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bherron1

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2020 Tracker Pro Guide V175WT 150 Mercury EFI single axel trailer with brakes. Did I buy the wrong trailer ? Im thinking I should have opted for the tandem axel with the 150 EFI The 90 EFI Mercury is the standard engine that comes on this boat. The reason Im asking is I am replacing a hub assembly each year two so far. The easy lube axel keeps waring a hole in the rubber plug in the dust cap. Seems to be the grease fitting. Just did it again third time water in hub. I have no idea why.
 
Are you replacing these parts yourself? Sounds like a factory defect and warranty should be fixing the problem. On the question of a single axle or tandem trailer, my old boat was an 18.5‘ Glastron with a huge 4.3 V6 (190 HP) that came on a single axle trailer. Never had any problems with a hub in the 20 years I owned it. No boat hub is waterproof, you have to keep the bearing buddy greased up to push the water out. 4 or 5 pumps about once a month seemed to do the trick for me.
 
I had a problem with finding the right size rear seal. The auto parts stores sells a standard Bering kit with new seals (always had water in the hub). These seals will not fit the axel spindle. went got on the internet found the axel brand and ordered the seals to fit. Was replacing bearings and seals once a year for a few years, until this.
Check the spindles and make sure they have not been damaged. Mike the spindles for the size to double check the back seals inter dia. is the correct size for the new seals.
 
2020 Tracker Pro Guide V175WT 150 Mercury EFI single axel trailer with brakes. Did I buy the wrong trailer ? Im thinking I should have opted for the tandem axel with the 150 EFI The 90 EFI Mercury is the standard engine that comes on this boat. The reason Im asking is I am replacing a hub assembly each year two so far. The easy lube axel keeps waring a hole in the rubber plug in the dust cap. Seems to be the grease fitting. Just did it again third time water in hub. I have no idea why.

I would replace the hub assembly with Dexter Vortex hubs, they are guaranteed for 100,000 miles or 5 years no maintenance. After that just change the grease in the hub by a grease fitting in the back of the hub that push's the old grease out. The grease they use is Lucas. I have a tandem axel trailer with them I installed and they work great so far. I have about 5,000 miles on them with a lot of in and out of the water launches.
 
I would replace the hub assembly with Dexter Vortex hubs, they are guaranteed for 100,000 miles or 5 years no maintenance. After that just change the grease in the hub by a grease fitting in the back of the hub that push's the old grease out. The grease they use is Lucas. I have a tandem axel trailer with them I installed and they work great so far. I have about 5,000 miles on them with a lot of in and out of the water launches.
what is the part number for the Dexter Vortex hub? When I do a reach for them I only come up with the replacement caps. When I searched for Vortex, it comes up with the ones made by TieDown Engineering.
 
I am quite curious about these hub/bearing failures. I've owned many boats and many trailers (many over 30 years old). I used to pull the wheels on the older units and hand pack them, or just grease the newer units once (maybe twice) a year ( usually in the spring). I pull several thousand miles a season, and the boat is rarely out of the water for more than a week at a time. Am very curious, if the issue is blowing out the rear seal by greasing the bearings too much or when completely cold. Checked my new dexter manual (stated as recommended by spindle and hub manufacturer), super lube( they say as needed- have no idea what that means), and the tracker manual ( keep the wheel bearings proper lubricated at all times - guess someone is supposed to sit on the fender and continually grease them - they also recommend carry spare races bearings and seals- wow great faith in a product ( having said that I used to travel the back country a lot and did that as standard practice anyway). I called white star , the indicated once or twice a season (except for sea water use - more ofter). The folks at tie down were non- committed ( a direct result of our sue happy culture). Curious minds prevail, so I completely disassembled and reassembled; based upon the design, in my opinion, it would be difficult to over grease the Tie Down Super lubes unless the grease and bearings were cold and stiff, which I suppose is why the manuals tell you to do so and spin the wheels while greasing the bearings. I say this because the design will push grease out the front seal, as long as the rear seal holds. I am not a fan of aftermarket parts ( even many electronic chips will not perform to specs). So am guessing that some of the problem may be out of tolerance parts.. Am very curious as to what you and you mechanics are finding as the causes of failures? Feel free to bash me, I typically learn more from my beatings and scars, than from eating ice cream.
 
what is the part number for the Dexter Vortex hub? When I do a reach for them I only come up with the replacement caps. When I searched for Vortex, it comes up with the ones made by TieDown Engineering.

Dexter makes the hubs for TieDown Engineering. All you need to know is the inner and outer size of the bearings more likely outer 1"1/6th inner 2"3/8 or 2"1/4 the NMMA set the standard for the spindle size per axel weight.
 
I lube the hubs of my trailer once a year, I pump blue marine grease into the Sure Lube Hubs until the grease STARTS coming out, no need to try to replace all the grease in the hub. One issue people have is putting too much grease in the hub, you will for sure blow the seal out. When on a trip I check the hubs at every stop for excessive heat. Have you checked your hubs for excessive movement back and forth. Bearings not seated and hub tightned properly when installed will allow hub movement which inturn will blow the seals. Have you tried a zerk fitting with shorter threads to solve the issue with rubbing a hole in the rubber hub seal.
 
The trailer that came with the boat is more than ample to carry your boat around. I have a friend that has the same boat except it has a 90 on the back. The 150 hp motor is only a 100 lbs heavier than the 90.
 
I've dealt with Dexter, Tie down, Vortex etc etc. Ive changed out actuators, bled system, you name I've done it, in some cases 2-3 times. I can claim to be a certified trailer specialist. What I cannot seem to figure out is brake dust. It's not as bad as it once was, but I still collect more than I'm happy with. I'm always checking hub temp and they're fine, but my rear wheels on tandem are covered in brake dust when I get to my destination. What have I not done or what is causing this. I want shiny, polished wheels when I arrive.
 

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