Transom saver?

[Dennis Hamer]

i need to get a new transom saver and wanted to know what people think about the Swivel eze product as a replacement please see link.



Thanks in advance




http://www.basspro.com/servlet/cata...arClassCode=2&hvarSubCode=7&hvarTarget=browse

 

[Kim Becker]

I am not sold on the idea of this design. To me, the purpose of a "transom saver" is to take the weight of the motor and stress of trailering off of the transom, which is why the standard models mount to the trailer frame. This model does not take anything off of the transom. Just my opinion.

 

[Steve Rizza]

I'd say the transom is plenty strong enough. The Swivel Eze would get the weight off of the hydraulic clyinders, which would be more inportant.



Unless you have a smaller older boat like mine, and the transom may not be as strong as it once was. I'd stick with the trailer mounted one for my boat.





Steve

 

[Barry Dufour]

I have used this and it works great. You can stop motor bounce and use the trim switch on the motor itself to help secure the motor. The old way would allow the motor to bounce when the boat would bounce on the trailer.

Barry

 

[Greg Meyer]

I remember "Physics 101", the strongest shape was a triangle...



Regular transom saver... Lower unit to the trailer.... Solid



Trailer and boat connected at the transom with transom straps... Solid



Motor... straight line basicly from the transom to the lower unit... Solid



Advantages... Strong triangle shape... no movement of any of the three legs...



Stress is off the hydraulics and onto the transom saver



Any "bounce" (non-existent really) of the motor is not "twisting"

on the transom because that "leg" between the lower unit and

the trailer won't move.



Any "up and down shock" is taken up by the trailer springs

because the trailer and the boat are firmly tied together.

 

[TritonGlenn]

Dennis / others - the one posted originally by Dennis is a superior design over the original "transom saver" that mounts to the trailer.



Transom savers that go from the lower unit to the trailer are not saving much - you hit a bump - yes, the trailer springs will bounce and take a lot of the jolt - but your motor is tied to the trailer, and that jolt it transfered from the trailer to the lower unit, stressing your motor and transom.



However, the new design locks the motor down into the bracket, and also helps keeps the motor from turning side to side. The bouncing of your engine now on the transom is greatly reduced, as it has stabilized the entire package.



For the physics thing - I've never taken physics, so I could be wrong, but I'm pretty certain that if you look at a small, tightly packaged "beefy" "triangle", compared to one with longer, thinner "legs"... the small, compact one will win out in strength. Think about it.



You will probably get more stress on a transom by jumping 1 foot waves than using this design of transom saver. I'm not trying to get into a arguement about which is best, but if you buy one of these, I am about 99.9% sure you will never buy the old style again.



All the best,

Glenn

 

[Paul P]

The purpose of a transom saver is to offset the moment created at the top of the transom where the motor is bolted to the hull. Using basic static mechanics, this is most effectively done by placing a transom saver in such a fashion that the radial distance of the resulting force vector is as large as possible from from the top of the transom. In the case of this motor hull arrangement, you would imagine that a force vector parallel to the hull centerline placed as low possible would be best. So for all practical purposes, this new transom saver is as effective for its "transom saving" ability. What it does have that some other transom savers do not have, is the ability to keep the motor from turning and it looks easier to use than traditional transom savers.



In my opinion, an overall superior transom saver! Most likely an upgrade I will invest in this winter. It will eliminate the bungee cord around the steering wheel and is easier to use.



Paul

 

[Bruce Freeman]

I have one and love it. I know it's a lot easier on my transom (lower back)....LOL

In therory the boat does not move on the trailer, but there must be a reason for the bungie and the saftey cable on the lower unit to trailer style (prevent loss of tansom saver) and a bad check valve in the trim will let the motor bounce and turn with either of the two devices.



BF

 

[TOMMY RICH]

It seems to me the design is really no different than the ones that go on your trailer.

