New problem...Transom Rot

[Bobsizz]

12/1/22 Progress


Hydro steering is bled. It is very firm and I can't wait to get on the water to try it!

Battery Charger is mocked up just need some fasteners.

Sadly, I am waiting on the fairing compound to finish the fiberglass work and the shipping info looks like it has been lost. So, I am in a holding pattern until it arrives.
I will probably only make a few more posts to this thread and then it can die. I can't believe this has taken a whole year but it is almost finished.

Fantastic job, I have been following your work. Did you have prior fiberglass experience before this project? How did you get the caps off? Is the upper cap glued to the lower? I always wondered how the upper and lower were joined. Once again Fantastic job.

 

[Andrebass]

I see the light at the end of the tunnel for you, just wait and get it done completely before next year's fishing season. take the time now to finish it right, don't rush out of impatientness (not even a word but nonetheless)

 

[Chobeemauga]

Fantastic job, I have been following your work. Did you have prior fiberglass experience before this project? How did you get the caps off? Is the upper cap glued to the lower? I always wondered how the upper and lower were joined. Once again Fantastic job.

I have been to inspect several boat builders in a former professional capacity. So, I have watched hulls being laid. I watched a lot of YouTube videos on the subject. It is not that hard. Follow the mixing instructions and brush on the resin. Lay the cloth and then keep adding resin until it is saturated. Roll the bubbles out from under it. The SeaCast that was used for the wood replacement was a learn as you go. I built the forms and planned how it would flow from summer work as a kid pouring concrete.

The top hull is married to the bottom hull by screews. They seal the joint with marine adhesive/ silicone.

I cut all the fiberglass with a side grinder and the thinnest cut off wheel I could find. I later bought an oscillating tool and that is the way to go. More control and thinner cuts.

I hope that the epoxy fairing compound will join the caps back on and leave a sandable seam that will finish nicely with some paint. That will be the next hurdle. I am not super worried how it will look but I want to make it as cherry as possible. So we shall see. I do like the black on the stern though. I wish I has a spray rig it would look so much better than the roll job. I may spring to have it painted at a later date.
Thanks for your encouragement!

 

[Chobeemauga]

I see the light at the end of the tunnel for you, just wait and get it done completely before next year's fishing season. take the time now to finish it right, don't rush out of impatientness (not even a word but nonetheless)

It has taken longer than I wanted for sure but at this point it is my aim to do it right. This is my first time attempting anything like this so I took my time and did all the homework I could to make sure it is done right.

Also, the people at SeaCast were a big help. I am beyond impressed with their customer support. I am just a regular customer in no way affiliated with them. I drop their name alot so I don't want to give the impression I am connected with them.

I still have some other issues to address. Trailer bunks, depth finders, and a new trolling motor. But after this those should be a piece of cake.

 

[Chobeemauga]

12/12/ 2022 Update

Been traveling and waiting on materials. I have been hard at it since Saturday.

The transom caps are faired in. One last sanding and then some paint.

The the blue tape will be the paint line. The back end will be black.

I also bought a new trolling motor.

I have it wired and ready.

Two new fish finders. GARMIN 9sv and 7sv. I have wire run but not mounted yet.

I ran into a snag with wiring. The main switch/breaker would not hold with the first fishfinder connected. It would trip out. So I had to run a new circuit and main switch for both of the finders. Hopefully will water test Wednesday morning. Stay tuned.

 

[jerry shack]

12/12/ 2022 Update

Been traveling and waiting on materials. I have been hard at it since Saturday.

The transom caps are faired in. One last sanding and then some paint.

View attachment 2778

View attachment 2779

View attachment 2780

View attachment 2781

The the blue tape will be the paint line. The back end will be black.

I also bought a new trolling motor.

View attachment 2782

I have it wired and ready.

Two new fish finders. GARMIN 9sv and 7sv. I have wire run but not mounted yet.
View attachment 2783
I ran into a snag with wiring. The main switch/breaker would not hold with the first fishfinder connected. It would trip out. So I had to run a new circuit and main switch for both of the finders. Hopefully will water test Wednesday morning. Stay tuned.

WOW !!!!! SUPER JOB !!! Nice work !! I know what it takes to do what you have been thru, I built 5 bass boats in my time and 2 Flats boats. If I might make a suggestion, I would put your graphs on there own wire direct to the engine start battery and with 10ga wire and fuse them close to the units . You won't believe the difference in picture quality.

 

[Chobeemauga]

WOW !!!!! SUPER JOB !!! Nice work !! I know what it takes to do what you have been thru, I built 5 bass boats in my time and 2 Flats boats. If I might make a suggestion, I would put your graphs on there own wire direct to the engine start battery and with 10ga wire and fuse them close to the units . You won't believe the difference in picture quality.

That is exactly what I did. I questioned the wire size so i am glad to hear you have had good results. I am going to switch them also so I can kill them after a trip. A master power switch only to the graphs.
I was also going to put a 15amp fuse at the battery. Overkill?

 

[Don Smith]

Seaclear makes a wire harness that includes ALL the parts needed for graphs. It is expensive but works great on all your graphs and will give you the best picture possible! I do not work for them but check it out on you tube. Great product! About 350!

 

[Chobeemauga]

12/13/22 Progress

Depthfinder circuit is run. I have power and every thing is powered up.

The toggle switch is the master power for the depthfinders.

The front turned out well. This is just mocked up I still need to size it for where I stand. But it will look something like this.

The back was painted this morning. Looks presentable. It will do.

I will probably have some touch up in the morning and I have not run the transducer for the stern yet. The paint was wet. I have fabbed up a mount that will attach to the jack plate. No water test tomorrow. I want to get the paint ample time to cure before I silicone the caps under the rub rails.

