Photos: Garmin 240 on a TV-18

[Mark Hofman]

I finally got the digital camera and wanted to post pictures showing the installation of my new Garmin 240 Fishfinder. I'll do it in sequence from the battery compartment forward. I don't have my HTML editor program installed on this computer, but when I can I'll put it all together for a Grab Bag article.



This is the first shot showing the battery compartment. The arrows point to the red and black wires, which were part of a 4-gang cable. I didn't use the other two wires, but they're still there in case I ever need to run power to an additional accessory up front.

 

[Mark Hofman]

From the battery, I ran the cables right along side the rest of the electrical wires and the throttle cables, up through a hole behind the driver's seat.



The tricky part was working this cable up behind the side panel where the throttle was mounted, through the tangle of wires and cables, to a spot where it could exit into the right front storage locker. The solution was to tape the 4-gang cable to a wire coat hanger that I straightened out. The coat hanger was long enough to get the wire up thorugh a hole near the fuse box, where I could fish it out. Then I re-threaded the coat hanger back through that hole underneath the dashboard, and then through the hole between the console and the rod locker.

 

[Mark Hofman]

This shot (below) is inside the starboard rod locker, facing AFT toward the driver's console. You can see the red cable exiting into the locker itself, right alongside the shrouded wires leading up to the bow panel. Inside the black shroud are the wires for the power trim/tilt switch and the bow navigation lights.

 

[Mark Hofman]

I cable-tied the 4-gang wire to the shroud up as far forward as I could reach. At that point, I disassembled the bow panel to gain access to below the bow deck.



I ran the power leads from the unit itself up over the front edge of the bow deck, and using the coat hanger as a hook, pulled them back to the rod locker. There, I used crimp connectors and electrical tape to complete the power connection. Then, I pulled on the unit power cable to draw the red 4-gang cable back up toward the bow to straighten it out. Since I couldn't reach up to cable tie it, you can see how it dangles down a bit.

 

[Mark Hofman]

Now, with the bow panel removed, I chose a location for the micro-R.A.M. ball mount. Marking the aluminum from behind with a pencil, I drilled three holes and used stainless screws, washers and lock washers to mount the ball to the bow panel. Using flat black enamel model paint, I painted the heads of the screws to blend with the color of the mount itself.

 

[Mark Hofman]

It is necessary to remove a plastic backing plate off the Garmin 240 in order to use the R.A.M. mount. The plastic backing plate is necessary if you use the standard gimbal mount that comes with the unit, but I wanted to be able to reposition the display in 3-axis. The gimbal mount only allows you to tilt the display.



With the backing plate removed, you use the bolts included with the R.A.M. mount (available from the Garmin website for $39.99) to mount a metal backing plate. This has a second ball, and a tension arm attaches to both balls. This is what the backing plate and the tension arm looks like mounted to the unit.

 

[Greg Meyer]

Mo nice install... One thing I have used extensively are "distribution bolocks" and the one heavy wire from the battery... This winter when I installed the new rear deck I also installed Marinco TM plug (male) on short cables to each battery then the female sockets were installed ahead of distribution blocks. So, if I want to disconnect a battery it a "twist" and unplug...very handy to change/swap a dead starting battery for a good TM battery in a pinch...no need for jumper cables...

 

[Mark Hofman]

I chose to run both the power/transducer cable and the separate trolling motor transducer cable out from around the edges of the bow panel rather than drill additional holes. There was a specific reason for doing this that you'll see below. The cables running to the display comes out the starboard side. The cable running to the transducer puck comes out the port side (out of view here). The transducer cable connects to the display cable behind the bow panel. This done, I reattached the bow plate.

 

[Mark Hofman]

Greg, I'll respond to that in a minute. I've got about three more photos to post. Sorry.

 

[Mark Hofman]

When the display unit is disconnected, I can gently shove the cable up into a "stored" position very nearly out of sight. It's off any wet carpet and protected from dust and rain.



