Quickleen

[XMYTRUCK XMYTRUCK]

Hello

I just wanted to know if you guys are using quickleen and it it worth using it? I had some carb issues this year basically the float was stuck due to some debris.

Thanks

X

 

[Larry Harp]

I use Quickleen every time I add gas. I have an Optimax so carbon build up is a serious concern... not so much with a carb motor but still a good idea to keep everything clean.

 

[Jim C]

From my experience, it makes a noticeable difference. When I first got my Opti, I used it religiously. Then I started to slack off. Started idling rough and not as smooth on acceleration. Started using it again and she was purring. Slacked off another time or two and same the story. I even ran a full bottle through my truck at 150k miles and it must have got those injectors cleaner than the typical car injector cleaners I regularly used. Very noticeable difference there also. The price though??? :wacko:

 

[XMYTRUCK XMYTRUCK]

What I don't get is that I always use 91 or 93 oct gas and only twice in three years have I filled my tank at a marine twice in three years so I baffled how my carb got fouled. I know that mercury states that E-10 can be used with any model built after 2002.



Thanks

X



Ps. Just went to the local marine store and picked up a bottle.. Do U guys use quick silver Quickleen and or mercury quickleen ?

 

[Jim C]

Same thing. They did some labeling switch a while ago and there's oil and additives with different labels still out there.



Was it debris or coagulated oil/fuel? It's real common to get water in gas from a station or to get it in the tank from a bad thru-hull vent. Water will foul up a carb very quickly!

 

[Larry Harp]

Hey X, try a water separating fuel filter. I installed one myself on my old PT-185... no big deal.



I also had an incident with "gummed" up carbs on that boat. I paid around $225 or $250 for three carbs to be overhauled. The second trip to the lake the motor started having the same problem. I went back to the dealer and he gave me a new fuel bulb and told me to try that. I did and it fixed it. So I figure it was the bulb all along. You might try a new bulb, they're cheap and they do go bad.



The water separator will give you some peace of mind. You can't always control where you get your gas.
http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/s...1_45681_200002005_200000000_200002000_200-2-5

 

[Dan J.]

Quickleen (Mercury/Quicksilver are the same) is the best thing you can do for your outboard. (IMHO) Ethanol is one of the worst things you can do. (Alcohol increases condensation in your tank and increases corrosion.) Install an in-line water seperating fuel filter ASAP. $20-$30 tops and the best investment you can make to a marine powerplant. (Water in the combustion chamber turns to rapidly expanding steam on ignition and will blow your piston and/or connecting rod. If you're lucky, it will only remove the carbon build up from the cylinder walls/dome and seize the piston. Either way it is, "a berry, berry bad ting!!") Also, unless your owner's manual states different, you should be running 87 octane. The lower the octane number, the hotter the burn and the cleaner your cylinders will stay. H/O motors like XS and XB series need the higher octane for their setup. Everyone else should be 87 octane, unless yours states differently. (It would be news to me if it did.) Marine Stabil with the ethanol treatment every tank is HIGHLY RECOMENDED!! Good luck!

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

And.....If your motor is rated for 87 octane DO NOT burn higher octane fuel in it. That alone could be the cause of most of your problems. Contrary to popular belief, higher octane gas has a higher flash point, lower octane will ignite faster. If you run high octane, you are pushing unburned fuel and risk carbon build up as well as detonation which will toast your motor. The reason some motors need high octane is the higher compression ratios. If they burned lower octane, they would have the same problem that a 87 octane motor would have burning priemum.



TOXIC

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

Dang...Dan beat me to the punch!!:lol::lol:



TOXIC

 

[Carlos Hathcock III]

you type too slow

 

[XMYTRUCK XMYTRUCK]

Thanks Guys,

I will start running 87 again, as for the water separating fuel filter I saw one at west marine yesterday it looked like a big funnel and you pour the gas in when you are filling up what do you think of that worth the money? or should I have my dealer install perment water separating fuel filter? http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/59249?srccode=cii_13736960&cpncode=17-9337932-2

I think most of my issue started when I got my tune up this year the fuel filter was installed backwards. Also can I install a water separating fuel filter if already have a fuel filter? Sorry for the rookie question..:lol::lol:

Thx

X

 

[XMYTRUCK XMYTRUCK]

Sorry another qucik question can I use quickleen and stabil Ethanol treatment at the sametime?



Thx

X



Ps. this broad rules

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

In my life, my wife is the broad that rules!!!:lol::lol:



I don't think there would be a problem running both but you need to know if you need them both. I only use Merc fuel treatment and stabilizer. They now offer a product that is just stabilizer also. I don't like dumping any more stuff in my gas/oil/etc. than necessary. My thoughts on the filter are that I personally would prefer the in line type. The way I look at it, when you are filling your tank, you are pushing a lot of fuel through and past the filter. The motor mounted ones pull your fuel through them at your feed rate offering more time to filter out the gunk and water. Mine has a sensor on the bottom that I assume will set off a warning if it gets clogged or full of water, it has never gone off. I just went out today and pulled it to see if there was any H20 in it and as far as I could tell there wasn't. Never has been but I dump it once a year just to make sure.



