New TM Install

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Little Scrooge

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Getting ready to mount a new MK Terrova on my 2005 189 Sport. Anyone had any experience with this aluminum plate? I can remove it but underneath are 2 round pucks keeping me from getting any kind of flat surface to mount to. If I keep the long metal plate I need it to extend to accommodate the new TM plus trying to deal with the height of the tension springs. I guess fabrication and welding is in order. Anyone have any ideas?
TM Mount.1.jpg
 
I have a 2002 188 Sport with a similar plate. I mounted directly to that plate. I wanted to adjust the position of the trolling motor when loading and unloading from trailer, so I bought the sliding TM mount from Minn Kota and mounted that to the plate on nitro. You can also completely removed the TM with this plate as well.
 

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I have a 2002 188 Sport with a similar plate. I mounted directly to that plate. I wanted to adjust the position of the trolling motor when loading and unloading from trailer, so I bought the sliding TM mount from Minn Kota and mounted that to the plate on nitro. You can also completely removed the TM with this plate as well.
Thanks Jeff!
Glad you replied because I was awake at about 3am in my garage wondering if the MKA-16 (I think that is the mount you have) would fit over top of the tension spring block with the springs removed - from the pictures it looks like it fits perfectly. Only question I have is with the tension springs removed and now that block is flat on the aluminum plate, what holds that plate snug to the boat? Did you drill through the tension spring block, through the plate and all the way into the fiberglass and lock it down with a flush mounted screw and nut under the deck?
 
On mine, it locks in with a small pin through a shaft. I could actually remove the entire aluminum plate by loosening the back fastener and turning the entire thing and it will pull out. So I didn't put any screws into the fiberglass, just mounted the minn kota bracket to the aluminum bracket and left the aluminum plate the way it was secured to the boat originally.
 

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Jeff, my two metal pucks are loose. Do you happen to know what fastener is on the other side of the screws that hold the pucks down? I reached under there but didn't feel anything that felt like the shape of a nut. I need to tighten mine down because when I use the trolling motor, the force of the motor tilts the pucks and pulls up on them.
 
Loagz Dad My pucks are held in place by 4 nylock nuts. But I had a similar problem as you since they are stainless 1 of my four was galled and thus was not on tight and gave a little "play" I had to cut it off and reinstall a new one with hand tools. Also the underside of the fiberglass is not flat it so it makes those nuts really hard to get to and get a box wrench on
 
Good to know! When I try to tighten mine they just spin. I'm going to try to stick my camera in there and snap a picture to at least give me some bearings about what's what. My arm barely fits into the trolling motor plug cutout, so it's tricky to even reach the damn things.
 
If I remember, mine are also held on with nuts. I did tighten my back one which was loose before I mounted my TM. I think I laid in the front compartment and could reach them with a wrench to hold them as they were tightened.
 
I did this on my 2001 Nitro. I had a 1/2 inch plate fabricated. Then, drilled holes and used longer screws thru the mounting pucks. There is a previous thread on here where i posted pics.
Luckily I have a 14 yr old neighbor who helped me with the underside nuts.
 
On mine, it locks in with a small pin through a shaft. I could actually remove the entire aluminum plate by loosening the back fastener and turning the entire thing and it will pull out. So I didn't put any screws into the fiberglass, just mounted the minn kota bracket to the aluminum bracket and left the aluminum plate the way it was secured to the boat originally.
Jeff Brekke I have been following your lead on mounting my new Terrova. Where did you put the Heading sensor puck and how did you power it? I did not want to run the leads straight back to the cranking battery since in theory it will be on and draining the battery all the time. Bow mount Fishfinder is tied to bow lights for power, any suggestions?
 
Jeff Brekke I have been following your lead on mounting my new Terrova. Where did you put the Heading sensor puck and how did you power it? I did not want to run the leads straight back to the cranking battery since in theory it will be on and draining the battery all the time. Bow mount Fishfinder is tied to bow lights for power, any suggestions?
My terrova did not have a heading sensor puck, so I didn't need to figure that one out. I probably would have mounted in behind the front panel at the bow of the boat.
 
