray, 2. Perko style locks not turned and put in the lock position. One other reason for bilge water is wrong operation of livewells and they overflow into the bilge or a cracked livewell wall.



I'll second the transom bolt water leak. I had clients and went to take off from a spot and my 929 struggled to get on plane...very odd. Got to the next spot and fished. When we went to take off, there was no getting on plane this time.....opened my rear locker and had water just about to the top of my batteries. took 30 min to pump it out. Got off the water and no leaking from the outside, pulled the batteries and backed her in the water....no pump or fitting leaks. Had me stumped until my mechanic came down and told me to leave her strapped to the trailer and back in deep. At first nothing then all of a sudden it looked like a firehose around my transom bolts!! Easy fix and never leaked again.



TOXIC

 

[Gary Hunter]

I c:angryuldn't figure out where all the water in the bilge was coming from .... After donning her PFD my wife agreed to peer into the bilge area while I hammered a hole shot and then came GENTLY to a stop. There was water in the bilge but we couldn't determine where it was coming from. Repeated the process only this time we removed the right rear plastic bin thing and duh wife stuck her head right down in the storage locker. What she saw: Water is pouring in over the right rear shelf and seems to be coming from the rub rail. I have no clue how to remove a rub rail and my crappy dealer would probably make it worse after six months of waiting. I think I'll just chunk some clear sealer over and under (not beneath) the rub rail and see what happens. I've owned the boat for 6 weeks. Fun and games.:angry:

 

[Gary Hunter]

I couldn't figure out where all the water in the bilge was coming from .... After donning her PFD my wife agreed to peer into the bilge area while I hammered a hole shot and then came GENTLY to a stop. There was water in the bilge but we couldn't determine where it was coming from. Repeated the process only this time we removed the right rear plastic bin thing and duh wife stuck her head right down in the storage locker. What she saw: Water is pouring in over the right rear shelf and seems to be coming from the rub rail. I have no clue how to remove a rub rail and my crappy dealer would probably make it worse after six months of waiting. I think I'll just chunk some clear sealer over and under (not beneath) the rub rail and see what happens. I've owned the boat for 6 weeks. Fun and games.:angry:

 

[Bob Bourget2]

The proper way to seal the rubrail is to remove it, {it starts at the transom cap moulding} clean off the old sealant, re-bed the deck / hull shoe-box joint, re-install the rubrail, seal the screw holes, and all should be good. This is a warrantable issue, unless it has been breached due to "impact". :unsure:

 

[Gary Hunter]

You are absolutely right Bob B. I popped out the center section of rub rail, unscrewed the actual rub rail from transom cap moulding all the way to drivers console side, caulked all gaps, (1/8" gap on side of boat, 1/4" gap rounding corner to transom cap)and re-assembled. I'm pretty sure this will solve my "water in the bilge" problem.



Thanks for the help.

 

[Bob Bourget2]