Like Glenn said,"the trailer and boat are as one when they're latched together".

 

[TritonGlenn]

dewey - stop going off roading with your boat in tow! :lol: I cannot imagine hitting a bump big enough to break a Lock-N-Stow in half. Those things are pretty beefy. I think I'd damage the boat and trailer before breaking one of those. What did you do to break it???



One thing I forgot to add about a LNS over the traditional style that is very nice. I have little black plastic storage bins in the back of my boat - in the bilge area. This LNS fits perfectly in those little bins, and with the trailer mounted tie downs - I no longer have to make a trip back and forth to my truck to store that stuff. Just unclip the tie downs, remove the LNS, place in the storage bin, and I'm ready to launch. NICE!



All the best,

Glenn

 

[Paul P]

I also have storage bins in the back of my boat which I can reach from outside the back of my boat. That is good to know. Key ... not having to go to the back of my truck to store suff.



Sold! I'm ordering one. A Christmas gift to myself.

 

[Eric Aasen]

I got a LNS with my new boat. Same as Glenn, it's just so easy to pop it into the back compartment, unhook the straps and launch. It also keeps the motor from turning side to side which was a big problem with my Nitro and the trailer mounted transom saver. Everytime I'd hit a bump, I'd look back and see that shock transfered to the motor and it would turn sideways. I also noticed that the transom saver would move from the center of the roller to one side or the other. For me and my new Triton it's Lock and Stow all the way!



NoCAL

 

[Randy Walls]

Any concerns with aluminum over glass and will it work with a 115 opti? It says a 135 opti for the one model, but I bleive the 115 and the 135 are the same dimensions?



Thanks!

 

[TritonGlenn]

I don't see of any issues with aluminum boats with this product - it does the same thing - help save your transom. I don't know about the 115/135 thing. I'd ask over on BBC too.

All the best,

Glenn

 

[Randy Walls]

thanks Glenn!

 

[TritonGlenn]

You're very welcome. Sorry I couldn't be of more help on the 115/135 sizing.

All the best,

Glenn

 

[Bryan McDonough]

Does the swivel eze stop you from lifting the motor? If it does not i'd stay far away from it. Cause when the motor comes crashing down to the point the hydraulics stop it or the swivel ease stops it thats gonna create a lot of force. Now true it may not really be enough to worry about, but its still gonna be a violent force on your transom and hydraulics.



I really don't think it matters what you use. But we have some fuzzy science surrounding this issue.



My boat is tied to the trailer. Some tell me the boat and trailer move seperately, i don'y buy this at all. Sure my motor moves on it mounts like it designed to do, which just might give the appearance to some that they move seperately. But if my boat is resting on solid bunks how is the " Trailer Shock" not getting transferred to the boat and motor. Someone has to explain this to me. Seems like "trailer shock" happens no matter what type of mount you have and will always get transferred to the engine.





Just my thoughts

 

[TritonGlenn]

You know, we could go on about this topic forever.



Try this to make you a believer - because this is what I did. I should have posted this before.



Put your regular transom saver on, and have a few guys bounce up and down on the back of your trailer steps, while you watch the engine.



Then put on the Lock N Stow and do it again.



I'm 99.9% sure you will drive off with the Lock N Stow attached if you see what I saw.



All the best,

Glenn

 

[davetnitro]

i have strapped my boat down tight at the ramp, upon arrival at home,

the straps aren't always as tight as they were at the ramp, the boat

has moved on the trailer, and i have a big butted 911 with a big a$$ verado hanging

off the back. if you want to save your transom, you need to get some kind of

device to protect it during hole-shot, as there is a lot more force on the transom

while trying to lift a big boat out of the water. no transom saver for me.......



my verado comes with a tilt lock

mercs words:

'allows for easy securing of engine for trailering of extended periods

in tilted up position'

 

[TritonGlenn]

Yep, I'd use that too if I had a Verado.

All the best,

Glenn