How to build a spinnerbait from scrach - Build Along

[TritonGlenn]

As promised, lets build a spinnerbait from scratch. The first thing we need to do is get our supplies together. Now, this will depend on whether you are putting together a pre-poured/painted head and components, or building everything from scratch. If you are simply building one from pre-poured/painted head and components, you can still jump in later in this build along. However, we are going to start from ground zero on this build.



To build from scratch, we are going to need powder paint. There are MANY colors available:

Stainless steel wire. You can buy pre-bent wire, but you are limited to the wire size available (normally .032 to .035), and you can

 

[Teri C.]

Is that one mine?



I am no longer upset about paying $3.99 for a spinnerbait!



Great write up!

 

[TritonGlenn]

Teri,

That one and five of it's friends should be to you no later than Thursday of this week.

Thanks for the comment. Glad you enjoyed.

All the best,

Glenn

 

[ND Bass]

Glenn, thanks for all the work. Looks easier than I thought it was going to be.

Question: what do you estimate it costs you to build a lure assuming someone already has a pot to melt the lead, torch/heat source for paint, the bending tool and other tools?



My son was facinated reviewing this with me.

 

[TritonGlenn]

NDBass,

After the initial cost of buying all the equipment, tools, etc... I had to figure the costs out for my books (I used to have a business doing this). A spinnerbait cost me between $2.25 and $2.85 to build, depending on the size lure being built and colors involved. If I used larger blades and premium skirt material (halo, prints, etc...), the cost was at the high end.



An average 3/8 oz spinnerbait with #3 and #5 blades, using quality skirt material, the best blades I could buy, premium hook, Sampo ball-bearing swivel, etc... cost me about $2.50 to build. If you used lesser quality blades, swivel, and skirt material, you could further reduce that price.



When I started doing this, I didn't build to keep the costs down. I started building my own because I couldn't find anyone that offered what I wanted in a spinnerbait. Every one of them had hooks that were either too small, not sharp, poorly designed, etc... After I started building them, friends got interested in what I was making, so I got a business license and started building and selling them. What I didn't realize when I started this is that all lures manufactured are subject to excise tax, which I had to pay and file quarterly. That ate up a lot of the profit. If you are building them for $2.50, charging $3.50 to a dealer so he can sell them for $4.00 and still make his profit, PLUS you pay a tax on every lure you build, you just don't turn a huge profit. Especially making each and every one by hand like I do. It just wasn't worth it in the end, and I finally closed the small home-business.



I only make them for myself and friends now, and I really enjoy making them. It's more enjoyable when you don't have a deadline and orders to fill.



All the best,

Glenn



Edited today to add - I started buying blades in bulk at some point in this evolution (1000 count), as well as bulk skirt material and Sampo swivels. At that point, the annotations on cost in my notebook dropped the cost of a 1/4 oz spinnerbait to $1.66, and a 3/8 oz spinnerbait to $1.74.

 

[ND Bass]

Interesting. I wasn't going after the business angle but thanks for that insight. Thanks again!

 

[Baja 252]

Very Interesting, thanks for taking the time to post this.

 

[Mike Clayton]

Glenn....Nice job...great pictures along with great narrative"s, I'm with Teri 3.99 doesn't sound to bad after seeing the process.....

 

[Bob G.]

Very nice tuturial and great pics to go with it!

 

[TOMMY RICH]

Nice job Glenn...good info

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

Great job bro. Now if you would only use SPRO swivels...:lol: What would the impact, if any, would the swivel size have? Reason I ask is that SPRO is known for their high quality swivels that have more strength in a smaller size. Weight? hydrodynamics?



TOXIC

 

[Herndonpro]

Glenn



Do you ever twist the wire at the line tie? If so how is it done?



Steve

 

[Bill Hamilton]

Glenn - You just have too much time on your hands. Go fishing

 

[Texas Transplant]

Great information.



Tex

 

[Dan J.]

Looks great Glenn! Do you pour any keel weighted or burner head blanks? For those I'd recommend wire tying the skirts. (I use a single strand of 12g twisted copper.) You really did an excellent project analysis and breakdown. Kudos and thanks!!

 

[Greg. Avery]

Great job Glenn ,just wished I had the equipment to do it looks like fun. Thanks :wacko:

 

[TritonGlenn]

Now if you would only use SPRO swivels... What would the impact, if any, would the swivel size have? Reason I ask is that SPRO is known for their high quality swivels that have more strength in a smaller size. Weight? hydrodynamics?

Tox,

I use a #2 Sampo swivel, which is the smallest size I would recommend using. The restriction on size has to do with the split rings more than the actual swivel. The split rings on a #2 Sampo fill the entire hole on the swivel. I couldn't put a larger split ring in that hole, and I really wouldn't want to go any smaller (due to strength).



I originally bought Sampo swivels in bulk, so I have quite a few left over.



HOWEVER... if you could get your hands on some #2 sized SPRO's with split rings on each end, I'd be more than happy to build some baits with them... and of course - send you a few for your trouble.



All the best,

Glenn

 

[bob szymakowski]

GREAT GREAT JOB showing the stuff it takes....having been with the original HAWG CALLER BAITS from NC.............I KNOW exactly what you are showing......thanks and best fishes bob szymakowski:blink:

 

[TritonGlenn]

Do you ever twist the wire at the line tie? If so how is it done?

