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Need dash pictures for a 2000 700 LX SC

Thread in 'Nitro & Tracker Owners' started by Steven McCabe, Jun 20, 2014.

  1. Steven McCabe

    Steven McCabe Member

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    Hello all. I am new here and looking for a little help. I just purchased my first boat which is a 2000 Nitro 700 LX SC with a 115 Mercury 2 stroke. I purchased the boat from an older couple who's son had completely unhooked every piece of electrical under the dash. All of my gauges are disconnected, I am missing the ignition switch, and switch panel on the right side of the steering wheel. I believe the fuse panel was removed, I have a small panel but I am not even sure where it goes. My first goal is to get the igniton switch hooked up but I am clueless as to how the harness was routed or what goes where. I was hoping another member could possibly post some pictures of under their dash and possibly the back side of the dash to show the gauges. Thanks in advance. any and all help is greatly appreciated. I will attach some pictures of what I am dealing with.
    20140620_174143[1].jpg 20140620_174133[1].jpg 20140620_174133[1].jpg
     
  2. cq

    cq Well-Known Member

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  3. Steven McCabe

    Steven McCabe Member

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    Thanks!!! This will definitely help. I just wish I could find a diagram for the engine so I could wire the ignition switch. It just seems like every diagram I can find its never for the right motor. I have a 115 Mercury 4 cylinder with EFI. Most of the diagrams I find have wires labeled for magnetos and chokes which I am new to boats but I am pretty sure an EFI engine wouldn't have either one of those. I have manage to figure out that the red/purple is 12 volts constant and my yellow/red is my starter signal wire. I just wish I could find someone out there with the same or similar boat and I could put my eyes on it...
     
  4. AirForce

    AirForce Well-Known Member

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    I didn't realize they ripped ALL the wiring out. So the ignition switch is totally gone? I mean wiring in another one isn't too bad but follow the main motor harness from the engine up to the controls. If you're not versed or feel comfortable with the wiring, this isn't something you want to tackle right off the bat. Show me a picture of the type of throttle controls you have. If it ONLY has a shift/throttle cable coming from it to the engine thats ok, but you'll have a big round cable coming from the motor to near the console area. Main part of it goes to the ignition switch (please say its just unhooked rather than CUT OFF). That would be where I'd take it to a shop to put on an ignition switch.

    Also show closer pics of your connections/connectors /wire ends (not too close) but not far away like your current pics.
     
  5. cq

    cq Well-Known Member

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  6. Steven McCabe

    Steven McCabe Member

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    Thanks for the help so far. I am still struggling though. I am well versed in wiring. I was a ford mechanic for 7 years and being a young one I received most of the nightmare electrical issues. My problem is I'm am just trying to figure out the ignition. I can figure out most of the gauge stuff and trim, live well/bilge pumps, etc. I just want to know how to hook up my ignition switch and fuse block. Most of the stuff I find is for older mercury 115s that are carbureted. I will attach a picture of the harness that comes from the engine that I am trying to decipher. I am also trying to figure out how to wire the fuse panel in. I would think the the panel would be hot all the time but I am not sure if the ignition switch provides power to the panel... Really I just want to know what the grey, red, purple, black, black/yellow, yellow/red, tan/blue, yellow/black, brown/white, tan wires go to. The red wire is 12v and the yellow/red is the starter. That is all I know... Thanks again
     

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    Last edited: Jun 21, 2014
  7. Steven McCabe

    Steven McCabe Member

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    Here is a similar diagram of the wires I have. The wires I am referring to are in the red box. I actually have a few wires more than this.... I have a brown/white and a tan wire. the brown/white goes down to the lower unit area through the bottom of the engine cowl and the tan goes to two black/yellow wires that runs back up towards the regulators and coil packs.... mercury wires.png
     
  8. AirForce

    AirForce Well-Known Member

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    That's inside the inside the engine cowl, do you NOT have the main cable that plugs to that to the console area? Ignition does NOT provide power to the fuse panel. Panel is wired directly to the starting battery with a fused link near the battery. My impression was all your wiring problems was at the console area? Please confirm you have a big molded cable coming from that plug in your motor diagram to somewhere near the console. Only 3 wires will have any bearing on your gauges and none for the fuse panel. Those 3 wires will be Gray (Tach), Black and Purple (Ignition or Switch-on HOT). As you said the fuse panel would be HOT all time because of a direct connection to the starting battery. Ground from that starting battery will also go to the fuse panel ground bar. Please show a picture (not a diagram) of that cable plug or confirm there is a round cable plugged into the motor plug.
     
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  9. cq

    cq Well-Known Member

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    Keep the faith, they (my outlaws) lifted the pontoon and broke wires and said: "I don't know". It makes for a interesting fun project. This is the quote I love: "I just went out there and nothing, I don't know. When do you think you can get it fixed?" I get a lot of perks from my family so I just get a small cooler with iced beverages, volt/amp meter and set on the dock with my feet in the water and trouble shoot from ground zero. And they call this retirement. LOL!!!!

    cq
     
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  10. Steven McCabe

    Steven McCabe Member

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    I do have the main harness that comes all the way to the dash pannel. If you see the pics I poseted above the one where I am holding the wires in my hand is the harness coming from the engine. After my hand is the big hard connector. It connects to another conenctor (dash harness) where many of those wires where cut on the other side. Good news though. I actually got the engine to fire last night for a second. It was late and loud so I only let it run for litteraly one second. I was so happy just to hear it run. Tonight I will mess with it some more. I ended up buying another ignition switch (picture and diagram below) and after looking at many pictures and links I went for it and hooked some wires to it. Hopefully I can get it running good tonight then I will be on to wiring in the fuse panel and figuring out what size fuses to put on each circuit. I just wish I could figure out what the brown/white and tan/blue wire goes to coming from the main engine harness... Also is there a way to know If the motor is mixing oil in the gas. I am just affraid I have missed connecting a wire and I do not want to lean the motor out. Should i premix some gas in my small gas tank for the initial start and run??
     

