Help wiring LiPo's! Sparks!?

[marottadc]

Hello everyone! New member here and happy to be here amongst the community. I purchased a used 1995 Nitro last year and have made a few changes to it. I am updating the batteries and need some help!
Two 100ah Amped Outdoors lithium batteries and 1 lead acid (cranking to the outboard) are in the stern compartment with the gas tank.
I would like the 2 LiPO’s to run:
1. the trolling motor
2. Two fish finders
3. A livescope
4. Fuse Box with some deck lights
I would like these batteries to be connected to a 4 position switch so I can make sure they don’t drain when not in use or just sitting for a week or two.
The trolling motor is a 12/24v combo that can be switched to 12v, 24v or "off" from the foot pedal at the bow of the boat.
The 2 batteries do not need to be ran in series for the trolling motor to do this (60 lb. MotorGuide trolling motor - original to the boat I believe). I believe it is done within the trolling motor itself.
I have attached a diagram of my setup. I set this up today (minus the fuse box and accessories as shown in the diagram. I will do this this week) and when I turned the switch to position 1 (battery for the 12 volt leg of the trolling motor) there was a spark at the positive terminal of the battery.

Question 1: Is there something wrong with my setup?
Question 2: Can I accomplish this with a 4 position switch? The 2 trolling motor positives are on the same "output" post on the 4 position switch.
Question 3: The charger is connected to each battery. Will it still be able to charge the batteries with the switch in the “OFF” position?
Question 4: right now the batteries are in the stern of the boat right next to the gas tank. With LiPo’s I am concerned with them catching fire and not being able to put them out. Can they be mounted in the bow of the boat under the deck? There is less/no “ventilation” in the bow, but the stern gets water in there that needs to get bilged out and again is next to the gas tank. The old batteries were all in the stern compartment. If I can move them to the front I would do that and shorten the wires for the trolling motor and reuse them for the fuse box instead of buying more wire! Thank you!

 

[marottadc]

I think I got it figured out. I was using a switch that turned 2 batteries on at the same time, but put them in parallel. I bought a new switch that has 4 terminal posts that just turns 2 batteries on at the same time but doesn't connect the 2 batteries in any way. It all appears to be working!

 

[CincyGus]

Generally trolling motor is run with it's own batteries and graphs are run off the starting motor battery. TM's and Graphs sharing batteries usually end up with the owner complaining about interference on their graphs.

 

[Cyco]

Agree with Cincygus.

I'd run the TM off just one battery. (12v) Other battery to feed a new fuse box, off that feed chartplotter, livescope, lights. Switch on dash for lights and one for livescope (i keep mine off when not in use) I'd get rid of the main switch.

I'm just not sure about running 2 in series for 24v then only pulling off one battery to feed12v stuff. Don't feel its effective or even proper. Lol

Unless your just running them in parallel, then try running it all off the 200 ah bank you created. But, then your TM is still only 12v, so you might as well keep batteries seperate like I originally stated. Also, less chance for interface.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[Joe Winkler]

Hello everyone! New member here and happy to be here amongst the community. I purchased a used 1995 Nitro last year and have made a few changes to it. I am updating the batteries and need some help!
Two 100ah Amped Outdoors lithium batteries and 1 lead acid (cranking to the outboard) are in the stern compartment with the gas tank.
I would like the 2 LiPO’s to run:
1. the trolling motor
2. Two fish finders
3. A livescope
4. Fuse Box with some deck lights
I would like these batteries to be connected to a 4 position switch so I can make sure they don’t drain when not in use or just sitting for a week or two.
The trolling motor is a 12/24v combo that can be switched to 12v, 24v or "off" from the foot pedal at the bow of the boat.
The 2 batteries do not need to be ran in series for the trolling motor to do this (60 lb. MotorGuide trolling motor - original to the boat I believe). I believe it is done within the trolling motor itself.
I have attached a diagram of my setup. I set this up today (minus the fuse box and accessories as shown in the diagram. I will do this this week) and when I turned the switch to position 1 (battery for the 12 volt leg of the trolling motor) there was a spark at the positive terminal of the battery.

Question 1: Is there something wrong with my setup?
Question 2: Can I accomplish this with a 4 position switch? The 2 trolling motor positives are on the same "output" post on the 4 position switch.
Question 3: The charger is connected to each battery. Will it still be able to charge the batteries with the switch in the “OFF” position?
Question 4: right now the batteries are in the stern of the boat right next to the gas tank. With LiPo’s I am concerned with them catching fire and not being able to put them out. Can they be mounted in the bow of the boat under the deck? There is less/no “ventilation” in the bow, but the stern gets water in there that needs to get bilged out and again is next to the gas tank. The old batteries were all in the stern compartment. If I can move them to the front I would do that and shorten the wires for the trolling motor and reuse them for the fuse box instead of buying more wire! Thank you!

Dies your charger say it's for lithium batterys? I see it is hooked to all your batterys, wet cell, and the two Lithium. With out the proper charger that has switches each battery you will be on fire soon.

 

[Cyco]

Dies your charger say it's for lithium batterys? I see it is hooked to all your batterys, wet cell, and the two Lithium. With out the proper charger that has switches each battery you will be on fire soon.

Yes, good point. You cannot use regular chargers on lithium batteries.


Btw: just picked up the Dakota Lithuim 10amp 4 bank charger, works awesome. Eliminated having 3 separate chargers for my Dakota Lithuims. I still use the onboard charger that came with boat for the starter bat.

 

[cceguy]

I had a Guide trolling motor like yours. You do need two batteries. If you follow the cables, you should find 2 red and 2 black cables (probably 6 gauge) that go from the batteries in the stern to the bow along the port side. The foot pedal controls whether the motor gets 12 or 24 volts. My setup had the battery wires going to a control box mounted near the batteries that had separate circuit breakers and a disconnect for each trolling motor battery. From the control box, 4 wires went to the bow.
I think you should use the LiPOs dedicated to the trolling motor.
About 6 weeks ago I bought 2 100ah lithium batteries for my 24-volt trolling motor. They are called 'Minis' because they are 25% smaller than a regular lithium but provide the same power. They weigh 21 lbs each, and are 6.5x10 inches. With a little modification, I replaced a group 29 battery with both of the lithiums, and eliminated a 10 ft run of cable for the second lead acid battery. After running the trolling motor about 25 hours, I still had 75% charge left.
If you can move the batteries closer to the trolling motor, that can't hurt.
I wouldn't worry about putting out a battery fire near the gas tank. I would worry about whether I can swim fast enough to save myself.