PT175 trailer bunk modifications

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Robert Lo

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2004 PT175 difficult to launch without backing in up over the bumper (Envoy not the trailer). Called Tracker about replacing the 2x4 carpet bunks with either rollers or telfon slicks. The customer service rep could not recommend doing so because the trailer is not made that way from the factory nor is it available that way as an option.



Obviously, the surface area contacting the boat would be less using rollers or a 2" slick versus the 3.5" bunk.



Does anyone have either an opinion on this or experience with this.
 
Red



Do you just float the boat off the trailer or do you have to back up that far even when you use the engine to pull the boat off the trailer? I would think by using the motor you would not have to back up that far.
 
Do you unhook the boat and float it off the trailer or do you leave it hooked up and then board and back it off. I unhook mine before i start down the ramp and dont even get my tires wet half the time on my toyota. Just carry a little speed and it will slide off unless it is really shallow where you launch. I have in the past used smaller tires on my trailer when i know i am launching in skinny water.

mike
 
If the problem is shallow ramps, Cabela's sells trailer "extension". Basically a 2 or 3 foot bar with a ball on one end and a coupler on the other.



Or just try some silicone/graphite spray or furniture polish on the bunks, but do not unhook your winch or safety strap until you are in the water.



Rich D
 
Haven't launched yet using the motor, I fish many electric only lakes in NJ.



I unhook before I back in to the point where I would have to step in water. The launch was shallow and the water was low. I did try stopping abruptly to give it a nudge off which did work, but I can't reverse the process to get out without the gas motor.



With a MG82 Tour, I considered running up at full electric but thought if I didn't pull the motor up in time, well just picture the rest.



What about rollers or slicks?
 
Get the extender for your hitch, use it when you need it. Unless you are beach launching, most developed ramps will be deep enough. Watched a guy with a new Pro-Craft dump it off the trailer pullin it up the ramp. Yes, he had the wench strap hooked but forgot to flip the lock over.



He was a guide also...oh the embarassment!!



TOXIC
 
He got veeeeeerrrrry lucky, nose popped up and he ran out of bowstrap just in time so the rig sat down without any damage.



TOXIC

Welcome back CIII....I have presents!!!
 
Cool deal for him Tox,

Are you getting my emails I am sending to you at home and work?? I am not sure if they are getting through or not.



Thanks for the hookup man, shoot me an email and let me know what I owe ya!!!!



I also have a present for you from germany. Man, it is GOOD to be back home!!



Carlos
 
You can load on the trolling motor unless the rope breaks and let me tell you that hurts. Fall back when rope breakes and fall forward when the tm hit the trailer...

BF
 
I've got a transom mount 34lb motorguide I can attach in an emergency when (and if) all else fails. Seems safer than using the bow mount for loading. But, I own a PT 175 and that is a much lighter boat. With a shallow ramp and you big boat it wouldn't get it all the way on anyway. Perhaps getting you feet wet isn't so bad.

I don't know first hand but I have heard that some TM only lakes will let you load with the gas motor. Check with the owner or state rep in charge...
 
???? I never have to back my 185 no farther than the top of the fenders. Once you get the hang of "power loading" it's a piece of cake. The 175 and 185 is by far the easiest to load and unload...I never have wet feet.

TEE

 
Red,



I know what you mean about the lakes in our area, NJ electric only, let me guess, you went to Furnace Lake, I have to pull by rope or use the trolling motor on my 185 to get it back on the trailer, I then either walk the trailer or use hip waders to get to the winch and winch the boat up the rest of the way. If you see back a couple of weeks I posted a question reagrding any damage to boat or trailer by winching it up.
 
CJL - It was Swartswood. Pulling out seemed easier because you can "dip" the bunks by going deep temporarily.



I would really like to install the rollers and/or slicks and was hoping that Trailstar didn't use rollers to save money and not because of the boat construction. The rep at Tracker said it was because of the boat construction. She claimed that even narrower teflon slicks might affect the boat.
 
CJ - I did a search on Trailers and saw your question. I also found the link to UltimateBunkBoards. Seems like a plastic 2x4. I think I will order a pair since the surface area is identical and will not create a warranty issue.



BTW - Where did you buy your boat- MarineMax?
 
Yes - only choice except for PA, have you had any dealings with them?



