What's between the cap and hull

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fatrap

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Rob has me all syched up now about water between the cap and hull. Does anyone know how much room there is there for water to occupy? Is it even worth worring about in my boat's case? I'm sure that if water can get in it's where the cap screws to the hull. These screws need to be tighten occasionally. I was under the assumption that all void areas are filled with foam.

As I posted under Robs's "water source" post I too found water when mounting a bracket on the hull. Can this water, if there, cause problems if it freezes? My little Nitro (dc170) is winter stored inside, but unheated. Although it doesn't freeze in there very often it can.

Anyone with any insights? I'm glad Rob brought this up as I have always wondered about it.



fatrap



 
Fatrap,

The cap and hull meet and are screwed together and then covered by the rub rail. There's nothing between. You can better seal it. But with my boat, the rub rail and "seam" that runs around back to the transom often goes under water as the boat bobs up and down, thus allowing water to seep in and run down the walls into the bilge area. Along it's way as it runs down, it found that little hole that got conveniently left open and each time, a little more water would fill into that sealed compartment/mounting platform. Once in there, it has no way to escape. Since I can't see in there, I cannot guarantee that the wood in there is sealed in fiberglass and resin. If not, the water will most surely rot everything and destroy the integity of the corners. I will investigate more tonight. Everything on my boat is still strong and sound with no flex, so I believe I caught it in time. But the water DOES need to me removed and kept out in the future.
 
Rob



My rubrail bobs up and down underwater also. So if I understand correctly in my case, any water entering there(under the rub rail) will eventually end up in the bilge unless it finds someplace else to enter? So no worry?

I also have a few screws that have gone through the rubrail leaving it slightly seperated from the seam (cap/hull). Would unscrewing these pull throughs and adding a ss washer, retighting, then siliconing the whole thing Port to starboard be recommended.

Sorry to be a pain

fatrap
 
yes, that's what I'm doing. But if you said you drilled a hole and water came out, then it may have found a way in yours also. On each of the platforms, left and right, where batteries, oil tank, etc are mounted. Unbolt each and lift them to be sure that there are no open holes into these little closed cupboards, if you will. If there is, level the boat and look down in to see if there is any water. If so, you have the same problem. Am I making sense? The best way I can think is for me to make an 8mm video tape and send it out to everyone like Scott's community drill for chargers. Would anyone be interested. I can ship it to fatrap first and then he in return and mail it to the next party. I can narrate it with what I have found as I pan in with the camera for close detail. Let me know. I can start tonight. Actually, what I will do, is convert it over to VHS for VCR's on a short tape. You can watch it on TV and get back to me.
 
Wow Good Idea.

What I have is two platforms with a well in between. The well drops to the bilges where the pumps, and transducers live. In front of the well going from P to S is the ledge where the gastank is mounted. The left(portside) ledge holds two batteries the right(starbord) holds the oil tank and starting battery. These ledges sit pretty high out of the bilges and the various mounts are screwed into these. one of the brackets that hold the gas tank down has pulled out several times. It appears that there is floatation in these areas. They are too high for bilge water to enter.

When I drilled the holes for my sensor bracket on the lower outside hull edge, just far enough to the right as not to interfere with the waterflow to the cavitation plate. I had a little stream of water with a few particles of white foam come out the holes. I asked the dealer (Watersport Marine Omaha NE now out of business)they had no anwser. So I've lived with this wondering......... It appears to be no biggie as the boat is a 93 and shows no sign of any structual problems. Not even stress cracks

I suspose when I put it up for the year I can unscrew the bracket and see if there is still water there and take it from there



fatrap
 
Exactly like mine it sounds. I'll make the video and send it to you. Send me your address by e-mail. You need to get it out. Water ALWAYS finds a way!
 
Sure is sad that most manufacturers screw the cap to the hull. IMHO, the cap and hull should be fiberglassed together to seal out water entirely. Rob- do they still build Nitros this way? I've learned TONS about good and bad boat construction at the site www.yachtsurvey.com by David Pascoe. Yes, he surveys mostly big boats, but I think all boats, including bass boats, should be built right. Check out this site- it is awesome if you are a boat fan in general like me!
http://www.yachtsurvey.com
 
Unfortunately, Ben, Nitros are still done this way. I went most of the summer without my 901 due to this separation of cap/hull. The majority of the problem was at the bow. The problem has since been fixed and stronger than ever. However, all the pressure on the bow end of the cap has caused the aft section to come loose. As soon as big duck season starts I'll ship 'er off to get that fixed.



I originally thought it was a problem with my new TM mount. Kept hearing a squeal every time I would make a sharp turn with the TM. As almost an afterthought, I mentioned it to the service manager at BPS when I had it in for some other warranty work. Problem was diagnosed and promptly sent to the glass shop. Spent some time with the gentleman that performed the work...very knowledgeable and convinced me that his bonding process was 100% stronger than the factory job.



Maybe they should hire that dude as a process engineer!
 
Precisely Adam. It wouldn't take much more time or money to get it right in the first place. Granted mine is an '89, but evidently, the '89 mentality is still at work in much of today's "cut corners" design. It really cheapens the perception and reputation of the brand. The reality is that IMHO, my '89 is built stronger and better than many of today's bigger more expensive rigs.
 
Rob, that's good to know about my 89' as well! I haven't looked at the construction on the new nitros, so I don't know what the differences are.
 
Yours is thicker and stronger! Maybe not as wide or fast, but built like nails! Hey jump in the chat for a minute!
 

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