Beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep! Dang. Fishing trip wasted.

[TritonGlenn]

It's been a while since I've had time to take my boat out. Today being veterans day, I took the day off with the express intention of running my boat and scouting a new reservoir that I've never fished - but have a tournament in December. Actually, two tournaments.



So I drive the 2 1/2 hours plus to a very nice looking park on Coleto Creek Reservoir. Ramp fee was steep - $9. I've paid more though, so I just paid it and launched. I started my engine right after putting it in the water, to let it idle while I parked my truck. Day started out cold when I left the house - 34 degrees. But by the time I made it to the ramp and launched, it had warmed up to the mid 60's. I came back after parking and used the trolling motor to get out of the launching cove, as it was covered in submerged grass about 2 foot below the surface. Hindsight being what it is - I probably should have trimmed up my outboard or shut it off. I got out of the creek and into the 20+ foot deep main channel. I popped it up on step and backed off the throttle, planning to just cruise the reservoir and check it out a bit before dunking a line.



Now, last time I had it out, while running it, my engine would periodically give a beep, but then it would go away. Just one second long "Beep!", and then nothing. Originally, I thought maybe I was hitting the rev limiter, but I wasn't. It did it about 3 times that day, while running WOT. I SHOULD have looked at the water pressure gauge, but didn't. Bad Glenn... Bad.



Today, I got WAAAAAAY up away from the ramp and set down to fish. After fishing for a while, I idled out to the main channel and tried to pop it up on plane. Beeeeeeeeeeeep! I let off the trottle and it stopped beeping. Tried it again - Beeeeeeeeeep! I turned off my engine and trimmed it up - nothing blocking the intakes that I could see. I put it back in the water, threw it in reverse and gave it some gas. Put it back in forward, popped it up on plane, and off I went with no problem. Just as I decided to open it up a bit, there it went again - Beeeeeeep! This time, I looked down at my water pressure gauge - about 8 psi. I didn't look at the speed, but I guess I was about at 40mph or so. I backed off the throttle and it went away. Tried to speed up and it did it again. Trimmed up and down, jack plate up and down - Water pressure stayed between 6 and 8 PSI, never going any higher than that. I backed way off and drove it most of the way to the ramp with the engine trimmed just slightly out, and the RPM's kept low. Right as the ramp came in sight, it started again - Beeeeeeep! I came off plane and started idling back. PSI's barely reading on the gauge - steady, but weaker than normal stream coming out of the engine. Turned it off and used the trolling motor for about a 1/2 hour troll back to the ramp. I put it on the trailer and popped the cowl. Engine was barely warm to the touch. Not hot at all on any exposed metal surface.



I drove all the way home and threw it on the hose to flush the engine for 5 minutes. At first, when I turned the hose on, nothing came out for quite some time. It's like nothing was getting through. I could hear gurgling in the engine, and then water started squirting out everywhere it should. After flushing it for 5 minutes, I threw it on the engine muffs and turned the water back on again. I started the engine and ran it for a few seconds, but the stream is very weak, and the gauge doesn't read at all when it's on the muffs - but I don't think it ever did. When I was flushing it though - the gauge was reading about 3 PSI.



Sounds like it's running fine. Hope I didn't mess anything up. Wondering if I should take it to a mechanic or if Bob could walk me though a procedure for tearing into it to check the impeller / thermostats / etc....



All the best,

Glenn



Beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep!

 

[Gilbert Scales2]

Glenn, I had the same problem a while back. My water pump was bad. Bob will let you know, what to check. Good luck with it.



Bubby

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Pardon me for not remembering......but I need a motor and serial.....then we'll walk it through for 'ya...

 

[TritonGlenn]

Sorry about that! I did all that rambling, and I left out the most important items.



2005 Mercury Optimax 225L

Serial number 1B189431



All the best,

Glenn

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Ok, so it's Saturday and I'm home but let's start HERE...

-1] Remove compressor strainer and clean. Located on the port side on the rear of the adaptor plate. VERY prone to clog and deprive the compressor of coolant.

-2] Remove therms and clean. While they are out back flush with a hose.

-3] Remove poppet and clean.



With this motor, it has a floppy vane impeller that is VERY resistant to abuse. I would actually look here LAST after you've done the above.......let me know how it works out!!!

 

[TritonGlenn]

Bob,

I'd absolutely love to do those things, but I have absolutely no idea where to even start. Have tools - willing to tear into anything. I just don't know what to start ripping into first, or even where they are. What is the adaptor plate?



Always wanted to remove the thems / poppet and clean - never have though, as I don't know how. My old mechanic in VA used to pull stuff out of them all the time. I had them change the impeller once, even though they adamantly told me it didn't need to be done before even looking. They gave me the old one to show me after they had done it - looked almost brand new, with the flexible fins barely curved back in one direction. They said I wasted my money - but I was trying to be 100% sure. My mechanic got a good laugh out of that and said "trust me next time". I did from that point on.



I really need to get a Smartcraft monitor too.



