Bob B. Fuel line replacement question

[Bill McElroy]

Bob,...I need to replace the fuel lines on my tank and motor (1987 150 EFI,..2.5Liter) to the new alcohol resistant kind. (I'm getting intermittent drops in RPM's that I believe are being caused by fuel line restrictions due to the old lines "flaking" on the inside and causing fuel flow issues in the lines and/or filter). Anyway,.my question(s) is this.



1. Should I replace the 3-4 smaller lines on the motor in addition to the main line going from the fuel tank to the fuel pump? I was "told" 2 different stories by 2 diff merc dealers by my house. One said, "We need to order the ones for the motor directly from Mercury, since they are molded/formed to fit in the tight places without kinking,..they are seperate part numbers". The other dealer told me (and showed me the illustrations and descriptions that said,.."Use bulk lines for service,...there are NO kit's or seperate part numbers for those lines,..you simply cut to length and replace with tie straps!" So who's BS'n who here?? :blink::angry:



Can I replace those lines myself by buying the correct "bulk line" and cutting to length, etc.....or do I need to let a tech do it?? I'm not going to take it to the place that says I have to have "custom parts from Merc" so he can charge me out the ying yang, when all he's doing is cutting bulk line and taking me for a ride!!



What is the CORRECT way to do this??



Thanks......BTW,..I have my motor serial number in my truck....I can go get it if you need it!!

thanks!

Mac

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Well....they are both correct. What they failed to "qualify" is low pressure and high pressure hoses. All of the low pressure hose are BULK cut. The high pressure hoses are in fact form fit and sold as a "kit" for the application. I would do the low-pressure stuff, and you can certainly do it yourself. Be sure there are no kinks, and, as always, check for any leaks once pressurized...by the primer bulb and fuel pump. The high pressure hoses require special crimping tools and fasteners for a leak-free seal. Leave these alone. These are easy to see once under the cowl.



One other issue...if the fuel line has in fact "flaked"....you'll need to rebuild the pulse pump, clean the VST, and replace all of the filters. That stuff works it way through everything.:blink:

 

[Bill McElroy]

OK...cool!! Thanks for the clarification. I don't know why my motor is acting the way it is.....at first, I thought it might be the voltage regulator which I did replace. It didnt cure the symptom.



Here's what's happening.....sometimes, at the start...I can't even get enough RPM's to get out of the hole..it will feel like I'm trying to pull a truck out of the mud!!..Other times it jumps right out and runs like a scalded dog. Other times, I'll be running along at @ 5000 RPM's and all of the sudden it will bog down...RPM's drop down to 4000 and will stay there for a few,...then suddenly jump back up to 5000 and run fine again. There's no pattern to it other than total randomness...which makes me think "fuel line flaking and restriction or filter issues".



When I am running WOT and it does that,...it never drops below 4000....it just goes from 5000+ down to 4000.....for seconds or minutes,...then suddenly shoots back up to 5000+ and runs fine..................very wierd!!



Any thoughts??:huh:

 

[Bob Bourget2]

That is NOT symtomatic of a fuel issue, but more of an electrical problem. I would check stator voltage, both high and low.....ideally, a spark tester would be placed on the motor while operating it. Watch for inconsistent or a dropped cylinder when the rpm loss occurs.

Electrical components that COULD cause this..

Stator

CDM

Switch box

Spark plug

ECM

Reg / rectifier

Flywheel {magnets}

 

[Bill McElroy]

Wow,..glad I didn't spend a bunch of time and coin on fuel lines when it wouldn't have fixed it!! Sounds like I'm going to have to take it in and have a tech hook it up and do some elec. sys. diagnostics on it!! I don't have the tools or know-how to do any of that!!



Man you're a great asset to have on this board!! Sure wish you lived in SE MI. :lol:



Thanks a bunch!!

 

[Bob G.]

Mac,



I'd still change the fuel line and primer bulb for the hell of it. I did mine this year cuz I can't get non-ethanol fuel locally anymore.

 

[Bill McElroy]

I will deffinitely have the fuel lines changed when I take it in for the elec. check.

Can you give me a ball park estimate of how much the major components cost??



My seriel number is 0D262933 I think.....(I left the paper out in the truck!!) It's a 1987 150 EFI (2.5 litre)



Thnx

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Wrong number.....that is a carb engine...

 

[Bill McElroy]

Here's the correct number,...I was off by a digit!!...LOL...(memory isn't what it use to be!!)



0D262903

 

[Bob Bourget2]

You really want to know.....ouch....

stator $450

ECU $1700

flywheel $480.

All ballpark......get it evaluated first.....we still insist on the "basics"....fuel delivery and quality, electricals, compression.

 

[Bill McElroy]

Yeah,...that sux!! I'll have to take it in and let them check it out. I'll take it to the same place where Mini takes his boat. It's WAAAAYY out of my way, but worth it I guess,....evidently he's the best Merc man this side of Mass.!! LOL



I sure as hell hope it ISN'T the ECU,....that would suck lava!! I'll keep u posted!

Thanks for the research......much appreciated!!



Mac