PROP CHOICES

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Doug Friant

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ok, here's today's issue: I am not at all familiar with props or the differences. Right now I have a 3 blade stainless steel on it, pitch unknown. Thbere also is a whale tail attached. It has bends on 2 of the blades which I am planning on having fixed. I need to get another prop for a spare but what is the best choice for me? I use my boat strictly for fishing but do like to scoot across the water. Also what is the best value for my buck? Can somebody explain the differences between props and pitches?



Thanks!



Doug
 
In a nut shell,



Propeller Sizes are given in a set of numbers, e.g. 13x17 or 19x23 usually labeled on the propeller. The first number is the Diameter (width of the circle of the blades) and the second is the Pitch (theoretical travel distance of the angled blades in one revolution).



Two other design features include Rake and Cup. These elements are not labeled on the propeller. The Rake measurement indicates the angle of blades
 
Doug,

You're missing way too much info to even begin making a prop recommendation. Need to know what kind of boat, motor, current prop make/model/pitch, what your current rpm's are, and what your overall goal is (top end, overall performance, hole shot, heavy load, light load, etc...)



There is no one end-all-be-all prop brand. For each specific hull, there are good props and bad. Some hulls will print well with the same prop - for example - 2005 Triton TR-20X with a 225 Optimax - general recommendation for most - Trophy 26 pitch. I have that boat, and couldn't run a 26 pitch Trophy because I carry a stores worth of tackle with me. Performance also changes between summer / winter. For that reason, I run a 24 pitch Mercury Fury during the summer, and a modified (PVS holes added) PowerTech TRO-4 25 pitch in the winter. I try to keep my max rpm's at the max rated level - 5750. Now that is for my motor though - your's will be different.



Give us some additional info, and I'm sure the fine people on this site will be able to get you set up right. Pitch and make for your prop should be printed on the side of it somewhere. If not, look for the pitch by the nut that attaches it to the motor - should be written on the pressed in hub on the metal piece right underneath the nut if that is the type of prop you have (rubber pressed in hub type). Or... put a bunch of pictures of it on here and I'll see if I can identify it.



All the best,

Glenn
 
ok not sure what max. rpm's are or supposed to be but.....it is a 1993 nitro 180TF. Motor is a 1993 evinrude 150 HP. Prop is labeled as 14 1/2 x 24. In big numbers stamped says 394755 and right after that is small stamped number 2603.



Doug
 
:) That would be a Raker prop - hold onto it. Get the blades fixed, and run it. Great OMC prop. In those years, OMC had two good props that I can think of - the Raker was the 3 blade speed prop, the Shooter was a 4 blade prop that gave good holeshot and handling. I've run both. The Raker was my favorite. My buddy also had a Raker and a Shooter that he used on his Ranger back then - about the same age as your boat, with a 150 Johnson Fast Strike (your engine's sister in the Evinrude line).



I'm assuming (correct me if I'm wrong here guys), that a 180TF is a 18 foot boat. With a 150 on it, that prop sounds like it should be right, but without rpm's, speed, and water pressure, I couldn't be certain.



Definitely get the prop fixed - if the bends on the blades were bad, I'd be checking the prop shaft too to make sure it didn't get damaged.



Not sure on max rpm's for that year Evinrude 150. For a 1997 model Faststrike 150, it was 5500. I'm pretty sure yours is the same.



All the best,

Glenn
 
Thanks Glenn! Guess I will go out to garage and see what else I can find on boat to ask you guys about. lol :blink:
 
Pat Goff would probably have a heart attack regarding the subject. I'm not quite as harsh on their use, as I've used them in the past.



I will admit - he's right. They are a "band-aid" at best for a setup problem that, if addressed, will probably get rid of your need for one.



I'll give you an example from my personal experiences.



I had a 1997 Cajun 18' bass boat with a 150 Fast Strike on it. I played with engine height and prop choices until I thought I would drive myself crazy. In the end, I had a good setup, with a quick little 18 footer - decent holeshot, good midrange, pretty good top end. But at lower speeds, she dropped off plane quickly, and it had some handling issues - kind of like the boat was "grabbing" the water in the back when I would turn, as well as porpoising a lot at lower speeds. I gave up and installed a SE Sport foil on it. Fixed some of the problems... kinda.



