New Bunk Boards

[rbstern]

Lifted my Larson bowrider off the trailer this weekend to prep for bottom paint. Found the bunks were in fair shape. Some rot has set in after 10 years. Figure I might as well replace the boards while I have the boat suspended off the trailer.

Current plan is to get 2x6 PT and cover it with marine bunk carpet. Normally, I'd just use stainless staples, but the current carpet is glued, so I'm contemplating doing it

Any thoughts on does and don'ts?

 

[Major Mark]

As your Larson is glass, you could use pressure treated lumber, but for those of us with tin boats, PT is a no-no. The chemicals used to treat it reacts badly with aluminum. Also would depend on what your trailer is made of, steel, galvanized, or aluminum. I'd use staples and only do about an 80% wrap leaving the bottom open to help with drying of the bunks. Just my opinion...

 

[rbstern]

Thanks, MM.

Trailer is painted steel. It's a very good paint job, though, as the treated bunks on there haven't caused any corrosion on the steel supports (model year 2005 trailer that I've owned since 2007). Carpet I bought is sized to leave most of the 2x6 bottoms exposed, so good to go. Gonna skip the glue and just staple to the boards.

 

[rbstern]

Got the bunks done this morning. All of it came together really well. Boat is back on the trailer. Lowering it back onto the trailer was actually more work than jacking it off the trailer.

Glad it's done.

Next, a topside bath and dewinterizing, and then launch.

 

[firedog978]

I've replaced my bunks a couple of times.
Bought the PT boards and carpet. Cut to size (for trailer) at home. Gave all boards a good
coat of protectant. Cut and covered new bunks (leaving 2" un-carpeted on bottom) SS staples.
Bought new SS hardware for attaching bunks.
Went to ramp, launched and tied up boat. Had all new bunks, tools (charged up) and hardware in truck.
Removed old bunks and installed new in 30 minutes.
Sweet and easy. Have done this twice in 16 years.
I've also gotten in the habit when I park truck and trailer after launch, to check for any loose bunk boards.
I never see anyone else ever check bunks after parking rig. It only takes 10 seconds to do that. Sure does give piece of mind to me.

 

[BillM2]

Time for me to do this also. I saw a tip from someone who used an old bicycle tube, cut in sections, placed between PT wood and trailer bracket to help protect from the chemical reaction.

Anyone have a good recommendation for replacement carpet? I see the usual stuff, CE Smith, Fulton. My neighbor used the first one last year and it is already wearing away. Very thin stuff.

 

[rbstern]

Here's what I used:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200314312_200314312

Was happy with the product quality at install time, obviously can't give any longevity info, since it's only four months old at this point. It's been sitting in the weather since launch, with no ill effects showing.

 

[Jerry Carpenter2]

You can change them out in the drive way. Take a 4 x 4 and saw the contour to match your transom. then use a floor jack to raise the boat up off of bunk boards. Just don't get to crazy with the height. Remove one at a time.

 

[Larry Williams]

Within the first three months of my 2017, Z-18 purchase, I discovered that one of the 2 ,new, center bunks was badly split at the back, appearing to done at the factory install a bolt. I contacted the dealer and was told that they "might" replace it under warranty. I noticed that the wood used was a very cheap looking soft wood. I asked about having treated wood installed and dealer claims that they can't do that due to EPA requirements. I decided to replace both the centers myself. I found the 8' treated, padded and wrapped bunks on Amazon for about $100. Got them quickly and did a little re-drilling to use better hardware rather than try and replace the one cheapo. I've said all this to get to a point- get under your late model boat and have a look at how they installed and the current condition. Without using quality, treated wood they have a very short life if you get them wet once a week.

 

[1stindoor]

Like Firedog, I've done it the same way. Although I used both glue and SS staples. I also used silicon sealant on my bolts since I was drilling into the wood. By the time I got back to the boat ramp the silicon was dry and I was good for another bazillion trips to the lake.