Help loading and launching a Nitro185fs

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Tony banks

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Hey guys, each time I try to launch or load my Nitro185f&s, the winch rollerstrikes my trolling motor mount, almost tearing it off. I have to pick up on the front of my boat, so it clears the bow roller. My local bass pro dealer says, I'm backing the trailer in too deep, but it seems like launching shallower, will only make the boat contact the bow roller, more. I have thought about cutting off the base of the wench support to make it and the bow roller shorter, but it's a nitro trailer on a nitro boat, so it shouldn't require cutting and welding the trailer to make it work. I checked my trailer pads, they are not adjustable. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated ,
Thanks, Mach!
 

FastZ8

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They make after market trailer parts that are a lot better than what Nitro comes with. I think that I have seen them on the TH Marine website. I know Tactical Bassin on YouTube did a video on replacing it too. I do not have any problem with my Z8, I did however have to replace them with my Skeeter.
 

Robert Jenks

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Hey guys, each time I try to launch or load my Nitro185f&s, the winch rollerstrikes my trolling motor mount, almost tearing it off. I have to pick up on the front of my boat, so it clears the bow roller. My local bass pro dealer says, I'm backing the trailer in too deep, but it seems like launching shallower, will only make the boat contact the bow roller, more. I have thought about cutting off the base of the wench support to make it and the bow roller shorter, but it's a nitro trailer on a nitro boat, so it shouldn't require cutting and welding the trailer to make it work. I checked my trailer pads, they are not adjustable. Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated ,
Thanks, Mach!
I had the same problem and added an adjustable bow support behind the bow roller with a roller that took all the weight off of the bow, now comes off without banging the winch roller. I hope this helps.
 

bigmikejones

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Try using a drop hitch on trailer. This will allow the front of the trailer to sit lower and help some. Also not all boat ramps are on the same angle. This plays into it as well. I have same luck at different ramps. Best thing I can suggest is back trailer all the way back to submerge all the bunk boards then pull back up slightly to just having the fenders exposed or like 1" under water. Then drive up near the front. Get out and pull truck up some and hand winch the rest of the way. Will save front of boat and trolling motor.
 

Kerz

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^ good advice.
Also your dealer could very well be correct i.e., backing the trailer in too far.
Vic
 

kamboat64

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I had the same issue with my 185 F/S and I was backing into the water too far. I back in now where about the top 1/3 of my fenders are out of the water and now I have no problems.
 

Tony banks

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Which trailer parts are you suggesting i might want to change out. I hadn,t thought about adding another bow roller, but that might be a solution. Also, I might be driving the trailer in too deep. I usually back in, then pull up just leaving the tops of the fenders out of the water. So, i will practice loading and unloading at different trailer depths. I love the boat, but this is the first boat I've ever had a problem with, loading and unloading
 

Cub48

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My boat 2016 Z18 is doing the same thing. I have owned boats for years and i have tried different positions. It's either the roller is too high or the pads are too low. The last time i left the trailer in where the top tires were at water level The boat made it about a foot from the roller i put strap on it and pulled boat up, when it got to the roller the roller was at the rub rail this is telling me that something is not right. The Stratos I just sold I could set the fenders with the top of fender just at water level and it would go all the way to the loop put strap on and tighten. Most trailers have adjustable front rollers and bunks. Has anyone lowered their roller post and if so how much? Cub48
 

Tony banks

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Exactly my issue. I have loaded other brands of boat and never had this problem. I'm thinking cutting off my winch / roller post, might be the fix, too?
 

Cub48

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Today i took my winch post off and measured from the loop to the trailer and the winch post roller to trailer was about an inch difference. i drilled a new hole and cut the roller support off where the old bolt was dropped it about an inch didn't help a bit. I put the trailer with fender top at water level lined up boat then with motor trimmed hit the gas hit roller square into rub rail. Ramp wasn't busy so unloaded boat again backed trailer back in with fender top lip at water level pulled up let line up hit gas boat went up to within an a inch of roller put strap on and it just pulled it clear of rub rail. in other words it is still too high. The thing is when the boat is completely on trailer the post is not too high and if I lower it any more it would be pulling the front down!! Now I am thinking bunks are too low in front not bringing front of boat up as it loads. I was wondering also if the winch post like the old model Stratos had with the spring on it would work it drops down and when the loop hits it it picks the front of the boat up. Cub48
 

NEBRVET

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I have a 2001 188 f/s with dual axle trailer. I wonder if my measurements will be close enough to help you out. Give you something to compare?
 