TOXIC

 

[Larry Harp]

X, take a look at the filter I posted the link for. It's the same one I had on my PT-185. Anybody can install it in less than an hour. If you have a dealer do it you'll end up spending $200 for a $21.99 filter. It's really nothing to install with a crescent wrench and a screwdriver. I'll talk you through it. Then all you have to do is change the spin on filter once a year.

 

[Dan J.]

Ditto Harpo.



Cut your fuel line, slide and clamp one end on each corresponding side of the filter head fuel barbs, zip in a couple mounting screws with some RTV, spin on the filter and go. If it comes completely unassembled make sure you use teflon tape or a thread lock like Loc-tite when installing the fuel barbs and plugs. This small step will save a lot of headache down the road. Good luck!

 

[XMYTRUCK XMYTRUCK]

Thx SooonerFan and Dan and tox and everyone

The only thing that freaks me out is cutting into that gas line and getting everything back together, don't get me wrong I am a handy guy. SpoonerFan do you also have an in-line fuel filter installed in the motor also? Any chance that filter is also blocks water also? I am going to take a ride to BPS and check them out. I notice that BPS also had these

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&partNumber=82981&hvarTarget=search&cmCat=SearchResults



and



http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_16085?cmCat=CROSSSELL&cmid=PP_P2_1

 

[Dan J.]

Apples and oranges.



A canister type, water seperating fuel filter not only keeps water from your outboard, it filters the incoming fuel at a level that the "cheese cloth" type you referenced will never be able to do. They're cheap/cheaper because they do a minimal job at best. I guess any filtration is better than none, but when I splice a filter into one of my boats it's always a canister type water seperator. V6 and 4 stroke Mercs have a small one piggy-backed on the powerhead, but again, not at the flow and capacity of a canister. $20 out of pocket, 30 min., and a lot less worry for a very long time. If simply cutting the fuel line to splice in a filter "freaks" you out, you may want to have someone a little more handy do this install or supervise. It is very simple and straightforward. Calling it easy doesn't describe how easy it actually is. Good luck!

 

[XMYTRUCK XMYTRUCK]

Thanks Dan

I will give it a shot, know I need to find room in the 165 to mount the fuel filter..



thx

x

 

[Tim King]

I don't know what broad he is talking about, but I think this board also rules!!:lol::lol: Sorry X, I just couldn't resist the easy shot. Good info though, thanks for the post.

Is this Quickleen llike a fuel injector cleaner or can you use a regular injector cleaner like Valvoline?





Tim

 

[Larry Harp]

Ps. this broad rules

Hmmmmm, must be a Hilliary supporter.



X, I now have an Optimax. The water seperating fuel filter is built onto the motor. It's a spin on as well just a smaller canister than the aftermarket one in the picture.



As far as splicing in the filter it's as simple as taking your pocket knife and cutting the line. You may get some gas on your hands. Then sticking the two hose ends onto the barb ends of the filter and tighten down the clamp.. There are arrows directing you how to do it. I mounted mine on a brace on the transom. Really no big deal at all.



It looks like this....



1. gas tank ___________________________________________________________________big motor



2. gas tank _______________________ X ___________________________________big motor



3. gas tank_________________________>[filter]>_________________________________big motor





One tip, be sure to fill the new filter with some gas, otherwise it will be difficult to pump up your bulb.

 

[TritonGlenn]

When the ethenol scare started coming out about outboards, I called Mercury and emailed them - same response for both. Mercs were already ahead of the game, and the ethenol didn't present a problem. I was told my Opti already had a water seperator and that an external canister type was neither necessary, nor recommended. They went on to tell me about the canister type "starving" the motor of fuel, etc, etc, etc... but told me I was fine "as is".



All the best,

Glenn

 

[TritonGlenn]

Here ya go... straight from Mercury:



This should pretty much answer all of your questions on Ethanol.



Mercury Marine remains very active in developing a thorough understanding of important issues and environments in which our products must operate. Mercury

 

[XMYTRUCK XMYTRUCK]

It looks like this....



1. gas tank ___________________________________________________________________big motor



2. gas tank _______________________ X ___________________________________big motor



3. gas tank_________________________>[filter]>_________________________________big motor

Thanks for the help I should note that I don't have a big motor, I have 25 HP 4 stroke.I went to BPS today and one of the sales guys stated with a small motor that I could starve the motor.



tritonglenn is your filter an inline?



thx

x

 

[TritonGlenn]

I didn't add one - it's on the engine already. I'm not absolutely sure if the smaller outboards are the same with the water seperating filter, but I'm pretty sure they are.