I am concerned about the paint lines. The masking tape kept wanting to pull up. It may look like a 3rd grader did it when I pull the tape...

I appreciate all the encouragement and advice from everyone here.

 

[jerry shack]

That is exactly what I did. I questioned the wire size so i am glad to hear you have had good results. I am going to switch them also so I can kill them after a trip. A master power switch only to the graphs.
I was also going to put a 15amp fuse at the battery. Overkill?

I don't think so, however I do think the 15amp is a bit much as the graph manufactures want a 3 amp fuse. I think a 5amp is cool though. The reason for the heavy wire is less resistance for voltage flow.

 

[jerry shack]

12/13/22 Progress

Depthfinder circuit is run. I have power and every thing is powered up.

View attachment 2784

The toggle switch is the master power for the depthfinders.

The front turned out well. This is just mocked up I still need to size it for where I stand. But it will look something like this.

View attachment 2785

View attachment 2786

The back was painted this morning. Looks presentable. It will do.

View attachment 2787

View attachment 2788

View attachment 2788

I will probably have some touch up in the morning and I have not run the transducer for the stern yet. The paint was wet. I have fabbed up a mount that will attach to the jack plate. No water test tomorrow. I want to get the paint ample time to cure before I silicone the caps under the rub rails.

I am concerned about the paint lines. The masking tape kept wanting to pull up. It may look like a 3rd grader did it when I pull the tape...

I appreciate all the encouragement and advice from everyone here.

Looks GREAT to me! So your sizing up the foot pedal to where your going to install the recess for the trolling motor pedal

 

[Chobeemauga]

Looks GREAT to me! So your sizing up the foot pedal to where your going to install the recess for the trolling motor pedal

Lol! I have never had a recessed pedal. Am I missing out?

On the wiring. I am not an electrician or electrical engineer so I know enough to be dangerous. I was concerned about the fuse sizing. If two graphs that pull 3amps are running at the same time do I need at a minimum of a 6amp fuse? Should I go more than that? Each graph has a 3amp in line fuse to protect them. I think 15 is a little big for my application but I wasn't sure how low I could go.

 

[jerry shack]

Lol! I have never had a recessed pedal. Am I missing out?

On the wiring. I am not anso I know enough to be dangerous. I was concerned about the fuse sizing. If two graphs that pull 3amps are running at the same time do I need at a minimum of a 6amp fuse? Should I go more than that? Each graph has a 3amp in line fuse to protect them. I think 15 is a little big for my application but I wasn't sure how low I could go.

Yes, you are, So weather you sit or lean or stand it's a lot off your knee and leg especially if you stand and fish so your not on one leg fishing. Your more flat footed and easy on your back. They make a prefabbed trolling motor recessed that you can mount in the deck of your boat. You can carpet it or paint it or just leave it black. All the bass boats now a days it comes standard.
If you are going to put the breaker on a single hot line and run 1 wire to each unit then I would put a 7 to 10 amp breaker direct to the battery and run the 2 wires off the load side to the graphs. I am no electrician or electrical engineer ether just been doing this stuff for 55 years.

 

[Chobeemauga]

Yes, you are, So weather you sit or lean or stand it's a lot off your knee and leg especially if you stand and fish so your not on one leg fishing. Your more flat footed and easy on your back. They make a prefabbed trolling motor recessed that you can mount in the deck of your boat. You can carpet it or paint it or just leave it black. All the bass boats now a days it comes standard.
If you are going to put the breaker on a single hot line and run 1 wire to each unit then I would put a 7 to 10 amp breaker direct to the battery and run the 2 wires off the load side to the graphs. I am no electrician or electrical engineer ether just been doing this stuff for 55 years.

That is basically what I did. I will have to pick up a smaller fuse. Probably do a 10 Amp.

I won't be able to for on it anymore until after the first of the year. Traveling for the holidays.

 

[jerry shack]

That is basically what I did. I will have to pick up a smaller fuse. Probably do a 10 Amp.

I won't be able to for on it anymore until after the first of the year. Traveling for the holidays.

I think a 10 amp is better than nothing. Have a happy holidays.

 

[Chobeemauga]

1/3/2023 Update

Back at it this afternoon.

Rubrail back on.

Bilge compartment cover and charger installed.

Stern transducer mount fabbed up and installed.

I still need a faster to complete it. Getting that tomorrow.

I still need to silicone the caps and install the stainless transom cap trim piece. I will have to cut it to fit and I am a little nervous cutting to length with a cut off wheel and side grinder.

 

[Andrebass]

I still need to silicone the caps and install the stainless transom cap trim piece. I will have to cut it to fit and I am a little nervous cutting to length with a cut off wheel and side grinder.

screw the ss trim piece to a piece of plywood or large enough piece of wood to hold it in place for you, then that eliminates one variable that can go wrong.

 

[Chobeemauga]

I still need to silicone the caps and install the stainless transom cap trim piece. I will have to cut it to fit and I am a little nervous cutting to length with a cut off wheel and side grinder.

screw the ss trim piece to a piece of plywood or large enough piece of wood to hold it in place for you, then that eliminates one variable that can go wrong.

That is a good idea! That would help me keep it still and able to make a good cut.

 

[jerry shack]

Looking GOOD ! It won't be long now!

 

[Chobeemauga]

DONE!!!

It's has been a little over a year but I am finished. The transom was rotted and I figured I couldn't tear it up any more than it was. I did a SeaCast repair on the transom. I beefed it up with additional stringers. I also upgraded with new Garmin units, MinnKota Maxxum, Bob's jack plate, hydraulic steering, and blinker style trim and jack plate controls.