Battery Lesson Learned

[Tim Koepp]

I knew better, but forgot to consider............





Just because your charging system indicates a battery is fully charged, and you test, for example, your trolling motor by flipping it on and running through the speeds quickly, does not truly reflect the health of your battery.



did all the above, got out on the lake in more than a mild breeze, and had a dead trolling motor battery after less than 5 minutes.



A complete battery test that evening indicated a dead cell. Not uncommon.

 

[Mark Jaworski]

Dont feel lonely, I had the same issue with one of my Batt's. Both showed green got to the river my 24v TM was working like a 12v TM. Not good!!



But they replaced the batt for free



Mark

 

[Corey Carrico]

Definitly not alone. I did the same thing a couple years ago. It was the first trip of the season and I pulled up on a windblown rock wall. Quickly put the TM down and on high speed to stay off the rocks...it worked for a couple minutes then went to about 25% power immediately. I learned a hard lesson and lost some fiberglass in the process.

 

[Jeff Daubert]

Been there. Done that!

 

[Dan J.]

Not that this is/was the case with any of the above situations (more of a heads-up FYI), but I can't count how many boats I've seen or come in for service with a "bad" battery or charger, only to find it has a blown fuse or popped breaker on the charger. Many well known name brand charging mfr.'s have a fuse in the battery lead(s) or a breaker reset on the unit. They also tend to show a green light or full charge status with the fuse blown. (Or with fuse in hand staring at the charger's green light thinking, "Whiskey Tango Foxtrot???" :lol: ) Definitely check your batteries, (fluid levels and acid content by hydrometer) without load testing, if possible. Load testers eat batteries or at least greatly shorten the life cycle. Chargers are easier. If a bank/battery is suspect on a multi-charger, switch the leads around and compare results. On a single bank and/or suspect battery, go back to the battery check above and a simple voltmeter to ensure the voltage. (A hot battery should be about 12.75V or more to be considered good to go.) The last thing to check before exchange or shelling out for new is the load test. Just my opinion from what I've seen.

 

[Jim B]

Guys take a look at the link below. It outlines testing, charging and watering for batteries. What is on this page would apply to any flooded lead acid battery not just trojan brand.
http://www.trojanbattery.com/Tech-Support/BatteryMaintenance.aspx