Power if off the front dek just behind the TM bow plate where it won't be stepped on. The wiring there is powered by your dash power switch so it won't stay on all the time. be sure you put a 1 (one) amp fuse inline on the circuit..
 
Larry you just answered my question on connecting puck to switch power in the manual it shows hooking to battery power. Does it mess with anything cutting the power off and on Also where you have yours mounted does it work correct and don't get any interference. Did you move the head on your trolling motor. i think i noticed yours looked like in the pictures the long part of the top pointed the same way as the prop mine is points away from prop and sticks outside of boat if i turn it the prop points to the outside of boat. i like my prop turned to the inside so if i bump a dock it wont hit the prop. also which 60 amp breaker did you use from Amazon i looked and they have one for 19.95 that is water proof and can be used to switch power on and off.
 
Cub not sure that I followed what you are saying- The compass arrow should be parallel with the beam of the boat- close as possible. There is a setting during the setup to iniatialize the unit and compass that correct any error as longu as you are fairly close to the beamline (direction). I always turn the prop to the inside of the boat and the extended part of the head unit does face forward as a pointer when deployed off the bow. BTW, I picked up power for the Puck off the power from the front wire harness where power is on unless I turn of the ultrex switch or turn off the battery at he back. functions that depend on the compass seem very accurate and spot lock generally holds well under a 3' radius unless conditions are extreme then it will use 3' but have not seen it vary more than a 3' circle. Yes, the Amazon breaker is fine and eaisly turns off and on to cut power while charging batteries and while stored. No issues with that. Let me look and I'll come back and post the particular one I bought. I'll look at the pic I posted and get back here to clarify.
 
Cub, The long front of the head unit aligns with the front of the motor. It kind of acts like a pointer as you troll around. I did miss the yellow arrow- Ha. I was able to keep the head unit inside the rub rail line but it was very close. That's important here with all the timber we fish.

This is the breaker that I'm using with no problems so far.
LYCAEA Made Circuit Breaker for Boat Trolling with Manual Reset Surface Mount,Water Proof IP67,12V- 48V DC
4.8 out of 5 stars 121
$22.44$22.44
FREE One-Day
Get it Tomorrow, Feb 13
 
Thanks Larry on my boat i have a power switch on my dash that cuts all accessories off i have my helix when i cut this switch off it cuts power off it. What i was asking if it was ok to have the puck on this switch power or if it needs 12v all the time. I am ordering the circuit breaker. Also i am getting a switch to put up front to cut the 24v power. This way i don't have to open the rear cover to cut power on the trolling motor can just turn the switch on the front panel.
 
You will only need power when using the troll motor. I'm not aware of any kind of delay using system once power is applied. I just leave mine powered all day since it uses such a small amont of electricity. Your setup should work fine.
 
Getting ready to mount a new MK Terrova on my 2005 189 Sport. Anyone had any experience with this aluminum plate? I can remove it but underneath are 2 round pucks keeping me from getting any kind of flat surface to mount to. If I keep the long metal plate I need it to extend to accommodate the new TM plus trying to deal with the height of the tension springs. I guess fabrication and welding is in order. Anyone have any ideas?
View attachment 1148
Did this project turn out ok for you?
 
Hi Larry what i was talking about the puck power wire i use is controlled by a switch on the dash i don't turn it off during the day but when i take the boat out the water for the day i flip the switch and it cuts the power off the puck what i was wanting to know if the puck loses power will it have to be recalibrated or anything. I ordered a heavy duty switch also and i am going to connect my trolling motor positive wire to this switch so i can just turn the lever and cut power off my trolling motor to charge my batteries. This way i won't have to open my lid in back and get to where the batteries are to flip circuit breaker. The switch will handle 24 volts, plus over a 100 amps i think it was more like 200 amps. I though i would mount it on the switch panel up front next to the trolling motor. Thanks Cub Steve Galloway
 

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