Question for you motor guys......

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Mike M

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I have a 2001 90 ELPTO (OT317085) on my 2001 NX750. Had an issue yesterday where the warning siren (constant beep) came on and would not go off. PSI is normal and I have a good strong pee stream when running. Oil tank is 3/4 full. In fact, I even get the siren with the key in the on position without the motor running (cold engine). While heading up lake yesterday it started beeping solid and would not quit. Fortunately, all went well getting back to the ramp with some help. Before I take it in to get it looked at, I thought I would post on here and see if anybody has an idea of what I could check or fix myself to avoid a trip to the local mechanic.



Thanks in advance for the help.
 
I had a 'siren' problem with my Evinrude on my Stratos a few years ago. It turned out to be the ignition switch. It was internally shorting out and caused me all type of havoc until I accidently found it. Something to at least think about.



Tex
 
I did get under the dash and checked all the wiring to the ignition switch. Thought I might have found the issue as one of the screws was loose. Tightened them all up but alarm still goes off.

 
Hey wait a minute....have you ever replaced your ignition switch from the factory?

I believe (if I'm not mistaken) that Tracker had a recall or something on the ignition switch cuz they sent me a new one not long after I bought my 02'.

I 'm pretty sure I replaced it cuz it had instructions and new seals.
 
Not sure if it has been replaced. Boat has only been in my family since 2006. My Dad bought it used and had it in Illinois for a couple years and then I bought it from him and now it's with me in Arizona.
 
My problem was NOT the wiring, but inside the ignition switch itself. I found it as I was trying to 'find it' up under the dash with my hand. While grabbing it, the alarm went off. I removed it and could move of of the contacts and make it sound the alarm.



This is something that just started happening (infrequently at first) one day when on a trip to the lake. I had several mechanics/technicans try to find it to no avail.



Tex
 
+2 or 3..LOL. Start at the ignition switch. Go OEM {Merc} and wire in accordingly. Let us know the outcome and we'll take it from there. ;)
 
Thank you very much. I will get me a new ignition switch and install it. Then go from there.
 
Changing the ignition switch didn't solve the issue. :(



Wondering what else I can do myself before I have to take it in.
 
Need to verify the "constant beep". Is it a "beep-beep-beep......" or is it one continuous, irritating BEEEEEEEPPPPPP.

1. If it is the "beep-beep-beep......" {signifies an oil injection issue}

a. Unplug the two wires under the oil tank, see if the alarm stops.

b. Unplug the purple wire going to the little black box near the electricals. This would be your oil injection alarm module. See if it stops.

2. If it is the long tone: {signifies the overheat circuit}

a. Unplug the tan wire going to the sensor mounted under the number one spark plug, see if it stops.



Let us know.....;)



 
Constant beep. Have unplugged the tan / blue stripe wire to the sensor on the head. Still get continuous alarm. Could it really be the alarm module?
 
Yes, I have seen a few "bad ones". There should be a test for it, I can check for you Monday.
 
Thank you very much. I am going to stop by the marine parts store since it's on the way to work and see how much one is. Can't be that expensive. Besides, I can take back the switch I bought since that didn't fix the issue.
 
Couldn't get the alarm module. They don't stock them. The dealer I am talking with insists that it is a short somewhere. And it could very well have to do with the oil tank even though it's a constant been and not an intermittent beep. I am going to remove the oil tank this weekend and check all the connections. Where else could I have a short? Any more ideas?



Thank you everyone for all the help.
 
I have been way to busy with work to deal with this. Will hopefully get to work on it this weekend.



Thanks.....
 
I finally got to work on this issue. I removed the sensor from the tank and the constant alarm went off. It's either the oil sensor or the float in the tank. Probably the float but the sensor was only $8 and my dealer had it so I decided to replace it in addition to the tank. Tank is on order. I know I could have had a stuck float, but the float didn't seem to move freely when turning the tank in all directions so I decided to get the tank also.



Thanks again for the help. Will update the thread once I get the tank and get both parts installed.



 
The 1 and only time my rig went to the shop was because of a pesky alarm. It was the low oil alarm and it made a day on the water with clients very aggravating. Bilge tank full (as always) but the saddle tank would drop about 1/4 inch and sound the alarm. I would pull the cowl, remove the cap and run the motor to re-fill to the very top and then about 1 hour later it would start it all over again. Cap on tank in bilge...good, lines to saddle tank.....good, cap on saddle tank.....good. I couldn't figure it out so it went to the shop where they put on all new caps and/or seals. Got it back and it started the first time out.:angry: Back to the shop. Finally figured out that I had a hairline crack on my saddle tank (on the backside where you couldn't see it) that allowed it to lose vacuum and drain back into the bilge tank. Dealer replaced at no cost while I waited. :cool:



TOXIC
 
common broplem. Especially around Mac and Tox
 
Got the tank and the new sensor installed and it works just fine. Before I mounted the tank, I tested the float by turning the tank and letting the float slide. In the up position no alarm but with the float in the down position I get the constant beep.



I believe it was my float in the original tank that was the issue. It doesn't move near as well as the float in the new tank.



Do I have to bleed the line now? I did find some information online about bleeding the air out. Will gravity do it or do I have to run the motor to bleed it?



Thanks again for all the help on my issue.



 
Bleeding Air from Oil Injection System

IMPORTANT: If air exists in either oil pump hose (inlet or outlet), the air MUST BE bled

from the hoses before operating engine.

Bleeding Air from Oil Pump Inlet Hose

1. With engine not running, place a shop towel below the oil pump. Loosen bleed screw

three to four turns and allow oil to flow from bleed hole until no air bubbles are present

in inlet hose. Torque bleed screw to specified torque. This procedure also allows oil

pump to fill with oil.

Bleed Screw Torque

25 lb in. (3 Nm)

Bleeding Air from Oil Pump Outlet Hose

1. Purge air from outlet hose, by running engine at idle speed, until no air bubbles are present

in outlet hose.

 

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