Prop Help - 1997 Nitro 700LX DC 75 HP Merc

[John Lowe]

I bought this boat which has a Ballistic stainless prop. The guy said it was a 22 or 23 pitch. The boat runs well but somewhat slow out of the hole, especially with a load. It will turn 5500 rpm, but I don't run it that way. Just wondered if anyone had similar set up & what prop you use. Thanks.

 

[tightline 700lx]

I am no expert like some of the guys on this site but I had a 2001 700lx with a 90hp and ran a 21p balistic tip prop. Never had a problem geting out of the hole with that setup but I had a hydrofoil. Alot of guys will bless you up one side and down another for metioning hydrofoil on this site but I think it might not hurt you since you are in the smaller hp range.



To realy be of good assistance most people are going to want to know your real numbers like prop diameter/pitch, rpm, mph, type of load, motor height, etc.



To find the numbers on your ballistic prop you have to take it off. The numbers will be on the back side...

 

[byron cooley]

Something is not right here - There is no way a 75hp will turn a 22 or 23 pitch to 5500 rpm on that boat, maybe on a 12' tin it could. Check your tach, it might be off some. I run a 640LX with a tweaked 75 Opti thats just over 90hp and barely hit 5600 with a 22" Laser II.

 

[joseph currier]

the rigging specs for a 2003 700 LX (thats as far as my records go back)

are that boat with a 75hp call for a 12.5X23 PN#93277. alu. prop

byron dia, and cup, and rake . are also part of the equation not just pitch.

 

[byron cooley]

From my experience and most that I have talked with - the factory rigging charts are way off.

 

[TOMMY RICH]

They are off for sure....what diameter is the prop? That also makes a big diff.

 

[joseph currier]

my experiance is different than you both.

if you are looking for all around proformance hole shot,handleing , speed , ecomony,

least slip. then the factory is correct almost all the time.

if your only concern is top end speed and nothing else then your hole set up needs adjusting from engine hight, on to prop, to weight dist.

it's all in what you want to accomplish.

the factory recomends the prop and hight that will give all around good proformance.

it's how they designed the boat to function, so.... it's in there best intrest to have the most customers happy not just the speed guys.

sorry but the factory is doing what is best for the most pepole.

includeing their laywers who have to defend agianst the fool who props his boat wrong and either blows up his motor or kills someone by driving to fast for that hull.

by all means put on the fastest prop you can find but saying the factory is wrong is just plain foolish.

 

[TOMMY RICH]

Say what you want but, they were wrong on mine

 

[Dan J.]

Factory rigging specs are done under nominal conditions. Once more weight is added and particularly where, the conditions can change dramatically. I've found boats are like fingerprints. Each one a hair different to another dependent on load, time of year, etc. There is just no one perfect wheel for any hull. If you are trying to dedicate one single prop on the engine the best that can be done is an average that will sacrifice all around or at least one end of the spectrum. (holeshot, top end, handling) I had winter and summer props for several hulls and have had a few B&B'ed. Even so, when a full fuel tank, livewells full, partner added, rainy day with carpeted deck, etc....the conditions change and you'll feel it at the wheel each time. Nothing's perfect, but the factory specs are trying for a generic, all around use on the particular application. It's up to the end user to decide what's best for them. Start at the factory recommended and then, with the help of a good dealer or prop shop, spin a few wheels one day and see what is best for you. Good luck.

 

[joseph currier]

amen dan! perfectly said.

 

[John Lowe]

Thanks guys.