Fuel Octane

[Sean Troy]

I keep hearing if you are going to fill your tank for part of the winterizing process, you should use a higher octane fuel like 91 or better. Why is that? I hope I won't have to winterize at least before November but you never know with this weather this year. Thanks, Sean

 

[firedog978]

Sean, I don't believe it's EVER a good idea to use higher octane fuel in your outboard. It's not recommended at all for them.

 

[cq]

Run what is recommended. Save your money.



cq

 

[TOMMY RICH]

I've heard of guys doing that thinking that they will lose octane rating over the months.

IMHO it is not necassary with a good treatment like Stabil for Ethanol.

 

[Sean Troy]

I didn't think it was needed if you are using a good fuel treatment. I wonder if that started before ethanol was introduced to fuel and engines didn't have the computer s they do now. thanks, Sean

 

[John W2]

Bob B.'s recommendation prior to bringing my boat to him for winterizing is fill the tank with a higher octane rated fuel because you will lose a few points over the winter, and add two cans of Seafoam. During normal usage I use 87 octane. FWIW, if Bob B. told me my Opti would run better by adding Vermont made maple syrup to the tank I would be heading north this weekend to buy some.

 

[Dan J.]

When I put an engine up for long term storage (8 weeks +) I move up one grade at the pump, usually from 87 to 89. (Disregard on XB and high compression motors requiring 90 or better octane.) This will help stave off oxygen deprivation which happens to all oxygenated fuels over time. (The more volatile the fuel, the quicker deprivation occurs.) Additionaly, Quikkleen or Ring Free AND Startron Enzyme or Marine Stabil should be added in ratio to fuel. (I double dose the stabilizer chosen.) I have yet to experience any issues on restart over time doing this, but I have seen some ugly aftermath from those who didn't. Good luck!

 

[Sean Troy]

Am I correct that you would run the engine (with muffs of course) for about 15 min. at idle after filling the tank and adding the additive of your choice, this will get all the additive protection throughout your system?

 

[Bob G.]

I add my double dose of fuel stabilizer before my last trip or two and let it get through the system before it's time to winterize.

 

[Bob Bourget2]

If your rig is going to sleep for periods longer than a couple of months, we are recommending a higher octane fuel for storage purposes only, due to the fuel losing some of it's octane {regardless of additives}. This simply cannot be avoided due to the free exchange of "air" by means of the fuel venting system. Alcohol will evap readily and IT is being used as an octane enhancing agent. Nothing on the market will prevent this from occurring short of a closed system.

 

[Sean Troy]

Thank you all. I feel more confident when the time comes to put the boat up for the winter. Sean

 

[Ed Haugh]

Isn't is a little early to talk about winterizing?



KYSean, you mentioned running the motor for 15 mins on muffs to ensure the stabilized fuel reaches the motor. I'm not sure that is long enough. What I do is pull the cover from the motor, disconnect the fuel line, put the fuel line in a CLEAN glass jar, and pump the bulb until the jar is full of fuel. I do this twice. Why? Because I have an in-line fuel filter / water separator that holds a lot of fuel. I want to be completely sure I have fully stabilized fuel at the motor before I run it for 15 minutes.

 

[Sean Troy]

That begs another question, should filters be changed after you run your winterized fuel through the system when you get the boat back out in the spring? Yes, to early to get the boat ready for winter. I still have a couple of months of good fishing weather here. I hope!

 

[Mike Orth]

What about filling with Non-Oxy? Would that be the best option for long-term storage and even daily use? My understanding is that it is ethanol free and thus does not have a separation or evaporation issue. Anyone know for sure?



Nothing beats a Black N Blue Jig!



Mike

 

[Bob Bourget2]

We change the filters during the winterization process. No problems as a result of this methodology.

As far as "ethanol-free fuel".....IF you can get it, and IF you are not going to mix it with ethanol fuels...use it! It is far more "stabil" than it's counterpart with alcohol. There is still the need for additives that keep the system clean, injectors flowing properly, and if used infrequently, a stabilizer.

 

[TOMMY RICH]

So Bob...If I get my gas in Tenn. at a Citgo that's on Dale Hollow and get "ethanol free" gas, should I run all that out before I fill up in Ohio with E10?

What's the hupla about not mixing?

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Yes Tee, run it out before "mixing" it. IF the non-ethanol stuff is laden with "methyl-tertiary-butyl-ether...i.e. MTBE}, and it should state such on the pump, it will not mix with alcohol.....especially if you introduce a two-cycle oil into the "mix".....

 

[TOMMY RICH]

Well then, my engine should have blown years ago?:unsure:

Don't know if the stuff has the MTBE in or not but, I'll find out next time I'm down there.

I still use the Stabil (ethanol) regardless when pumping E10.

 

[Bob Bourget2]

You might consider yourself "lucky"......

 

[TOMMY RICH]

Is most of the "non ethanol" gas filled with MTBE?

 

[Bob Bourget2]

To the best of my knowledge...but..it should state on the pump.....

 

[TOMMY RICH]

Thanks Bob