Trolling motor questions

[Bill Willette]

I have a 2002 640lx that while the rest of the boat is in great shape the trolling motor just doesn't have the power it used to even after battery replacement. The mount is not in that great of shape either. So I am considering replacement and have a few questions:



1. How are these units mounted - are there nuts underneath the deck?

2. It looks like motorguide has changed things up a bit - would the new Gator 360 mount that comes with the 36" shaft motors fit my 640lx?



Have a good double monday and thanks in advance,

Bill

 

[Bruce Yeaton]

Bill



I don't think the 36" shaft is long enough. The one on your boat now should be 45". If I remember correctly, the motorguide uses rubber isolators to hold the mount to the bow, you shouldn't have any problem installing the new one.

 

[mike chip]

i had the same problem as your having a few years ago. i took it in and was told the brushes were dirty and should be cleaned every year. well, 40 bucks later the motor was like brand new. i wound up selling it with the boat but am planning on cleaning my brushes every year. it may be your problem, but then again it might not be, consider cleaning the brushes after you replace it for a back up unit.

mike c

 

[byron cooley]

Let me tell you a story of the fun I had installing a Gator II spring mount on my 04' 640LX. My 640LX came with a 36" 42lb Motor Guide. That motor would surface with the slightest chop on the water so I knew it was to short. After 1 week of owning the boat I took it back to my dealer to upgrade the trolling motor to the 5200 Pro Series MotorGuide with a 42" shaft. I picked it up from the dealer and it just did not look right but I could not figure out what was wrong. After a year and a half of using it the noises were realy getting loud when getting on & off the power. After a little investigation I realized that the dealer only swapped the motor itself and left the short mount. The motor assembly with prop was overhanging the mount and the longer shafts leverage when the motor was down had wasted the allready loose mount. So now the fun begins -- I got a great deal on a new in the box Gator II spring mount from Ebay. My factory mount was attached with bolts with washers and nylock nuts. I had to remove the front power panel to access 2 of the nuts and barely reached the others through the rod locker. I had to create a long wrench to reach them because my arms were not long enough and the power panel hole is to small for a whole arm. Going back in required the long wrench with the nut and fender washer attached with tape. It took me about 5 hours to do the job but it shure is quiet compared to the old one.

 

[Bill Willette]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I did not realize cleaning the brushes was even an option. After reading the info here I did peer under the deck and found the unit is mounted with some looong screws with fender washers and nylon nuts and Byron described. That has sortof put me back on a total quick replacement. I am going to have to replace the mount at some point because its bent, but I think I now see that at least one of the font bolts is loose and that maybe the cause of noise when the motor is going on/off. My current plan of action is to try and tighten the mount (at least I'll collect the tools needed for replacement - I wonder if that ratchet breaker bar I have is long enough) and see if I can find a place to clean the brushes - I take it this is not a DIY project (cleaning brushes that is). Then I can take a little time to see if I want to stick with 36" or go up and maybe try the 54lb 12v one that I have seen.

Thanks again everyone

Byron do you have any pics of the Gator spring mount installed on the boat? Did you have to drill additional holes for the Gator mount??

 

[Bill Willette]

So much for a plan!! I just went to see if I could tighten the screw that looked loose (front one in the plastic housing) there was a gap under the mount and look what came out:

The other one seems to still be attached, but it looks like I need to get moving on either replacing these screws (on a bent mount) or just get it done. I can't believe the screws got this corroded everything on the boat looks great. I guess where these two are located water can just sit in the mount around it - stainless steel with no air allowed to get to it - well it rusts!



I was looking at the new mgs and they have this Gator Flex 360 mount which is getting some really really bad reviews. Can anyone suggest a different one to buy??

 

[byron cooley]

I just put a bunch of pics in my library. The gator II mount accually has holes about every 1-1.5 inches and is the same bolt pattern width. I didn't like the new position so I drilled 2 new holes in the mount instead of the boat. There are 2 or 3 mounting locations that will line up without drilling. I got my mount on Ebay, new in the box for $61.00 so you might check there.

 

[TOMMY RICH]

I got lucky and found a Gator from someone here at NTOWS years back (can't remember...it's been so long ago) for $60...best money I've spent in awhile.

 

[Craig Roberts]

Pull the bow panel off (it's only 4-6 screws). It's the one with the trim button on it. There is enough room to get your hand up there (barely). If you have big hands, find a friend who has smaller hands, but it can be done. It looks something like this...

(It's (A) in the pic)

 

[Bill Willette]

Thanks for the pics Byron that looks great. Hey you have the same color on your 640 as mine. Looks like the only diff is the seats, mine are just one color.



I still continue to find bad reviews on the new MG Gator Flex 360 mount. There is supposedly a kit to fix it, but even after that the mount will not allow the prop to spin without hitting the deck. I haven't read a good thing about one yet, so I'll steer clear from them. So I'm thinking my options are:

1. Find a Gator spring mount, and then get any new MG that will fit that.

2. Ditch MG and buy a new Minnkota - does anyone like the maxxum motors? - the one thing I don't like is that it must be mounted to deck with no bushings, but thats about the only negative that I came up with (if it is one).

A few other questions here:

3. If I go MK, would the Maxxum 55 42" be a fit for the 640?

4. Anyone have an idea how to remove the headless bolt (I can still see it from the bottom), I was thinking maybe just hit it with a punch from above, but I'm worred about damaging the deck - I guess I could try turning it from below with the nut to see if that backs it out.

 

[Stan Tallant]

Bill I put a 74# Minn Kota Maxxum with a 42" shaft on my 640LX this spring and it rocks. Used the same holes as the stock MG. Even with the 42" shaft I have had the prop surface on real bad days.



Small neighborhood kids are great for installing trolling motors. I had one completely inside my rod locker holding the fender washers and nuts while I tightened the bolt with a cordless drill from the top. He thought it was an adventure and has asked several times since then if he can help me install anything inside the boat.

 

[Bill Willette]

Thanks stan, I've been looking around and I'm not real thrilled with the idea of buying a new MG motor and then also having to buy a different mount. I did not realize that buying a new spring mount is a $250-300 deal. The new MG's that have better mounts are the 24volt and up - I do plan on staying with 12v, I already have a charger mounted in the only available spot for a second tm battery. So I'm really starting to think about MK Maxxum at this point. It kinda sucks that MG is having problems with the new mount, because going with MG would mean I could repair the old one and have a spare. I was hoping to get out next week, but with only 3 bolts holding the motor I'll wait till I get something done.

 

[Bill Willette]

A little progress here. I had enough time tonite to get the old mount off. The screw that had the rusted head just required a little drilling to remove it.



Now my next problem. I'm back in the MG camp, but the old mount I had is some short odd ball type - only 11.25" distance between the front an rear holes. The gator mount is 14.25" between front and rear holes.



Do I re-drill the rear holes? If I do so, what is the best way to plug the unused holes? I'm not thrilled with this idea - making holes is fine, but I don't want to create problems with having unused holes that can create problems in the gel coat with water intrusion.



I doubt that I would be able to find a mount that has the 11.25" spacing, but if anyone knows of such a mount, let me know.