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The "w" word

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Barb Baggott

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Hi all!



Looks like this weekend will be last use of the boat. As a new owner this spring, I have a couple of questions about the "w" word...

1. I have an EFI, therefore I don't need to fog the carb, corect?

2. Is it nessasary to put stablizer in gas? If so, should the tank be empty or full? Also I have only seen Quicksilver as a stabilizer, is this OK to use and how much do I need to use if I need stabilizer?

3. How do you drain the lower unit oil on the motor, I have 40HP, and is one tube of gear lube enough to fill it? And do you fill it just till it starts leaking out?

4. Do you throw the muffs on and wash out the engine first, then turn the water off, and run engine till no more water spitting out and then change lower unit oil?

5. I was going to leave the batteries on the charger all winter as it is a trickle charger for both batteries. Should I not do this?

6. The boat will be stored in garage, but not heated.



Thanks for all your help and let me know if I'm missing anything.

Barb
 

Pierre Voisine

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WOW....so many questions...I'll give you my take:





1. I have an EFI, therefore I don't need to fog the carb, corect? Not sure about this one myself...too many different opinions.

2. Is it nessasary to put stablizer in gas? If so, should the tank be empty or full? Also I have only seen Quicksilver as a stabilizer, is this OK to use and how much do I need to use if I need stabilizer? I like to keep my tank empty, therefore the use of stabilizer is not needed and you run new gas every year. If you still have gas in the tank any stabilizer will do, just folow the recommended instructions on the bottle.

3. How do you drain the lower unit oil on the motor,--> remove all three plugs and let drain. Add a bit of oil in top plug until you see some of the oil drain out. Start filling oil from the bottom hole t'ill it reaches the top one, then install all plugs. it's too important to ensure it's full of oil 'cause you shaould change it again before th season. I have 40HP, and is one tube of gear lube enough to fill it? Yes it should be enough. And do you fill it just till it starts leaking out? Yes

4. Do you throw the muffs on and wash out the engine first, then turn the water off, and run engine till no more water spitting out and then change lower unit oil? Does not matter, just ensure the water is running before you start the engine ans **don't run the water with too much pressure...a light trickle is enough.

5. I was going to leave the batteries on the charger all winter as it is a trickle charger for both batteries. Should I not do this? remove the batteries from cold environment and trickle charge them in your house. Do not leave them on the floor or on concrete, a shelf is better.

6. The boat will be stored in garage, but not heated. that fine.



Add: Get some RV anti freeze and fill your plumbing with this, it will reduce the chance of freezing.



Once you unplug the gas line, run your engine t'ill there is no gas in the engine.



Remove spark plugs and skwirt some oil in cylinders...add plugs by hand



If you can, jack the trailer up so that there is no weight on the springs/tires, oil rusted parts of trailer and greese hubs.



Remove or greese the prop. and store right up so that any water can leak out.



I also add moth balls to keep the animals out.



hope it helps,



Pierre







 

Sam Elkins

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There's a good article on the Bass Boat Central web site (link below) pertaining to winterizing your boat that adds some things to what Pierre said. It seems that everyone has different ways to winterize for storage so you need to get all the information and establish a system that your comfortable with. What may seem overkill to one person might just be peace of mind to another. Then again some northerners use their boats all winter and just keep the water drained out.
http://www.bassboatcentral.com/winterizing.htm
 

Barb Baggott

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Thanks one and all and I pulled a Mac because I keep hitting reply and then I just logged off and voila, 4 entries. Have to remember that trick!



Thanks again!

Barb
 

Cliff Van Beek

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Winterizing,



on the fogging, yes or no, the fog is not for the carbs, but the cylinders, stabilzer, yes, the fuel tank should be stored full, this helps reduce condensation in the fuel tank, fill, add stabil, run to get the treated fuel into your injection system, also can run some cooling system antifreeze into cooling system at same time, do not run with no coolant available for the pump to suck up, most do not realize that it can only take a few seconds of running dry to damage the water pump impeller. After shutting engine off, remome muffs, leave the motor trimmed down and draining for a few minutes, change your lower unit lube, now is the time to fog the cyliders, or pull plugs and fog/oil, turn over a couple times with the starter or by hand, reinstall plugs, raise motor, remove batteries, store them in a dry fairly warm place, charge them once or twice a month all winter. One more thing you should do is repack the trailer wheel bearings in the fall, do not want any moisture sitting in them all winter.
 

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