New Nitro owner with steering issue

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pcastle

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I just bought my first boat a 2007 nitro 750 with a 90hp mercury. I didn't test drive before buying and everything works great except the steering. It takes both hands and some effort to steer. Any ideas of why? Steers hard slow and on plane.
 
I just bought my first boat a 2007 nitro 750 with a 90hp mercury. I didn't test drive before buying and everything works great except the steering. It takes both hands and some effort to steer. Any ideas of why? Steers hard slow and on plane.

It can be a lot of things, let run through a bit of acheck list.

1. Is the steering is easier when not under power, so just sitting in the water turning lock to lock is it easy and smooth?
2. Do you have hydraulic, single cable or no feedback cable steering?
3. If not trimmed out enough on the plane, your steering will feel like someone is holding the motor.
4. If it's pulls to the right, adjust you trim tab to help compensate.

Let me know the answers and we can sort it from there for sure.
 
I had the same boat and motor, just sold it. I had the same issues. This is a problem most boats have with the ninty horse motor. I corrected the problem by starting out trimmed in and as the boat starts to plane out trim the motor up, this will reduce the load on the motor and reduce the steering pressure. I have seen this advise given to many people on many forums.
 
What you are experiencing is regardless of HP. You are encountering steering torque from the right hand prop rotation. Advise given above is correct. While throttling up, trim out and you'll notice the steering free up immensely. If not, there could be an issue with the rack or helm, barring any other hull or lower unit imperfections. Good luck! ;)
 
Thanks for the responses.
1. Is the steering is easier when not under power, so just sitting in the water turning lock to lock is it easy and smooth? It is very hard regardless even out of the water. I asked a couple boaters and one checked it and said something is defently not right.
2. Do you have hydraulic, single cable or no feedback cable steering? I'm not sure there is a piston with a grease fitting and an arm comes out and is connected to the motor. Not sure if this is considered hydraulic or not.
I looked on the internet and a suggestion was to disconnect the arm from the engine and see if the wheel turns easily. If not then the internet suggested replacing the steering cables and wheel.
Boat Motor.jpg
 
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Excellent PC, you're on the right track. It's either your cablr 9you do have cable steering) or the enginge is stiff.

Simply disconnect the steering arm form the end of the cable witht he nut that holds it on, the one right near your hand in the pic, then turn the engine side to side by hand and it should be very easy and free. That nut should not be too tight by the way, it's a nylock that should only just be seated so not to jam on the rod.

Next now try to turn the steering and it will be stiff if the cable has an isssue or free if not.

Let me know what the result is and I'll help you from there.
 
Excellent PC, you're on the right track. It's either your cablr 9you do have cable steering) or the enginge is stiff.

Simply disconnect the steering arm form the end of the cable witht he nut that holds it on, the one right near your hand in the pic, then turn the engine side to side by hand and it should be very easy and free. That nut should not be too tight by the way, it's a nylock that should only just be seated so not to jam on the rod.

Next now try to turn the steering and it will be stiff if the cable has an isssue or free if not.

Let me know what the result is and I'll help you from there.
Thanks, I will check it out on Saturday and let you know the outcome. Much appreciated!!
 
Concur with Toxic.

I had the same problems with my boat when I first got it, and felt it was just a torque issue, then it got so ridiculously hard to turn I actually hurt my shoulder, and it was flat out unsafe. I spent the money on new steering cables and it was like I was driving a new boat. It still pulls coming out of the hole, but I can hold it with one hand no problem. Once I trim it out, it's good to go, and I can actually steer the boat with one hand/finger now.

Goo and gunk just keep getting crammed down in those cables over the years as they go back and forth. If you're on your original set of cables at 6-years, it's about that time.
 
If the steering is hard as you state whether on plane or at idle it is the steering cable. It is not too hard to replace yourself if you have some time and a lift ring (and hoist) for the motor. I have an NX750 too so if you have any questions about the boat just ask away. I like mine and think you'll enjoy yours too.

RH
 
If the steering is hard as you state whether on plane or at idle it is the steering cable. It is not too hard to replace yourself if you have some time and a lift ring (and hoist) for the motor. I have an NX750 too so if you have any questions about the boat just ask away. I like mine and think you'll enjoy yours too.

RH
I haven't gotten to it yet but every video I've seen about replacing the cable makes it look like you don't have to lift the motor (will I?). Would you recommend spending the extra money to put in hyrdaulic steering? Thanks
 
To get the steering rod out of the steering tube, its almost a given if you want to make it easier on yourself without bending it. Now If I'm replacing it, then no, I just bend the crap out of it getting it out - BUT - you take the chance of scoring the inside of that tube which will afffect performance later. Motor only has to be lifted and shifted to the port side during cable removal and reassembly. I bought an engine lift just for the boats I have (I had several projects going on) with a double sling. Makes the work so much easier especially with a friend. It can be done in under an hour total time, but doesn't include the time up under the console area.

I only installed NFB steering components - never done hydraulic so I'll let others comment on that aspect
 
In a lot of cases you don't have to lift the motor, it just depends on the cable being able to go back into the hole that's cut into the side of the well. Sometimes you can loosen and pivot a little if necessary.
In my opinion, hydraulic is the best way by far and I did this to
My Z 6 and it's been great. Well worth the money to me.
 
If you can afford hydraulic steering, I'd look into the Baystar system by Teleflex. Although it is not recommended for bass boats, your boat with a 90HP will be fine. UFlex makes a comparable product but without the "no bass boat" limitation. Both run $500-600 plus install.

RH
 
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I haven't gotten to it yet but every video I've seen about replacing the cable makes it look like you don't have to lift the motor (will I?). Would you recommend spending the extra money to put in hyrdaulic steering? Thanks

I changed from cable steering to hydraulic on both of the Bass boats I've owned. I installed the hydraulic steering myself. I removed the cable steering without removing the motor. I just used a Dremel with a carbon cutting disk and cut that puppy right off. It went through it like butter. I covered the boat with a wet blanket and let er rip. Pulled the cable out and it was done. It was too easy to pay a mechanic $80+ an hour to do. Whole job took me about two hours.

NJD
 
Thanks everyone. I went ahead and having Hydraulic installed. Since I have no experience with Boats I went ahead and paid for the "insurance" of having it installed for me. I'll test it this weekend. Hopefully as time goes by my confidence will increase and I can start doing these types of things myself.
 
You've made a wise decision, you'll love the smooth feel and the security of not having to grip it like a pole dancer
Took the boat out on Sunday. Yes I'm very glad to have invested the $800 bucks.
 

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