All the best,

Glenn

 

[Dan J.]

The piggy-back filter referenced above on Merc V6 and optimax are half canister types that are engine mounted. Same type, smaller capacity, that has been described over, and over, and..... Any additional filter can "possibly" restrict the flow. You need one that is at a feed level greater than your system requirement. Moeller, Land-N-Sea, Perko, Mercury (yep, the same people referenced above sell a "recomended" in line water-seperating fuel filter. LOL!) and BPS plain label all are filters that exceed the minimum, just to name a few. (The BPS is a Merc compatible match. The parts, i.e: filter can, will interchange.)



I've ran, blown, R&D'd and tested numerous Merc powerplants and almost everyone rigged by the support crew with factory techs included a 85GPH min. canister type water-seperating, in-line fuel filter. Call the Hi-Perf division in Fon Du Lac and you can get the word from the techs that build, blow and rebuild these things day in and day out. The rate that the canister allows is higher than your lil' motor can draw it through the picup screen in the tank. Adding one of those cheap, in-line cheese cloth type filters will restrict the flow, slightly.



Just a word of advice; if you have a technical question, ask a service tech at BPS or any other qualified Merc dealer. Not to "dis" a salesman, but if I want to know something about my prostate, I'm not gonna ask the guy selling Prep H to the Dr.'s office. :lol:



P.S. You should be able to prime your canister filter without filling with gas and trying to screw that in place. If you are trying to prime and the canister will not fill or the ball won't prime to hard, you have a leak or bypass somewhere in the system. Check all fittings and seals for leaks and/or air draw. It doesn't take much of a breach/bypass to suck air in and not push fuel. Good luck1

 

[Dan J.]

The smaller motors are not the same. Under the cowling you should see a similar clear cheesecloth insert type that you keep wanting to add in-line. The water seperating type are on V6 and larger 4 strokes.

 

[TritonGlenn]

So... anyone want to buy some Prep H???

All the best,

Glenn

 

[Dan J.]

Uuuh...Glenn, if you read his post and my reply, you'll note that my suggestion was not to decipher info from the BPS salesman consulted, but the tech in the service dept. (There should be at least one with the four minimum necessary Merc School diplomas to hold a Platinum Level in Merc's dealer network.) Nothing aimed at you or I'd do it by name. You c&p'ed some great cursory info that every Merc owner should read thoroughly and digest.



But if you do have some extra Prep H, I'd take some for a Lutefisk sandwich to make it more tolerable!:lol:

 

[Larry Harp]

X, I really didn't mean "big motor" in reference to the size of your motor, just to reference to the gas motor as opposed to the trolling motor. Sorry for the confusion. I can't imagine that a fuel filter would starve a smaller hp motor and not a bigger hp motor. I had mine installed on my old 50 hp and it worked just fine. Since I'm no expert on this subject I'm going to back out... I sure wouldn't want to give you any misinformation.



Dan J. , When I did my add-on water separating filter, I found it much easier to pump up with a little gas in the filter than trying to pump all that air through the fuel system Where I had it located on the transom, it was no problem to put a cup of gas to prime it and screw it on. I didn't have a leak either.

 

[Dan J.]

Harpo-I agree with you totally. Priming the canister empty will take a long time and give a hand cramp like nothing else!! I've done the same as you, but was hesitant recomending it to a novice. Once completed, the system should hold a full, firm ball for hours w/o the fuel punp on. If not holding firm for 30 min. minimum, check fittings, o-rings on couplers and primer ball for leaks or bypass. That thing will suck air a lot easier than fuel and leave a boater floating and cursing, chasing a ghost in the middle of the lake. (At least that was my first education on the subject as a kid years ago on KY Lake.:angry: )



As far as you not being an expert, you've been there, done that and got the t-shirt. That's good enough for me. You and Glenn have both given great info, advice and instruction. I agree with X that this "broad" rules!! :lol:

 

[XMYTRUCK XMYTRUCK]

Hello Guys

Thanks Dan I did not take what the sales person to heart, I agree with you totally when you need advice you go to two places, service or nitroowners.com

The smaller motors are not the same. Under the cowling you should see a similar clear cheesecloth insert type that you keep wanting to add in-line. The water seperating type are on V6 and larger 4 strokes.

I am not sure what you meant by cheesecloth insert type?



Thx

x

 

[Dan J.]

The type you referenced before.



http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10151&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&partNumber=82981&hvarTarget=search&cmCat=SearchResults



They're small, prescription bottle size with a fine plastic screen or a paper filament that will strain the larger particles until plugged or a rip appears, defeating their purpose entirely. Your engine mounted filter does this intended job fine. If you are splicing in a filter, the water-seperating canister type is the only way to go.

 

[XMYTRUCK XMYTRUCK]

Got yea losing my memory...

thanks again.

 

[Larry Harp]

ttt