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mike mcmenamin

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Friends:

Need some info on a rod that was given to me. It is an Airrus Puls-R spinning rod 7'3" model PUL731-MH-S Filament wound Nano Composite Tech. On the website it lists for $210.00.

If this is the case, I owe my friend at least 1/2 the price of the rod.



Mike









 
Mike,

I've never heard of them, although they are noted in several places (I did a google search) of winning "best of show" awards at ICAST for several years in a row. I don't know... I mean, they seem to do really well at ICAST shows, but I've never seen one on a shelf, and never heard of them until today. In that case (personally) - I wouldn't pay that kind of money for it. But then again, I'm also not jumping on the recent "Carrot Stik" craze either, although that rod series seems to be gaining popularity lately.



Sorry I can't be of more help, but I've never heard of them.

All the best,

Glenn
 
Glenn:

This was the first I heard of them myself. I was just wondering how they stack up along some of the new rods ( St. Croix, Fenwick,). How are they for certain types of fishing, etc. Thanks for the input.





Mike
 
Mike,

The reason I bought up the fact that I had never heard of them, but that they had won several ICAST awards is that I wanted to point out the differences in "great in a showroom" and "great on the water". ICAST shows bring out the competitive nature in manufacturers, but unless they are actually testing the product on the water during a grueling tournament, I don't put much stock in their recommenations for "best of show". I've never known anyone to fish with that brand of rod in our little family here. Maybe someone will come along to shed some light on them, but I'm fairly certain that if they were everything they are advertised to be, someone here would have said something by now. Don't get me wrong - it's a great looking rod on the site... but looking good on the internet, and performing good on the water are too entirely different things.



I'd also recommend narrowing down what you are looking for as far as a comparison, as rods are designed for different things, different people, etc.... Are you looking for strength comparison, strength comparison, a combination of the two, etc....



All the best,

Glenn



 
Not to get to far off topic but Glenn mentioned the e21 Carrot Stix. All I can say is I was given one and a GLoomis for Christmas and took them on my trip to Florida. I caught several Largemouth on both rods....and after a 11.3 lb LM the Carrot stix came back in one piece. Unfortunately the rod I really wanted the GLoomis is heading back to the warranty center for replacement after a 6 lb Peacock. Snapped about 1/3 of the way down from the tip. I think the Carrot could be just a little more sensitive for the slow worm fishing but great with a crank bait.



The Dragon
 
Dragon,

I played around with the Carrot Stik at the Anna get-together, and I really liked the way it felt. I've never fished with one though, and for their price, I really ain't in a hurry to go plunking down the cash. On the GLoomis side of the house (and I'm not trying to cause an arguement or get anyone worked up here, as I know there are lots of Loomis fans) I hear of more Loomis's breaking than just about any other rod I know of. Don't get me wrong - they are sensitive as can be, and I really have liked how the ones I've played around with performed, but I hear of lots of people that have to use that Loomis warranty on a frequent basis. I know of a professional bass angler that fishes jigs all the time, and absolutely swears by GLoomis rods. However, in one fishing day, he cracked two Loomis blanks. He didn't even complain. Just put them in the rod locker and grabbed another. He said "I'll just ship them back and get new ones". That's cool, I thought... but doesn't that get kind of old after a while? I'd rather give up a little in sensitivity to gain the strength back in the rod, as constant warranty repairs and shipping costs would start to get on my nerves after a while.



But we are getting way off subject here, now aren't we? Sorry! :p



All the best,

Glenn
 
Not that I need one, but I did think about the Carrot Stick just to play around with and see how it does. I believe the LTX model is currently going for around $150. If you move up to the Boyd Duckett Gold Classic model the price jumps dramatically.
http://www.e21fishing.com/products.php
 
What really amazes me about all these "high end" rods is that everyone tries to go for "lighter", even if it is at the expense of casting differences in some instances. I've yet to see a factory produced rod with the "ultimate" of casting guides - Fuji's Gold Cermet. I havn't seen a ton of high-end rods produced with SIC anymore either, which is also a very high end guide and very lightweight - particularly with the Titanium frames. What I am seeing is all kinds of TiCH guides, most of which are PacBay, made either with stainless frames with TiGold plated SIC rings, or Titanium frames with plated SIC, aluminum oxide, hialoy, or one of their funky named "TiOX Blue", "TiGold", or other trademarked names that tell me absolutely nothing. Don't get me wrong - PacBay and American Tackle make excellent guides, and both have come a far way in recent years. They have some awesome looking colors, and I was drawn in by several of the newer materials, colors, etc... - but nothing, and I mean nothing on earth allows a line to flow through quite as nicely has a Gold Cermet or Fuji SIC guide. They are the ultimate, and I feel that if rod companies are going to spend all this time and money making the "ultimate" rod, then they should have the decency to place the "ultimate" guides on it.