I also saw in BP shops a spray you can put on carpet bunks that makes them super slick. Are you the Tracker owner with the battery set-up in the bow compartments? If yes how did you resolve? I assume you have a 24 volt set-up. Marine Max talked me out of upgrading to 24 volt, they claimed it was not needed. They will be the first guys I call if I run out of juice on Merrill Creek.
 
I bought a Tracker ProDeep V-16 in 2000 from Clarks Landing prior to them being bought by MarineMax. Last fall I went in and wanted to trade-in for a new 2004 PT-175 but the trade-in was too low because of the 9.9 4-stroke.



In March, after I sold the boat privately, I went back in and wanted to upgrade the TM to the 54lb that Tracker offered as an upgrade. They wouldn't do it.



I called Northeast Marine in Blakely PA and not only would they upgrade to an 82lb digital tour, they did it for the exact difference between the two motors for a 100% trade-in credit. Dealing with them was a pleasure and worth the 6 hours of total drive time.



My previous dealings with MarineMax service were all positive including a replacement head on the 9.9. Their service dept is first rate and their decision not to allow upgrades from Tracker is based on their experiences with Tracker so I have no bad feelings what-so-ever. BUT, I wanted the better motor.



Yes, I am the bow storage guy. I had originally put two 82lb group 31's in the front but the boat nosed down. When I cut the electric, the boat would spin around like a bumper car. They kids liked it but I didn't. Luckily, I never physically modified the boat because I wedged a 3/4 plywood in the compartment first and all the attachments were to the plywood.



I ended up placing one battery in each of the rear storage bins. I never planned on using the bins for lure storage because I always plan to be up front. The batts fit perfectly after removing the molded tray. Fished new 6AWG down thru the drain ports in liquid tight conduit and then up around to the bow.



Fished all day Saturday in Swartswood in 30 mph winds and came back with 12.22v each battery, between 50-60% depending on whose voltage chart you use.



I had changed the Pro-43 motorguide that came with my old DeepV16 with a 74lb Maxxum. BUT, I could only get three 24's in the batt storage compartment on that boat which wasn't enough. Even had to paddle back once in Swartswood.



The PT175 bins look like they were made for batteries. I would have never even considered it if it weren't for the guys on this board offering advice.

 
Thanks, hopefully one day we will run into eachother, I am interested in seeing that set-up first hand, my boat is less then a month old and in the back of my head I concern myself with running out of battery every time I go out. Maybe I should just carry another battery as a spare and change on the fly? Or just upgrade to the 24v system, was the MG you traded in at PA brand new? Or slightly used.
 
CJL - They gave me $309.99 credit for the MP4300 that comes with the boat and charged me $480.00 for the Digital Tour 82lb. I picked up my boat without the trolling motor and he shipped me the 24V only because he ordered the wrong motor at first.



I had the 43lb Pro Series on my other boat but in a longer shaft. During the summer months I could barely get through the weeds. But, the 185 is not a deep so should be better. My experiences with both the 12v and 24v are this. You can fit (2) good series 31 batteries in the rear storage bins no problem. Do it but hook them in 12v and you will have over 200 amp hours. You will never run out. Ever. I mean ever.



The only down side is in the heat of summer. Furnace is not very weedy but Swartswood and Wawayanda are impossible to get through with that thrust. I have asked so many times on different boards whether or not it is more efficient to run a 24v at half speed versus the 12v at full speed. Using the MG Tour load calculations, the 12v will last slightly longer.



BUT, when you only have a few hours to fish, I would rather go out and come back as quickly as I can and burn as much power as possible. If I know I'll be out there all day, I'll ease up and run the 82 at 1/2 speed because I have more time. To quit fishing early and have 80% battery life left seems silly to me. That is why I got the 24V.



Get the two batteries, and you can run them at 12v for now or 24v later if you decide to upgrade. Just a simple jumper change. Either way, I would replace the group 24 interstate with two group 31s from Power Battery in Paterson. Ask for Danny. $127.00 for an 82lb sealed battery that is an AGM design but filled with Gel. They have a patent pending on it. Just watch the charger because you need lower bulk and float settings than a lead acid or standard AGM.

 
RugerM44 - I had difficulty getting it off as well. The power winch would probably help getting out but not in.



Are you saying that the boat didn't slide off any easier with the slicks installed? How could that be when the bunks are bone dry going in?
 
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