Bunker/Roller question

[Mister Hooper]

I own a 17' aluminum bass boat that I trailer with a Trailstar trailer. The trailer currently has 10' carpeted wooden bunkers. I'm considering installing rollers on the trailer.



It seems that replacement rollers come in 4 or 5 foot sections. Do I need to replace the entire 10 (20) feet or can I simply replace 5 feet with rollers and leave the rest as carpeted wood ? When the trailer is in the water at the launch most of the boat doesn't touch the bunkers until the trailer/boat is yanked out of the water.



I realize that I need to maintain a consistent height so the boat doesn't rock while being trailered.



Thanks guys.

 

[Bill Hamilton]

Mister Hooper - I would NOT spend the money on replacing the bunks with rollers. It is a costly situation. If you are having problems launching or loading your boat on the bunks I would add glideslicks to the bunks. I have a fiberglass boat with glideslicks and they are great. Go to BPS or Cabela's and take a look at them. Much cheaper, easier to install and work great. Has no impact on aluminum UNLESS your boat is riveted. They do not recommend them for riveted boats. Take a look and let us know what you think.

 

[Kenny Guess]

bill, I was going to add them to my bunks. If you are on a steep launch, will the boat tend to slid down before you are ready? Seems I read that once but not sure. And if you use the glide sticks, can you do away with the carpet since the boat actually sits on the plastic glide sticks? thanks, kenny

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

I can guaranteeeeeee you the boat will slide off on a steep or even a not so steep ramp with the sticks. NEVER take your bow strap off till you are in the water and ALWAYS hook it up before you start up the ramp when retrieving. Why would you want to do away with your carpet? IMHO that would look nasty with just bare wood!!:lol::lol:



TOXIC

 

[Kenny Guess]

There is an issue with the new 'treated lunber' and aluminum so I did away with it and went with pine, untreated 2x4's. When the carpet is wet and sits that way for a while it will rot the wood so I am thinking, use the glides, remove the carpet and the wood dries fast and less chance for rot.

 

[TOMMY RICH]

That's why I only carpet my bunks on the tops and sides...none underneath. Water won't rot them as quick.

I like my boat secure until it hits the water.

 

[Bill Hamilton]

While I don't have problems with the boat sliding off I only put the glideslicks on the rear bunks so I have never that issue although I have heard other people who have. I agree that they would look strange on wood but would assume they would work. If you decide to go with rollers you need to be even MORE careful about launching without the strap attached.



My opinion is go with the glideslicks but leave the harness attached until you have backed the trailer in the water. For what it's worth.

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

And to make sure your bow is tied off eh William?!?!?



TOXIC

 

[TritonGlenn]

Hmmm... I have an idea....



Why not use some of that newer composite material that they now sell to build decks? That recycled-plastic type board that looks like real wood, doesn't absorb water, needs no maintenance, etc...? I know of a few that I've looked at for actually building a deck - Weatherbest, Trex Decking, CorrectDeck, etc... but can't remember which ones were pure no-wood, and which ones had wood fibers in them. I saw one that was pretty much just all recyled plastic. Probably have to put two of the 1x6's together and then rip two inches off with a table saw to make a 2x4, but it would probably outlast the trailer and boat. :lol:



All the best,

Glenn

 

[Mike Zechman]

My dad has used the composite decking stuff on his tracker, or you can check here



http://www.easternmarine.com/

 

[TOMMY RICH]

I've heard the plastic doesn't support like the wood?:unsure:

 

[Jeff R.]

I've heard some bad things about using the composite material for bunks. You might want to do some research before you try that stuff.

 

[Gene B]

The composite decking is not as stiff as wood. It will expand and contract a lot more than wood too. If you put the guideslicks on bare wood you will trap some water between the wood and the slicks. That could lead to decay there.



Gene

 

[Kenny Guess]

After reading the comments, maybe the way to go is to use 'pressure treated' wood, carpet the top/sides and use glide sticks-then the aluminum never makes contact with the treated wood thus avoiding chemical reaction. Comments.....?

 

[TOMMY RICH]

Just use regular 2X4's and treat them with a couple of coats of good waterproofer like Thompsons and others. I have better luck that way and another thing I found is..treated wood is always warped to hell and back. Not carpeting the bottom will save your boards.

Another trick I do is predrill the lag bolt holes and fill them up with silicone before tightening

 

[David Kohler]

There is a better option for replacing your bunk boards for an aluminum boat. Check out the ultimate bunk boards at ultimatebunkboards.com. They make loading and unloading your boat easy. As a matter of fact, too easy! Do not and I repeat do not undue your winch strap or else your boat will be left laying on the ramp!



These come in almost any length and aren't that expensive and will last longer than you will have your boat.



Check 'em out, they made my life a lot easier!



Dave