... Otherwise, it's like putting vinyl seats in a Ferrari.



Want some proof for yourself? Do this - simple, inexpensive test. Take you favorite rod and reel setup, put some new line on it, adjust it properly, and then make several casts for distance. Mark your longest cast. Make no further adjustments to your setup. Remove the tip top from the rod, order and replace it with a Fuji SIC FST concept guide. They are about $6 average retail. Here's a link to them at Mudhole tackle:



http://shop.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Catalog/Silicon-Carbide_2/FST-Concept-Spin-Cast-Fly-Top



Line it up properly, glue it in place, and without making any adjustments, start your casting for distance all over again. I can almost gaurantee you will see a difference in longer casting. And that is with ONE guide - the tip top. Want even more? Replace one other guide with a Fuji SIC - the stripper guide - the first one you come across on the rod. As the style and type will vary, look through various online catalogs for a suitable replacement, remove your old one and wrap it in place. You will see a difference again - I can almost gaurantee it. Now, that's just two guides. Imagine a whole rod full of them. Expensive? Yes. Quite a bit moreso than standard Aluminum Oxide, Hardloy, Alconite, etc... but every bit worth it if you want the ultimate in smoothness and casting distance.



The last rod I owned that had a full set of Fuji SIC guides from the factory was a Team Daiwa Tournament series rod - $190 retail. I think it was way ahead of it's time. 54 million modulous blank (equates to about a "IM9" rating) with a full lineup of Fuji SIC guides made for the ultimate in rods. But at the time (approx 1993-1994 timeframe), that was too much for anyone to stomach. That rod, nowadays, would sell like hotcakes in my opinion. Rod companies should take lessons from that... but unfortunately, we are continueing to see the same stuff from most everyone. Lighter with funky shaped handles, futuristic sounding guides names that nobody can equate to (I'm waiting for the Kryptonite guides myself :p ), etc... is what everyone is putting out lately.



Oh, and don't even get me started on the rods not being spined correctly before they wrap the guides on.... that's a whole other couple of pages. :lol::lol::lol:



All the best,

Glenn
 
You know Glenn i never really put that much thought into the guides on my rods. I know a guy that will build one for me to spec. What do you think the ultimate rod would be?



The Dragon
 
Dragon,

I'd have to know what you are looking for in order to make some recommendations, but would be extremely happy to do so. If I knew the technique you were looking to use the rod for, and what your personal preferences were for the technique (i.e. - 6'6" Medium Heavy with a X-Fast tip for spinnerbaits) I could narrow down some specifications to give you a full list of what I would put on my idea of the "ultimate" rod. I really get into building things with a passion and fevor that I seldom ever display for much else. Having a true custom built rod is an awesome fishing tool.



Most of my rods are AllStar's, but those that do not have the AllStar name on them are custom built by me. I even make my own skeletonized reel seats on my custom casting rods. They take a bit longer to build, but the results are awesome. The really great part of it is, the reel seat itself is a standard Fuji seat, and I pay about $5 for them. I cut them down with a Dremel tool, round out the edges, and mount them on graphite arbors front and back for sensitivity. I find the strength and sensitivity of the split seat on graphite arbors far out-performs anything that I've store bought and mounted on cork or tape bushings. Here's a pic of a Fliping Stick that I built in early 2007:



DSCF0857.jpg




All the best,

Glenn
 
Glenn,



I would look for two specific rods one for flippin' and pitchin' and the second for crank baits, swim jigs and spinners (I am a true crank-a-holic):p. I like a shorter rod 6'6" or 7" is my ideal length. My favorite rod is actually one that my guy's at work gave me for my birthday a Team Daiwa-V 7'6" w/team daiwa reel for my jigs, tubes, worms ect.

My second is an All Star med-hvy w/fast tip 6'6" partnered with a Quantum E770PT reel for my spinners and cranks.

Then The Carrot stix with the same reel for all around versatility.

I have fished exclusively with All Star rods until this year I have about 10 of them but I have broken plenty of them. That is why I was looking for a rod that would be much more durable and would last me at least a few seasons on the trail. It may be a mute point if I get a sponsorship this year from e21 they will want me obviously fishing there goods. But I can always have my special rods too.