All the best,

Glenn

 

[TritonGlenn]

OK - found an article with pictures regarding the compressor strainer here:



http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/319489-how-thread-w-pics-cleaning-your-optimax-compressor-cooling-water-strainer.html



I hope that's right, because I've got it to the point that I'm about to remove the strainer as noted in those instructions. I don't have an 18mm deep well socket though, so I'll have to make a trip to the store in the morning to get one.



If I'm not following the right directions, please steer me back to the right place. Thanks for the help Bob. I greatly appreciate it!



All the best,

Glenn

 

[TritonGlenn]

After digging around, I can't seem to locate the poppet. Is there only one, and if so, where is it? I found something on the starboard side of the exhaust plate, across the engine from the strainer, that looks like the cover I've seen in pictures on other models of outboards. But I don't want to pull it until I'm sure.



I think I have the thermostats identified, although it looks like the fuel rails / hoses are in the way. How do I go about removing the cover for the thermostat if that fuel rail hose assembly is blocking me from pulling it back on both sides?



Sorry for all the questions. I got out the tools and got excited at the prospect of fixing this myself.



Should I just replace the thermostats while I have it torn down? Or just clean them? If I flush it with the therms removed, am I back flushing it from the therm holes, or connecting to the flush like before? Either way, seems like everything in there is going to get wet. Bad?



All the best,

Glenn

 

[TritonGlenn]

Well, it's not the strainer. I pulled that today. Looked clean as brand new. One little pebble stuck in one of the holes - popped it right out. Other than that - very clean. Bummer. After seeing all the clogged ones online, I was hoping to pull it and see it clogged.



Therms and poppet next. If I can figure out how to get them out with the fuel rails right there.



Thanks again Bob. I'm appreciate the help and am anxiously awaiting to hear from you again.



All the best,

Glenn

 

[Tornado]

Bad weekend all around, my big motor has a similiar problem. I've had the pleasure of fishing Coletto many times and can give you a few general pointers. The primary one is never run the river outside of the channel, it gets shallow quickly and in places there is structure that does bad things to boats. The second general rule is you can not fish to shallow, we've had people cast on the bank and drag off into the water and get bit. If we can get together with a map I can show you the coves that have been good to our club over the years.



How is your deer season going?

 

[TritonGlenn]

Tornado,

Deer season is pretty much over for me. They closed Buck season two weeks into the archery season, and I haven't seen a doe on my camera in months. Lots of fawns, spikes, bucks, pigs, etc... But no does.



I did get my heart racing a few weeks ago when I actually heard turkeys, called them in, and watched them pass within a few feet of my ground blind. I was disappointed, then excited, then a bit peaved all in the span of about an hour. I passed on shooting any of the 8 that passed in front of me, as the rule book (which I read religiously) said that the only hens we could shoot were bearded hens. So I didn't even draw my bow back. Then I get back to the game shack to hear the manager say "Oh yeah, we changed that about two weeks ago. You can shoot non-bearded hens now". At first I though "Yes!", followed quickly by "Why the heck didn't you guys tell anyone? I could have had my Thanksgiving Turkey all wrapped up!". I'm not even going to get into his answer. Doesn't matter. Fact is - I'm 0 for 3 years in Texas on wild game too. I need to break this losing streak fast!



If you want to go prefish with me, I'd gladly have you in my boat after I get it fixed. I'm doing a Lowrance appearance in the new Texas store next weekend - Harlingen TX. I'm so far south, I don't think I could get any further without being in Mexico!



All the best,

Glenn

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Good job thus far! The fuel rail is easily removed to allow access to the therms. They are held on by two nuts, on studs. Carefully pull it back to get the proper clearance. Remove therms, replace them.

Poppet is located on the stbd side as you depicted. Remove it, and replace the rubber "poppet" as well.

Yes, put the hose into the openings left by the therms and the poppet, back flush accordingly.

If it still shows no debris, we will look to the impeller / pump next.

 

[TritonGlenn]

Bob,

Called my local Tracker dealer for parts. Are thermostats really this expensive???? He quoted me $92 each for the thermostats alone! I was thinking they would be priced like car thermostats - relatively cheap. Did he make a mistake? He said he would have to order them, so I'm holding until I hear from you.

All the best,

Glenn

 

[Bob Bourget2]

That sounds unusually "high". I will check for you first thing in the morning...

 

[TritonGlenn]

Thanks Bob. I pulled the thermostats and poppet today.



Starboard side thermostat had wood chunks in it, holding it slightly open:

I cleared this much wood from it:

Port side thermostat had wood chunks in it as well, holding it slightly open:

Bigger chunks cleared from the the Port side:

Took this part off the poppet valve. Kinda muddy, but no chunks of anything in it:

This is what is left in the engine after removing that part. Is there more to remove?:

On the flushing, am I supposed to "back flush" from the port in the block, or the thermostat cover / inlet with the hose attached to it?

Lastly - not related to this repair, but I've always wondered. What is this piece? It looks like a spare to something, but I have no idea what it does. It's not connected to anything on either end:

Thanks!

