Any Words of Wisdom? Installing?

[MICHAEL WILSON]

I have just recived a new power drive, which I will be installing on my 90s model Nitro, Well as we all know, there is not much room up there, So since it seems that some of you guys have been through this, Any words of wisdom? Any special tools that made it easyer? Or made? I did read the message about boreing out the control pannel in the bow a little,To get an arm in, But with my arms I am not sure if that would work. Anyway just thought, oh yea i do have a 9 year old that will be helping. Hope that works. Grin.. maybe I should just cut a hole in the floor and install a storage hach!! One I can remove when needed. Grin!!!

 

[Steve Rizza]

Make sure your wireing and fuse are the correct size.

If it is too small,it will melt down and catch on fire.



Some things you learn the hard way

 

[James D.]

mike w,



i wrote about using the roto zip to widen the hole in the front panel. I also used a pneumatic air wrench to screw the nuts on. I could not get to the front 2 nuts still. It took Soonerfans son Andy to get to those. If the holes do not line up with the existing holes you will want to reuse as many of the orig as you can. I made a template out of some cardboard so that i could drill the 1/4" holes in the EXACT location so that there is no "play". Thinking back about the project, one might consider using the inserts avail thru minn kota on the front 2 holes and bolting through on the others. Do not use the motor guide rubber inserts (mk advised me that they actually were causing damage to the mk mounts). I could get to the back nuts thru the rod locker. As others recommended to me, use ss hardware, nylock nuts, and double nut them to be sure it doesn't loosen up. hope this helps.



jd

 

[gone bye bye]

Also use fender washers if you bolt through.



Mini

 

[Staci Matheis]

On my old Nitro 180, I also widened the access hole in the front panel to get to the bolts. COVER THE EDGES WITH DUCT TAPE or you'll cut your arms to ribbons.



Like Mini said..... Cut off the nut at the end of the rubber grommet leaving only the wide part at the top and the sleeve. On the underside of the cap, use a fender washer and a locking nut with the nylon insert. (Stainless if you can find it.) If you don't use the fender washer, I guarantee that the mountings will eventually pull through.



When you're done, check for smoothness of operation of lifting the trolling motor out of the "stowed" position. If there is any twist in the frame, it won't operate smoothly. You may have to tighten/loosen some of the bolts a bit. Easier to do it there than on the water!



me!