Thanks Glenn,



The Dragon
 
Hey Glenn,

Can you school me some on the reelseat gig? I LIKE the reelsets like that and they are hard to find....
 
Glenn - Be careful 'cause I don't think you can "school" an old retired jar-head. After retiring, they are untrainable except for the ability to kill people from long distances. LOL

 
HAHAh Too funny Bill, still have the hardware but not the reason anymore HAHAHAHAH



I can be taught! just ask hammer, Minie, Mac and Neeley!!!



Carlos
 
I buy most of my rod components from Custom Tackle Supply or Mudhole Tackle. You can find everything I'm mentioning here in those two locations:



http://www.customtackle.com/

http://shop.mudhole.com/



Blanks:



In G-Loomis, I'd go to the GL3 blanks in a "Mag Bass" series for sensitivity with a bit more durability than the IMX series rods. For a Flipping / Pitching, I'd recommend a MB843 GL3, which is a Medium Heavy action, Fast Tip model. I recommend the Medium Heavy simply because you plan on pitching with it also. If you were only flipping, I'd go with the MB844 GL3, which has a Heavy action. For the 6'6" General Purpose rod, I'd look at a MB783 GL3, which is a Medium Heavy, Fast Tip model.



I'd also look at the St. Croix rod blanks, specifically the SCV or SCIV series. They are my preference over the G-Loomis blanks. For the high end, I like the 5C66MHF for a general purpose rod. It's Medium Heavy with a Fast Tip. The 5C70MHF is a nice 7 foot pitching rod that some people like for larger spinnerbaits too - Medium Heavy with a Fast Tip. And last but not least is the 5C76MHF, which is a flipping stick - 7'6", Medium Heavy with a Fast Tip. Those rods are considered the "Elite" of the available St. Croix blanks. St. Croix's factory built rods - their high end "Legend Tournament" series uses one step below - the SCIV series. In that line, I'd recommend 4C66MHF for the general purpose, and 4C76MHMF for Flipping and Pitching.



I've also toyed around with Graphite USA and Lamiglas blanks, as well as a few others. My all-time favorite big-crankbait rod was a custom made Lamiglas blank that I cut down from 9' to 7'11", permanently glued the two-piece hidden ferrule together so that you couldn't see it anymore, and put SIC guides on it. That thing could cast a DD22 far enough to spool you if you weren't being careful! But I'm digressing, so back to the rod building.



Reel seat and components:



Fuji TCSD Size 17 is my personal favorite, but if you are going to cut it down and skeletonize it like I do, you may want to save a few bucks by going with the TCSM in Size 17 instead. There isn't that much difference in the two, but I normally use the TCSD when available. Personal preference is the frosted silver finish, but you can get the TCSM in Gold, Gunsmoke and black to match your guides as well if you choose. The TCSD only comes in Gold or Silver from Mudhole. CTS only has either of them in Gold or Silver. If you like the "soft touch" reel seats, there is a really nice one from Fuji called the TCSSD-17 Deluxe Soft Touch. Really nice feeling reel seat, but you can get three to four regular seats for the price of one of these. It's all a matter of personal preference, but definitely, without question, I recommend a Fuji seat in size 17 as noted above. I saw one recently by Fuji called the "ACS", and it's supposedly relatively new. I haven't used one yet though.



Use the graphite arbors under the reel seats. Fuji has them, as well as PacBay and a few others. Again, my preference is Fuji and the NSA-17 for the above mentioned seats is what I recommend. Don't let someone talk you into tape or cork bushings by telling you there won't be a difference. There is. It takes some work to ream the inside of the bushings down carefully, but the reward is well worth it.



Cork is a matter of personal preference. Some, like me, like the better stuff with less open pores - AAA grade rings at a minimum, AA if I'm using a pre-formed grip (hard to find AAA pre-formed lately). AAAA and FLOR are the two higher grades, but I seldom spend the money on it for my rods as it is a considerable bit higher, and I mess up cork more than anything during building as well as fishing. It's frustrating to waste cork at a rate of $2 to $4 an inch for AAAA and FLOR. Even $1.50 an inch for AAA cork is frustrating. I like building my own handles out of rings. I've bu
 
Carlos,

I'd be happy to show you exactly how to do it. It's a little difficult explaining over the internet, so I can either show you face to face how to do it (I've got a few you can practice on if you would like), or I can try to take a ton of pictures next time I do it (hard to do when you are by yourself). Just let me know when we can meet up, and I'd be happy to show you. It isn't difficult at all - just time consuming to do it right.

