Power Loading Tips?

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Mike Wagner

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I am a relatively new owner of a Z7. With some practice, I have got fairly good at loading the boat without power loading (which is required at some of the launches). Today, I tried power loading at a different launch where it is allowed, and had a few issues.



I left about 1 foot of the bunks exposed, drove the boat on the trailer, and waited a few seconds for it to settle and straighten. I trimmed up to about 5/8 on the gauge to make sure the motor was high enough, and then powered the boat up the bunks. At first, the boat went up the trailer nicely, but then it just stopped when it got to a certain point, and I could not move the boat any further- the motor actually stalled. I was able to winch the boat up over the ball, but that kind of defeated the purpose of power loading.



How much of the bunks should be left out of the water when power loading? How high should I trim the engine? Any advice from the experienced bass boat drivers on here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!



Mike
 
I always wet my bunks that are out of water before loading.
 
All boats load just a little different, but I only leave about 3in to 4in of the center bunks out of the water. If I leave more than 4in of the bunks out of the water (wet or not) I can't get to the roller. If the bunks don't have at least 3in out of the bunks out of the water, the bow will want to go under the roller. Just try different depths till you find the one that works best.

I do raise the motor to about a 1/4 to 3/8 trim before I hit the gas, and getting the bunks wet helps.
 
The goal is to leave just enough bunk just right to guide the boat on and to hold it straight. Too much exposed and it will stop short, not enough and it will load crooked or float sideways. Wetting the bunks helps. My idea of a powerload is not to apply power after the boat has stopped, just enough to keep it moving up the bunks. Remember trimming up and powering pushes the rear of the boat down, if you are too shallow with the trailer, it will stop it too far back on the bunks. Trial and error is the only way to learn. Keep at it.



TOXIC
 
You might want to keep in mind, that power loading destroys your boat ramps,no matter what there made of, or if its legal to power load or not at.
 
Best advice I can give you is DONT DO IT IN MICHIGAN!



Carry on.
 
so what exactly does power loading do that 'destroys' boat ramps????



 
The "Power Wash" from your prop blows material away from the end of the ramp eventually causing a sharp drop off at the underwater end of the ramp. That causes 2 problems, 1 if you back up too deep your trailer drops off the lip of the ramp and that is a v-e-r-y bad thing or the loss of lake bed from prop wash hollows out under the ramp causing it to buckle and fail (but until then, it holds great fish!!;)). In Michigan and other states it is against the law to power load. The ramp I use on lake Anna has been extended every time there is a low water event and goes a ridiculous length out in the cove where it is located, so powerloading is fine and allowed. I think ramp owners whether it be a marina or county/state have the option unless it is outright against state law.



 
http://www.boat-ed.com/mn/course/p2-4_trailering.htm



Watch the gif at the bottom of the page.



Now imagine you own a 28' go fast with twins or triples.....you have $2-3 GRAND in props.....The sediment is washed away and the mound is nothing but gravel and rocks.....your trailer is longer and it falls off the drop off. You try to float your boat on the trailer and your props hit directly on the mound of gravel. You are now spending money to have 2 or 3 props refinished/repaired.



I know all about making ramps longer, etc. But we have mostly natural lakes here and the water level does not flucuate. There really is no need for longer ramps and the state doesnt have money to make all the ramps here longer (or maintain them for that matter)........so it is illegal to do so.



Just DONT do it (in Michigan)
 

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