Years later, when money and more knowledge presented itself, I spent the best money ever - I bought a 6" manual Rapid Jack jackplate. WHOA! The boat handled like a totally new rig! The addition of hydraulic steering accentuated that feeling. It was awesome. I had to tweek my prop a little bit to make up for the additional setback, but I picked up some speed, and the handling was out of this world. I took the foil off to check - it was making no difference at that point. The proper setup (6" setback) cured the problems that the hydrofoil was covering up. The foil "fixed" - the jackplate "cured" - for good.



Recommendation - take it off. Play with the setup to get it right. Just my opinion though.



All the best,

Glenn
 
Only been out 3 times, and each time I had it on. Will go out this weekend without it and see how she handles without. Thanks again!



Looking for best place to take prop to now to get fixed.
 
I don't know of any prop shops local to you. I can recommend two that I know that are out of your state and accept prop work from just about anywhere.



The first being "Max" at Bay Propeller in Chesapeake VA. Really good prop guy who goes the extra mile to help you out. He can take really good care of you. Tell him Glenn in TX sent you if you call him. His number is (757) 485-5681. He turned my Raker prop on my '97 boat into an awesome neck-snapping holeshot / wide open "yahoooooooooo" prop. :lol:



The second one is Mark Croxton. He recently added PVS holes to my prop as well as polished it up for me. He is fairly well known in the bass boating community, particularly on the BBC boards. You can reach him at (317) 398-9294. I don't know him anywhere near as well as Max, but he does quality work at good prices.



Before you call either though, you need to have your numbers ready (rpm, speed, etc...) because they are going to ask.



All the best,

Glenn
 
On the gauges in your dash brother... :) ... and speed on a GPS hopefully...



Do you have one?



All the best,

Glenn
 
tach red lines at 6000 but speedo doesn't work :(



I found another thing a ma bob that I have no idea what it works...a lever just in front of throttle that flips from left to right...little picture at each side shows something open and closed on the other?????
 
Doug - does it say Auto and Empty? If so that is the livewell switch. when on Empty it allows water to flow out of the livewell (and to some extent let water in throug the hose/fitting from the rear of the boat,when on Auto it pulls a valve that shuts the drain so that when you push the dash switch to add water (Manual) it holds it. At the end of the tourney or use after you've taken your fish out, you'll move that back to Empty and the water will drain out.
 
OMG...just went out and looked, doesn't say anything but when I flipped it I heard water drain out back of boat so I jumped in and opened livewell and sure enough....lever does drain livewell. I sure am learning fast here. Might be an old pro by season's end. Thanks Trepman!
 
Doug, Glenn is right on about Max. He just fixed me up and was awesome to work with.
 
One other thing, are you running that bent prop? These guys would know better than I but I was told it would/could mess up your lower unit from vibration.
 
well that does it for me...Max it is. I will contact him and tell him who recommended him. Any guesstamations on costs? Really doesn't matter if I need it done I need it done!
 
I am sure every prop is different. Though he hasn't billed me yet, the cost of mine was $425 plus shipping, PowerTech brand. He had to ship me two of them so I had to pay shipping on both and shipping back once. I paid $11 for the one I shipped back, U
 
I am sure every prop is different. Though he hasn't billed me yet, the cost of mine was $425 plus shipping, PowerTech brand. He had to ship me two of them so I had to pay shipping on both and shipping back once. I paid $11 for the one I shipped back, UPS.
 
Doug,

Jimmy's price was for a brand new prop - Just in case you were wondering. Prop repair is significantly cheaper, but on a stainless, it's isn't inexpensive. With the prop you have, it should be worth it though. Depending on how bad the prop is messed up - the price is variable. Max will do you right though.



On Jimmy's comment about not running a damaged prop - he is absolutely right. Small nicks on the edges - I'd say ok - but get it cleaned up soon. Damaged? Bent? Don't run it. You could cause some big time damage to your lower unit. At the very least - it could mess up your seals and let water seep through into your lower unit. I wouldn't run it until you get it fixed.



All the best,

Glenn
 
well 2 of the blades have slight bends on tips and I would rather be safe than sorry so I am going to try and get it sent out today. I had heard something about a prop being able to mess up gears etc so even when I took it out, it was more like testing all functions and not out running it hard at all, or for long periods of time. Thanks!



So who's going to pick me up for fishing this week? ;)



Doug
 
Just a bit too far from Chicago Jimmy but thanks for the offer. Who knows, might take a road trip. lol
 
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