All the best,

Glenn
 
Glenn

Is this something you would be willing to build?? Give me an email and let me know?

Dragon
 
Back on Topic.....



Kistlers break more than Loomis!!



Personally, I use CastAway rods. Every bit as good as the high dollar rods, they even have some big $$ rods but you can also get a great rod under $100. Greentop had them on sale last year for $49 if I remember correctly!!



TOXIC
 
"Back on Topic"



:lol::lol::lol:



Thats funny as heck Toxic... since the "topic" was about "Airrus Puls-R spinning rod 7'3" model PUL731-MH-S Filament wound Nano Composite Tech" ... not Kistlers, Loomis, or CastAway. :lol::lol::lol:



Sorry bro. I thought that was hilareous. :p





MIKE,

Sorry we kinda hi-jacked your post and got on a high-end rod comparison instead. I've been asking around for your info though. So far, no responses from anyone that I know. Sorry. I'll keep asking.
 
Well, I bit the bullet and ord'd myself a Carrot Stix. Not the hi-end model Boyd Duckett uses, but rather the $149 LTX spinning rod model. It's supposed to be in-stock at Tackle Warehouse this Friday and shipped to me as soon as they receive the shipment. The LTX 6'7" M model I ord'd had been out of stock for awhile, and they were waiting for a new shipment from e21.
 
Tox,



CASTAWAY? I thought you were a BPS guy now...lol



All,



Loomis/Kistler/All Star Platinum and Titanium rods are sensitive, light and prone to break. You see its about the graphite to resin mix in the rod. The resin is heavy and has a bit if dampening quality to it. The less you have, the lighter the rod and the more sensitive it becomes BUT the more brittle it becomes. You cant get around it.



The rod warranty on a Loomis is a $45 replacement fee (last I checked). Guess how much it costs to make a Loomis rod? You guessed it, $45. You are paying for a new rod, Loomis isnt making any money off of it. They did that on the front end in initial cost....



For all you All Star fans.....they are closing the Houston facility. I called it when they let me go....all rods will be made overseas. So much for the "Great American Rod Company!" trademark.



I have not fished a carrot stik yet, so I cannot comment on it. All I know is there are days I get REAL hungry out there....might be tempted to nibble on one if the situation requires it....lol



I have been using the Johnny Morris, Pro Qulaifier and Extreme rods for a few years now. After changing from All Stars (the US made ones) I can hardly tell the difference. Except for the guides. The TiCH guides on the old Titaniums were prone to losing and cracking of inserts. If you havent seen the Recoil guides on the JLM Elites (and some Loomis models) you need to look at them. No insert, Titanium nickle frame that can be bent and will pop right back to original shape. Lightweight, sensitive and incredibly tough. What more can you want from a guide (except the cost).







 
I am a BPS guy:lol::lol: But when they are talking Loomis and up $$ rods...CastAway will go toe to toe with them. Personally, I use only the T3 Titanium CastAway rods and they are twice as expensive as the Elites (It's ok, BPS ok'ed my CastAway sponsorship:lol: ). I have 30 BPS/Browning and 6 CastAway for that very reason. BTW, don't forget the Browning's, they are sweet rods/reels also. You better not go telling folks the real cost of all those high dollar Loomis rods, the truth is too much for some people to handle.:p:eek:



TOXIC
 
Twice as expensive does not gaurantee twice the quality or sensitivity.........it only means some folks are stupid enough to PAY twice as much 'cuz they BELIEVE it's twice as good. I would LOVE to see a survey taken among hardcore Loomis, Castaway, BPS, St.Croix, AllStar, etc..etc...anglers wearing blindfolds.....and see how many of them can ID THEIR rods via a simple test. I bet the vast majority would be embarrased by picking a different mfgr's rod as the BEST one.;)
 
So are you saying that you can keep your castaway deal AND still order the BPS rods?



Does castaway know this?



 
Mac - That Powerhump grip on the BPS rods would be pretty distinct in a blind comparison. One of the first things I do to mine is run them on a belt sander to eliminate some of the dead weight and get a more reasonable feel at the hilt. I know fellas that take them down a quarter inch and less off the blank. With the amount rods you and Mini have, it's worth trying it on one. You will see a dramatic difference on both the casting and spinning.
 
Yepper....considering how CastAway cut the program back this year it's hardly a sticking point. Let's just say I could not comfortably outfit my boat for clients and myself on what I get for a contract year. We have a lot to talk about when I get up North.



TOXIC
 

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