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Mike Sealy

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I have a Evinrude Tracker Pro Series 115 hp TE115TLEIE Serial # 602618185 I was having some problems with the plug wires staying on. If I took the cowling off and then put it back on it would hit the plug wire and pull it out of the cap. I have zip tied them on and that seems to have fixed the problem of them coming off. The problem I am now having, and I am not sure if it related to the wire problem, is when I first start the boat it runs great. Lots of power. About 10 minutes of fling across the lake the motor just dies. Sometimes I can restart it and other times I can't. I brought it home and hooked it up to a hose. I ran it in neutral and in gear for 20 minutes and it worker great. I am thinking power pack or coils. Any thoughts?
 
Mike - Given the situation of the plug wires coming off when you put the cowling on and even if you tie wrap them I think thee wires are still working loose and that is why you are having the problems. Would suggest that you replace all plug wires before you even start thinking of power pack or coils. Not a real cheap alternative but cheaper than the pack or coils. Let us know what you come up with.

 
I had the same problem with a 75 Mariner. Turned out to be the stater. I`m not sure that is how you spell it but it is the somewhat round part under the fly-wheel.
 
Runs on the hose at idle speed......dies at high speed........sounds like something related to something heating up.
 
I believe Lamar has it. Coils break down when they get hot, when they are going bad. It will sooner or later go totally bad, and not start.



Bubby
 
I think I will start with the coils and go from there unless anybody has a better idea.

Is there a way to test the coil?
 
If it's only dieing at or near full throttle, I'd check fuel line long before I started replacing coils/powerpacks etc. Look for a kink or depending on the age, possibly collapsing. Ethanol in todays fuel is terrible on rubber/plastics.



Had a similar thing happen on a new Opti and found a kinked fuel line. Straightened it out an all is well.
 
YES! Check the fuel hose. The primer bulb is often the cause of the same thing you are describing. It loses suction as you throttle up and stops fuel flow. When your engine stops you should find the primer bulb empty. This is very likely your problem. It is also an inexpensive and easy fix.
 
OK I hope to get it on the Lake Thursday. Thanks very much for the ideas. Keep them comming
 
I second the fuel line issues as a probability. However, fix those plug wires, that needs to be done in all events.



And, always consider gremlins and ghosts!
 
I dont know why but I cant seem to find the plug wires I need on the internet. Can I just use any plug wire set?
 
Have you tried taking a pair of needle nose and tightening the gap of the plug boot on the inside metal clip? (Had to ask.) Any good auto store should have quality plug wires without crimped boot ends. (A Universal Spark Plug Wire set you cut to length, then crimp.) Stay with a good branded rubber(-ized) set of 8mm or better for best results. (Like Accel.) The sets should also leave you a spare or two for down the road as well. (4,6, or 8 wire sets plus a coil wire) Good luck! ;)
 
The ones I found on line were kind of $$$ I think I will try the parts store and see what I find there.
 
Would this work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Accel-4044-Spark-Plug-Wires-64-74-Small-Block-Chevy-V8_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad7f8ea62QQitemZ390170471010QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 
Those are molded boot, custom fit configurations. You want open ended boots that you can cut, fit and crimp to the same length as the booted leads you're replacing. A universal set will have uncrimped ends, lengths of plug wire(s) and boots that will all have to be fitted to your application. (Which is no big deal. A "2" or less on the weekender repair scale of 1-10. ;):D ) Something similar to below should get you fixed up:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Universal-Ignit...064QQcategoryZ121876QQcmdZViewItem#vi-content
 
A quick "shadetree" diagnosis is to individually pull the spark plugs and while connected to the boot and laying against the block for ground, turn it over and look for a white to blue spark on the electrode of the plug when triggered. If it's orange or yellow, something is most likely restricting full amp/voltage, which could be the coil, or the powerpak, or the stator. (As well as other less problematic to diagnose items like battery, plugs, wiring, fuses, relays....) If you only get a bad spark sign from one plug, it could very well be a coil. (I'm guessing that you have new plugs already.) Powerpak and stator are "equal opportunity" problems that should appear similarly through the coils. Good luck!
 
One more idea to throw in the mix. My 115 Carbed Mercury had a similar issue and it ended up being a faulty Rev limiter. I can't say I know how to test for problems, the mechanic at the Nitro/Tracker dealer in Hagerstown,Md diagnosed and fixed it for me.
 
would this work or is 8.8mm to big



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Accel-8031-8-8mm-Universal-Spark-Plug-Ignition-Wires-V8_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5639043460QQitemZ370323764320QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
 

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