Steve,

I do not twist my wire for the line tie. I never cared for the twist loop vice R bend because my line would inevitably get wedged in it right about the time a big ol' bucketmouth inhaled it. :lol:



However, I do have a tool for that too, as I do twist some wire for other types of lures. I know that I can use it to make twists in spinnerbait wire, as I have filled one order in the past for it, but I really don't like to do it on a spinnerbait due to wire size (I'm restricted to using the tool for wire sizes less than .032, which some of my spinnerbait wire is... but it's at the maximum size). It actually weakens the wire at the twist point due to how tight the wire is being wrapped. I've snapped a few by putting in the twists. You have to go slow and easy.



However, you can buy pre-bent wire with the twisted loop already in it if you decide to go that route.



All the best,

Glenn

 

[TritonGlenn]

Do you pour any keel weighted or burner head blanks? For those I'd recommend wire tying the skirts. (I use a single strand of 12g twisted copper.)

Dan,

I do pour some keel weighted and hidden head weights. I have a 7/8 ounce bait that looks like it has a 3/8 oz head, but the rest of it is behind the skirt collar. I have never tried tying the skirts, but on those, I probably should. They are a bear to get a skirt collar over the hidden part, and I've popped a few collars trying to get them in place.



You lost me a little on the "single strand... twisted..." part. Are you saying that you are pulling a single strand of copper wire out of a twisted bundle and using that? I may have to try that out. Thanks for the tip!



All the best,

Glenn

 

[TritonGlenn]

...just wished I had the equipment to do it looks like fun.

Greg,

You could always buy pre-poured / painted heads and the components and put them together. That way, you would only need a couple of pairs of pliers for tools. I'd recommend one small needle nose, and one small round nose. Those two pliers and some components, and you could build your own to see if you like it.



All the best,

Glenn

 

[Herndonpro]

Glenn



Thanks for the reply. If you were painting blades would you use the powder paint for that?



Steve

 

[Jody Woodruff]

Good stuff! Never gave much thought to the work involved in making a spinnerbait.

 

[TritonGlenn]

Steve,

Powder would be too thick on blades. At least mine is. Blades are also hard to dip. The convex side always seems to escape the powder. I airbrush mine with model laquer, and then spray a coat of clear laquer over them. I've seen powder painted blades, but I don't know how they are doing it. I guess it's more like a flame spray and powder vice powder dip. Nowadays, I just buy pre-painted blades, as the only ones I use are secondary #2 or #3 Colorado blades in florescent red or chartreuse.

All the best,

Glenn

 

[Dan J.]

Are you saying that you are pulling a single strand of copper wire out of a twisted bundle and using that?

Yes. With a single strand of twisted copper 12 guage wire I go completely around the skirt to base twice, then twist to tight (6-7 good twists) and cut the end laying that tab end flat against bait shaft towards tail. That twisted, cut tab end left over makes a great trailer lock for a tail, if adding one. (Use your needlenose to bend the twisted wire tip end up for a "J" barb.) The only downside is skirt replacement (cut & re-twist a must), but 99.9% of the time I tie on a different bait instead of swapping skirts for a color change. The skirt really stays put without shifting (great if you like to contour your skirts) while burning a bait. (So will a ballyhoo trolled for hours offshore. :lol: ) Again, what a great write up and tackle tech post!

 

[Jimmy Easterling]

Two questions: other than weight, does it matter if you use hollow beads or solid and did you say #2 split rings? Great write up, I have been thinking about making some of my lures, now I have no excuse not to since I have directions. I've also been thinking about turning a crankbait, got the skinny on that also. Thanks.

 

[TritonGlenn]

JimmyE,

Solid metal beads do add weight, as well as cost, and you can't always find the same finishes.



As an example of cost -



5/32" Hollow Metal Beads in Gold finish (pack of 100) cost $2.00 at Stamina.



There is no listing for Gold finish solid beads. However, you can buy solid Brass beads (which may tarnish over time) for $10.80 (10 packs of 10 to equal the same amount as above).



So, to use solid beads from Stamina vice hollow, you are looking at an $8.80 increased cost for a 100 count, they aren't the same quality finish, and they will throw off the balance of the lure. One or two solid beads might not throw off the balance - but throw 7 of them on there like in my example - that will more than likely make a huge difference. It did in the case of the 1/4 and 3/8 oz lures I tried it on. They wanted to roll on the retrieve.



Now solid plastic is another story. I use those all the time. See the picture in the demo with all the colored plastic beads - those are all solid 4mm.



To be perfectly honest, I don't remember what size split rings are on my ball bearing swivels. I can't find my size chart, and I ordered them in such a huge bulk order many years ago, that I haven't had the need to order more lately. The SWIVEL size is a #2. I know that for certain. I have a new catalog on the way with size charts in the back. When it comes in, I can verify what size split rings these are.



Crankbaits.... Yep. I sure do. I've only built flat side crankbaits with circuit board lips though. I've never built a round side crankbait (yet). If there is any interest in that, I can always do a crankbait build along too.



I also build my own jigs, some rods, etc... If anyone is interested in a build along at a later date.



I'd like to see someone who hand-pours worms give a build-along on that. Anyone???



All the best,

Glenn

 

[Jimmy Easterling]

Well Glenn, I ordered all my stuff and it should be here Tuesday. A friend gave me five 5 pound "bricks" of lead that is stamped "virgin" on the top and about 100 feet of SS welding wire .035, I ordered .031 and will try both. I will post pics when I get one built right, might take a couple of tries. Thanks for the post and I do want to give a crank bait a try. I have a lathe and plan to turn it but am sure I will have to do some carving.

 

[Jimmy Easterling]

I failed horribly on the first try. I think the lead was not hot enough, power paint was too thick and the oven melted the excess to create a flat side on the head. I finished it anyway and will try again tomorrow.

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

Practice & patience Grasshoppah!!:lol:



TOXIC