2004 grizzly 1754CC wiring concern

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nativejim

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Hello folks. I purchased an old friends 2004 Grizzly 1754 that had sit uncovered (not the console) for around 5 years. I cleaned the boat and removed all leaves and limbs before starting on restoring things. I have a problem I can't solve; power to harness but none through either switch (bilge, live well pumps, or nav. lights period. All work when directly connected so...

Yes, I have cleaned all contacts both physically and with contact cleaner. It appears Tracker used the same harness throughout their boats as would be common.

Got the motor running yesterday so good there.

Where to check next??
 

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I'm sure you checked this, but is there a main power switch that needs to be on before any of the others receive power? An inline fuse or breaker? If that checks out, you can run wires directly from the battery to a switch, B+ to red, B- to black. Leave all of the other wires connected. If the circuit doesn't work, check for a bad switch. If the circuit works, disconnect the negative wire from the battery. If the circuit quits working, it is a bad ground. If it still works, disconnect the B+ wire, and check for power to the switch. Could be an animal chewed through 1 or more wires.
 
thought the same thing on fuse/breaker, but have no idea where it could be. checked under the console, removed the side panel from the boat, and the panel along the right side....any idea where one may be
 
in mine there is a master switch in the rear compartment. its a battery cut off . good idea for all boats . had one burn
 
My fuse is right at the battery. 20 amp. Don't know if it's the correct size.
But it should be easily accessible - fuse or breaker. If you check with wires from the battery to the switches, or use a volt/ohm meter, that will help narrow down the problem. When you say 'All work when directly connected', was that at the switch? If you disconnect the boat wiring harness, do you have power between the red and black terminals?
 
found that fuse at the battery positive, all good. this harness leaves there, folds into another one, then goes to the console and joins another making about 11-13 wires which go to the ignition, then the switch cluster. checked the bilge and aerator pumps at the battery, all good.
I may try to bypass the switch assembly altogether but fear I will cut out any low oil or heat alert. I don't like DC current....
 
I agree. Life would be so much easier with only AC. And all that space wasted by fuel tanks and batteries could be used for extension cords.

I wouldn't bypass the switches. 1/2 of the problem is already taken care of.
Everything is off. Now you just need to get them on.
 
at close of my day yesterday I happened to be probing wires and found that on a positive (block) connection I had continuity through the hull (positive from battery to hull completed a circuit.)
that can't be correct; do I have a ground wire touching the hull somewhere?
 
That should be ok, in fact I think the hull should be a ground. Makes tracking the problem easier. Have you disconnected the wiring harness at the 1st connector and checked for power between red and black terminals and/or red to hull? If power, reconnect and follow red wire to next connector and check the same way.
 
found a corroded connected, replaced, all is well. thanks cceguy for the suggestions; I can now use the dash switches.

I was able to cancel my order on the long extension cords.
 

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