The cable from the TM to the transducer also is "adjustable" and I can either pull out or stow any extra cable to keep things neat and tidy whether the TM is stowed or deployed.

 

[Mark Hofman]

With everything installed, it was time to see if I had done it right. Pushed the power switch, and on she came. Ran it in simulator mode to check functions and it all worked as advertised.

 

[Mark Hofman]

By a simple twist of the tension handle, I can adjust the angle and height of the display, or even drop it so that it rests on the deck for travel in rough water. The micro-R.A.M. mount, though, is VERY secure. I really like having the ability to move the display closer toward the center of the bow panel, or off to the starboard side if it gets in the way.

 

[Andrew Zuber]

nice job (as always) MO!

spotted another difference between our boats...

different switch for the aerator up front...

mine has a 'rubberized' toggle switch...I like yours better, I've 'accidentally' turned mine on by dragging something across it...had to add it to the checklist when parking the boat...don't want to burn the motor or run the battery down...

Tracker making continuous improvements!

good stuff,

az

 

[Mark Hofman]

Final picure. Here is the entire setup. You can barely see the transducer cable coming out on the port side, just underneath the bright aluminum gunwale. It goes behind the bow panel and comes out next to the power cables and attaches to the back of the unit.



Garmin is even thoughtful enough to include a handy-dandy display cover to protect the face of the unit.



All told, it took about two hours to get everything done. The final step was to attach crimp post connectors for the battery connections and tape everything up nice and tight.



The unit has a 2-amp inline fuse that I can access via the rod locker. If it blows, I simply pull the red-4 gang until I can reach the connector, change the fuse, and then pull on the power/transducer cable to straighten everything back out. I didn't have to run power through the fuse block, or connect to another accessory, so the unit is "clean" with no interference from anything.



That's it. Questions or comments are welcome!

 

[Mark Hofman]

Greg, that's a GREAT idea! I'll have to look into doing that, or running some kind of connection under the back deck to hook to the TM battery in case my cranking battery goes dead. The other idea I had for power was to mount a small gel battery (Cabela's has a rechargable 12-volt you can use with a portable depth finder) up in the front storage bin. But I decided that was more trouble than it was worth.

 

[Mark Hofman]

Andy, where is the rubberized aerator switch? If you're talking about the two buttons on the bow panel, those are for the trim/tilt on the main motor. One makes the outboard go up, the other makes it go down.



Hmmmm...a switch on the bow panel to run the aerator pump...



Could that be my NEXT project????

 

[Andrew Zuber]

OK...maybe I can't see straight...

I have those two switches as well (tilt and trim)...but it looks like you have a rocker switch between those switches and your trolling motor socket...???

Or is that something else?

The aerator switch does come in handy...but, like I said, I kind of wish it was a rocker so I wouldn't accidently turn it on...



az

 

[Mark Hofman]

Oh, no, sorry. That black patch is actually two squares of velcro. I've got a digital clock that has the fuzzy female velcro on the back. I can stick that clock up there in cold weather so that I don't have to peel gloves and coats and sweatshirts back to see my watch. My fishin' buddies are sticklers about being back at an agreed-upon time for lunch (or dinner), or the eat without you and you get no food.



When the clock is not in use, I either put it in the glove box, or stick it on the driver's side dash board.

 

[Andrew Zuber]

Ah HA!

So, I might not have an "fancy safety strap" that came with my boat....

but I have an aerator switch!



LOL



az

 

[Andrew Zuber]

Nice pics MO...I mounted a compass on my dash right where your clock is...

I don't have a clock mounted in the boat...usually I don't want to know what time it is when I'm fishing...for fun that is...I keep a watch in one of the rod lockers so that I don't miss weigh-in at the club tournaments...



az

 

[Mark Hofman]

Yeah, it really would be nice to be able to switch the aerator pump from manual to auto without leaving the front fishing station. That really is a good idea. I wish they hadn't have changed it then.