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  11. Steven McCabe

    Steven McCabe Member

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    Haha I agree. I have family like that as well. But instead of boats it is their cars I have to fix. They run them ragged until they stop and then I have to fix the stuff after its 10 times worse than it should of been because they just kept driving it.
     
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  12. Steven McCabe

    Steven McCabe Member

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    Little update. I actualy just found a pdf service manual for my engine with all of the wiring diagrams. This is going to help me tons. I will update you all once I get a chance to start hooking these wires up. :)
     
  13. Steven McCabe

    Steven McCabe Member

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    So I have been messing with the boat for the last week as much as I could after work. I finally got the ignition switch all wired in and working. Then it would only run for about a second each time. So I took the carbs off and of course the previous owner didn't winterize the boat like he told me. So I cleaned all the carbs and put it back together. Now I could get it to run but for only like 3 seconds a time now. So I rebuilt the fuel pump. Now it was running for like 5 seconds. So I bought the kits for the carbs and rebuilt all of them. Found a port in the bottom of the bowl I had missed that was completely clogged on all of them. Put them back on and walah. It runs. Now I don't have any water flowing. So I pulled the lower unit off and replaced the impeller and metal plate and gaskets. Now I have water. Just too much. My valve cover gasket is leaking around my top spark plug and water is coming out of the spark plug threads..... So that is where I am at. I am going to replace the valve cover gasket and thermostat and then see what this thing throws at me next. I guess the saying I heard is true... Boats are money pits. Lol I just hope I get this engine straight after this considering the engine was supposed to be the last of my worries and the electrical was my big obstacle. I really haven't messed with any of the gauges I have just been focusing on getting this thing running. After I put the valve cover gasket on I will start on the dash wiring again. I am also in the process of selling and buying a new house so my time is limited. Thanks again guys for all the help. I will update everybody when I can.
     
  14. AirForce

    AirForce Well-Known Member

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    Need to replace every piece of fuel line at the same time, then clean the carbs, replace filters. I think from what you described, that engine isn't near being ready for prime time. Hope you didn't give much for it. I think I'd look for repowering that boat rather then keep pissing money at that motor. They'll take that motor on trade in or take it off, strip it down and sell parts on ebay (get a LOT more money for it that way). Just think of a brand new 4 stroke (if you do trolling for fish) or an Optimax if you go WOT a lot.
     
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  15. cq

    cq Well-Known Member

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    I guess lighting struck my project; rectifier fried, starter solenoid fried and now the battery is missing. LOL! Love it!!!


    cq
     
  16. AirForce

    AirForce Well-Known Member

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    You mentioned you didn't know if the motor was mixing gas and oil (has an oiler?) To know if its capable of oiling does it have a oil tank on the motor? Provide a serial # of the motor. I'd highly recommend buying a Mercury OEM Service Manual if you intend on doing work on it yourself. Since this is a 2 stroke then you'd want to insure you're mixing 50:1 until you've verified your oiler system is working correctly.

    Until I see a serial #, can't help much with the motor but I can give you a couple of links. One for FAQ - LOTS of helpful info and a link to ordering parts (and that OEM Service Manaul) http://www.bbcboards.net/mercury-3-...-posts-look-here-first-updated-06-2014-a.html
    http://www.bbcboards.net/mercury-3-...r-price-mercury-engine-parts-accessories.html
     
  17. Steven McCabe

    Steven McCabe Member

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    Update: Sorry guys I have been super busy lately between the boat and my daughters and selling my house/buying my new house. I have the boat ready for its maiden voyage. I tried yesterday but the drain plug I bought at Walmart wouldn't work. I had just picked one up and never checked it and of course my boat takes to threaded type. So I went to Bass Pro Shops last night and bought the right one and glued it in last night. Now my buddy that is supposed to be towing my boat this morning I guess is sleeping in. So I hope he wakes up soon so we can go. I ll put up some pictures soon.
     
  18. Steven McCabe

    Steven McCabe Member

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    Another question for you all. So I finally think I have this thing running okay and everything working. The perdicament I am in now deals with the prop. When I bought the boat it came with two props, neither of them installed. Both are Stainless Steel Laser II. One is a 24 pitch and the other is a 26 pitch. I test ran it with the 26 pitch and it wouldnt even plane out and was like maxed at 3000 rpms. I strated with the 26p becuase it was in better shape. I want to try the 24 pitch but I just noticed the guts are different. They both ar 15 spline but the 24 pitch has long splines and it doesnt appear to take that spacer/thrust washer. The 26p prop takes the thrust washer then the prop then the lock washer and nut. My question is will I do damage using either prop. Everything I read suggest that I need the spacer/thrust washer, then the prop, then the lock washer and nut. But I am pretty sure the 24p prop is the original prop for my boat but it doesnt appear that that setup will work. My engine serial number is 0T050880. The two props I have are 48-16996 26p, and 48 16994 A40 24P. Thanks in advance for any help.
     
  19. Dewayne H

    Dewayne H New Member

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    I have a 1997 nitro 700lx with 120 tracker force 2 stroke with same dash also have a clymer mercury/mariner 2 stroke outboard shop manual 1994-1997 75Hp-275Hp . Has a 150-200 EFI fuel management system components and wiring diagram in it. wood be glad to send picture of it to you,email address?
     
  20. Dewayne H

    Dewayne H New Member

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