Matt Wilson
Member
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2012
- Messages
- 14
- Reaction score
- 1
Ahh… I totally forgot to mention that problem with the fifty other ones in some of my previous posts. I went with a longer and bigger stainless screw in the same holes. I also used a 2 part epoxy and put a little on the back of the piano hinge and in the screw holes. Seems to have fixed the problem so far. I can’t even believe they went with those tiny screws to begin with. Absolutely just blows my mind.Checked today. Stiff as Dirk Diggler. I'll order a new one and report back.
make sure the longer screws don't protrude into the locker area where it can snag a hand fishing around for something. When I use larger screws, I cut the taper off to get benefit of the larger diameter, but short enough to just penetrate... I finish the ends on the grinder to remove sharp edges.Ahh… I totally forgot to mention that problem with the fifty other ones in some of my previous posts. I went with a longer and bigger stainless screw in the same holes. I also used a 2 part epoxy and put a little on the back of the piano hinge and in the screw holes. Seems to have fixed the problem so far. I can’t even believe they went with those tiny screws to begin with. Absolutely just blows my mind.
Yep my hatch lid hinge had to be re-drilled also.Ahh… I totally forgot to mention that problem with the fifty other ones in some of my previous posts. I went with a longer and bigger stainless screw in the same holes. I also used a 2 part epoxy and put a little on the back of the piano hinge and in the screw holes. Seems to have fixed the problem so far. I can’t even believe they went with those tiny screws to begin with. Absolutely just blows my mind.
Did you have to change the rod locker piston? My rod locker hatch opened up so low I almost had to lay down on the floor to put my fishing rods in it. Re-positioned the piston for a higher opening.There are two sets of screws. 1 set to attach the piano hinge to the fiberglass and another to attach the hinge to the storage lid. The longer and thicker screws were used to replace the lid side screws only. The set of screws attaching it to the fiberglass were fine. I think I threw away the tiny ones from the factory but they were only like maybe 3/8” long at best and had very little thread to grab the soft plastic lid. The screws run parallel into the end of the lid and are recessed so that is a non issue.
Yep my hatch lid hinge had to be re-drilled also.
Did you have to change the rod locker piston? My rod locker hatch opened up so low I almost had to lay down on the floor to put my fishing rods in it. Re-positioned the piston for a higher opening.
Not nearly as bad as others are having. I’m running the Mercury 150 with the Fury 25P three blade prop. No jackplate. Normally run with a 1/2 tank of gas. So my boat is lighter in back. Also only have two batteries. It seams with the bigger motor, 3 batteries, and the gas tank all on the stern it’s a weight issue.No haven’t had any issues from that yet but I’ll be keeping a close eye on it. Btw since you have a set up similar to others on the forum do you have the same ride issues we’re having? Porpoising in the low to mid range and having to stay trimmed down? If so, we’re looking for a solution. Any chance you have a jack plate?
Came with the Fury 25P. More weight in the front should bring the bow down. That's why a lot of people buy the whale tails or stingray adapters to push the bow down. Always like the gas tanks mid floor for balancing some of the weight out and not all the way in the back.Yep that seems to be a common opinion. Weird that some are the complete opposite though. Some say that it’s too bow heavy and can’t get over the hump. 2021 200hp came with a 21p tempest. Did yours come with the 25p?
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