All the best,

Glenn

 

[Bob Bourget2]

Good job again! The poppet still has to be removed, one more piece. You'll see the rest of it when you "pop" it off. Back flush through the block for the therms and the poppet. At this point, since you are familiar with "how-to", I would like you to re-assemble it with the same parts, other than some new gaskets needed. The stuck therms / wood will not allow the motor to reach CRUCIAL operating temps, and now that they will close properly, let's have a go. The other mystery part is the analog / digital speedo connector. I will check the price of the therms once I get to work, just so you have an idea of the "real" cost. I seem to remember closer to $70...each....

 

[Bob Bourget2]

130 degree therms $72.97 ea. #8M0057307......

 

[Dan J.]

Not to horn in, but to hopefully save you a trip and $150. Several times I have checked therms and reinstalled them after a quick accuracy verification. (Debris like you found or hardened mud/rocks are their problem 95% of the time.) All you need is a small pan of water and a kitchen thermometer. Bring the water to a simmer and put the thermometer in it and it should read close to 200 degrees. When the temp starts dropping after the heat is turned off, watch for it to get about 135-140 degrees and drop in the therms. You should notice them open quickly, and if they do you're half done. Keep an eye on the thermometer and around 125 degrees on down you should note the therms closing as the water cools. (Don't be alarmed if one therm is slightly faster or slower opening/closing, but in this test they should be reacting within split seconds of each other.) If the higher and lower temp range check pass, I'd reinstall them and run it like you stole it! Good luck.

 

[TritonGlenn]

Bob,

Thanks for the price look-up and continued advice. The poppet "popped" while I was at work today. Found the pieces on the floor of my garage when I got home. So now it's completely apart. I flushed the engine well today, as you advised.



Dan J (and Bob),

I did the test that Dan recommended. When the water hit 140, I dropped them both in, but neither opened very quickly at all. When they did open, they weren't open a great deal. I took this picture at 139 degrees. You can see light in each of them, as they are open, just not a great deal open:

.



The water started cooling off, and I monitored both of them. The Port side thermostat (note I marked it with a "P") closed completely at 129 degrees. The Starboard side thermostat closed completely at 126 degrees.



Is this normal, or should I also order thermostats when I order my gaskets? Everything I want has to be ordered. They don't have any of it in stock.



Thanks again.

All the best,

Glenn

 

[Scott Hammer TOXIC]

I'm sure you will get your question answered but in the meantime send me a $100 money order and I won't tell your wife you used her good Calphalon pot for boiling your stats.:lol::lol:



TOXIC

 

[TritonGlenn]

:lol:



Tox,



That's nothin'! You should see what I did to the oven while making spinnerbaits and jigs!



All the best,

Glenn

 

[Bob Bourget2]

The therms are crucial for the proper operation and longevity of your engine....when in doubt, replace them. I recommend every two seasons to ALL opti owners. Too cold, 3.0's will cold seize. I cannot emphasize the importance of cooling system maintenance enough.

 

[Texas Transplant]

Yeah Tox, I thought the same thing. We just purchased a set on Analon (similar to Calphon) and protecting the non-stick is a constant subject around the house now.



Dan - been an interesting thread and a great learning experience. I assume that you are picking up and/or ordering the new parts now. Thanks to ALL that contributed.



Tex

 

[Dan J.]

I agree with Bob. A good set of therms should fully open at designated temp, close to a half inch (+/-), to allow full circulation on the head when needed. This is particularly important on the Opti's to keep temp consistant. With the range depicted and described, I'd definitely replace them. Sorry you went through the pot check to this outcome, but now you know for certain. Good luck!

 

[TritonGlenn]

Thanks everyone. I ordered my parts today. I ordered some extra stuff too. Figured while I was at it, I'd order some spares. I skipped the dealer and went with a place someone recommended to me. They are MarinePartsPlus.Com, and they had all of the parts cheaper. Any order over $50 shipped free too.



I purchased thermostats with 4 gaskets (2 extra gaskets, just in case I need them later), the diaphragm, washer, grommet, poppet, and two gaskets to do the poppet, and a strainer for less than I was quoted for just the two thermostats. Quite a bit less actually. The thermostats were only $70 at this place.



Some of the poppet items were special order, so it's going to take a little extra time. I'll just clean things up in the meantime while I wait.



Thanks again for all of your help! Hopefully, this fixes my problems.

All the best,

Glenn

 

[David Munaretto]

This has always been a great site. No doubt about it, the most helpful place for honest answers to anything. But I have to say, this thread is AMAZING. Start at the top, work your way down, and think about it. Where else could you find this content? A hundred bucks says you can't find anything better through google...



David

 

[Bob Bourget2]

One more mention about the therm "test", as Dan suggested it is a great way to test the operation. About the opening once temp is reached.....

If the test is performed as the heated water is cooling down, and you plunk the fully closed therms in, the rate of OPENING will be slow. The outboard is acting the opposite. Temps quickly rise, and once past the 140 degree range, climb quickly to over 150+. The rate at which the therms open will be MUCH quicker than you witnessed going the other way. Keep the old therms handy as an emergency "spare".