 

[Andrew Zuber]

MO-

My switch runs a separate, recirc-aerator pump...not the same one that the switch on the dash runs...up front switch just circulates the water that is in the livewell and whips some air into it...During the summer tournaments, I'd have BOTH the recirc and the normal pump in auto to keep the fish alive...



az

 

[Mark Hofman]

A compass? I guess on St. Clair and those big lakes you do need some kind of directional indicator. We don't get out of sight of shore, so I don't have one mounted. I do carry an old backpacking compass, just in case it gets foggy or for after dark.



Here's another dream project. Garmin makes a really nice sized GPS unit (GPSMAP 176) that I could mount where the Humminbird is. Then I could mount the 'bird somewhere on the back deck for my partner to use!

 

[Andrew Zuber]

That would be sweet!

I mounted the compass before I took the boat to Kentucky Lake...like you said, for FOG! Had been there once before and got "socked-in"...wasn't fun...

It's a nice compass...not lighted, but it folds down when I'm not using it (most of the time).

So, no recirc pump on that TV-18? Maybe Tracker had to eliminate it to pay for the beefed up transom? hahahahaha



az

 

[Mark Hofman]

Yeah, right!!!



Hey, did you see my other "innovation"? I picked up a faux aluminum carabineer and attached it to my kill switch lanyard. It's that blue piece of aluminum on the steering wheel in the picture of the console. I got it off of a key chain, and you can find them at Home Depot in the checkout lanes.



Boy, does THAT thing make hooking up to your PFD easy! I hate those little metal hook on the lanyard, especially when it's cold and you're wearin' gloves.

 

[Andrew Zuber]

For sure...

Isn't 'customizing' fun?

Like I've heard so many times before...



A boat is hole in the water in which you place money!



I bought two packs of powerworms today on clearance...I know I won't get to use them 'til next spring...

gotta buy, buy, buy!!!



az

 

[Mark Hofman]

Gonna sign off in a minute or two. But I wanted to let you know that I snapped a couple of photos of my stern caps to compare with your riveted ones. And, after I wash the boat, trailer and cover off tomorrow I'll take a full-on shot of the stern so you (and others) can see the difference in the design from 2000 to 2001.



As a teaser, I was amazed at how much larger the welded stern caps are than the riveted ones. You'll be able to tell by the location of the Perko stern light plug. They didn't relocate it from one year to the next.

 

[Bruce Yeaton]

Looks good Mo!!

I'm stealing that velcro clock idea! I use my old pager as a clock and it always falls off the windshield!

Andy - Mo doesn't have the recirc switch like we do, but you answered your own question in a way...just install a rocker type switch in place of the rubber toggle. I too have bumped that before and spent quite some time looking for the culprit responsible for running the pump!!!

I like Mo's acc switches better! they have a nice round visible area to light up if power is on!

 

[Marke Cicero]

Mo, YOU ROCK!!!!! You do such an awesome job on everything you install!!! You should start a little side business. Unbelievable!!! Please get this project into the grab bag. I just bought a Garmin GPS Map 76 and a Ram mount for the dash. I won't be as nice as yours, but I'll post pics of the install. I'll be doing the same exact project before spring.



Oh, by the way....Nice digital camera too.



Marke

 

[JEFF WHITE]

who needs a clock with the gps?they,well,mine has a clock and alarm in it.never loose mine where it is!



nice install.

 

[Mark Hofman]

Unfortunately, unlike Marke and many of the rest of you, I don't have a GPS unit yet. The clock was one of the first modifications I made, since my first fishing trip with the boat was over Super Bowl Weekend 2002.



By the way, my boat's first birthday was TODAY! One year ago today, we brought her home from BPS Springfield.

 

[Jeff Griffeth]

Hey, great job. I was going to comment on your lanyard switch aluminum carabineer. I noticed that right off. I really, really like that idea. Was at Menard's today. Guess I'll have to go back....

 

[Mark Hofman]

For those of you who have seen these photos, I need some advice in putting the Grab Bag article together. What details have I left out? Would you want to see any additional pictures in the article or have I pretty much covered it with these?



Thanks!