Ken

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I have a Z19 Sport and have the same issue if I back in to far. If I back in to were the water is at the top of my tires I'm okay. When you back in your trailer it is at an angle. on approach your boat is not at the same angle. To get your boat at the proper angle so it clears the roller, the boats hull needs to contact the trailer bunks sooner which will increase the boats angle. The only way to do this is have less trailer in the water. I back in so my bunks are submerged to get them good and wet, then pull up to were water level is at top of my tires.
 

Tony banks

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The brackets for my bunks are non adjustable. But i thought about putting shims between the bunks and brackets on the front side of the bunks, too raise the front of the boat higher off the bow roller. this would "bowe" the front end of the bunks higher but leave the rear end of the bunks the same height, basically bowing the bunks up on the winch end of the trailer. Maybe 1/2" blocks would be enough for my boat to clear the roller?
 

Cub48

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Ken I tried this yesterday first time i backed in to where i would normally back in water with fender top out of water. Boat hit roller at rub rail this is with motor trimmed and hit throttle like normal. Try #2 backed boat back in pulled trailer up to where water level at lip of top fender did same thing boat stops before getting to roller put strap on and winched on just like not of cleared the rub rail. Today i cut 1 1/2 " out of post and have it where it just touches with no pressure on boat then welded it up at this position be Monday before i can try it out. Tony i looked at that also the brackets are just flat steel Lowes has flat steel just bend a 90 and drill the two holes then like you said leave rear same and raise front clamp, drill new holes in strap put two bolts in so they will stay straight. this way you can adjust. Problem with the shims is there are 3 brackets the front one is 1/2" the middle one is ? Also getting the right length of bolts if they are too long could be bad on bottom of boat. Cub48
 

Tony banks

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Hey, great information buddy, Thanks! Sounds like you are making progress. I dont have access to a welder, but i have thought about cutting mine off and having the post welded back up. I considered even cutting the post at a slight angle, so the roller would be lower and sloped away from the bow, slightly.
 

Cub48

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If you will wait a few days, when i get time to try mine out i will let you know if it helped. As of right now i put my post in place the roller is just under the boat with about a 1/4" between the roller and boat when i put the strap on it, it is tight against the roller. I didn't want to put a lot of down pressure on boat so this is as short as i can go. My opinion is the boat does not have enough taper on the noise just my 2 cents LOL.
 

USNFC

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Good info in this thread. I had the same problem on my Nitro and I've loaded/unloaded many boats. I was able to get it by pulling the trailer out of the water more, but if the ramp were any steeper it would have been a real pain. Definitely following thread. Cub48, if not too much trouble, if it works, please post some pictures. I have a welder and am pretty handy, so I'd like to see if I can make it a bit easier on myself.
 

Cub48

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I loaded my boat yesterday and it did like it was supposed to. i had the fender top sticking out of the water lined up like i normally do and with motor trimmed it ran all the way to the loop and stopped. I had drilled another hole and cut off where the roller was at which was about a 1/2" but that didn't help so i carried my post to a buddy that had a band saw so we sawed 1 1/2" out i took the piece that we cut out and cleaned paint off cut it in half and trimmed it so it would fit inside of post that way i could move move post up and down I put post in position and moved it up until it just touched the boat with no pressure i had about a 1/4 " low after i welded i could space it up if i needed to. I think the 1 1/2" would of been about right if i had not lowered the roller so i would try that you can set the post up on the trailer before you weld it to make sure it fits right. I didn't want too much clearance so it would be putting the boat under pressure on the bunks. The 1/4" was ok as the boat settled down and was setting on the roller when i got to the river. I will update as i use the boat more.
 

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