1999 Pro Team 185 Dash and Switches

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mobilehomer

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I just bought a 1999 Pro Team 185, 90 Tracker. I would like to know what all the switches do. No info on the Tracker website. I would really like a manual. Anyone know where to find one? Thanks, Ken
 

Dan J.

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The Tracker manual for that year and model will be little to no help on your switches. It is very generic. Hopefully one of the current members can post up what theirs look like and do. Good luck! ;)
 

mobilehomer

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Thanks, Dan and cq, I already have the diagram, I was hoping someone had some more explicit info. I can figure most things out, but RTFM always helps.
 

Carl S

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I have the same boat and year.
1) Accessories - A power switch that does not do anything unless you wire or the previous owner wired some extra item to the boat and used this switch to turn it on/off.
2) Aerator - Manual position will run the aerator pump continuously.
Automatic (Auto) runs the pump every so many minutes and then shuts off. Repeats cycle.
3) Bilge - Turns the bilge pump on/off
4) Navigation (Nav) Top position - Turns all your dash lights, bow light and stern lights on.
Anchor - Bottom position only turns on the stern light
5) Aerator switch on the driver side of the boat behind the throttle control
Empty - This position will empty the live well by means of gravity only. It will not pump it out.
Automatic (Auto) - Put in this position to fill the live well and keep water in it. However, it will slowly drain your livewell if you take the boat out of the
water. So it is tough to transport fish home in the live well. Also make sure you have a inlet screen on the live well inlet port on
the back of the boat under the transom. If not, it is easy to suck in debris that will seize your aerator pump and burn it up.
The aerator inlet port is the one on the left as your looking from the back of the boat. The port on the right is your
livewell overflow drain.
6) If you have (2) reset circuit breakers by the aerator switch, these are for the trolling motor. If they ever "pop" out push them in to reset. I believe each one is
a 25 amp breaker.
If you have any other question feel free to ask.
 

Richard Ehlers (SevenPin)

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Mobilehomer,
I have the same boat. Here is a picture of my switches:

Switches2.jpg


ACC - Accessory switches (12V DC plugs, floor light (?), if anything is ran thru the fuse panel I guess it would be controlled by this switch. My finders must be hard-wired to the battery as I never use this switch.
AERATOR -- Man (manual operation) - Auto (automatic operation) (The fill switch should be on your right side back behind the throttle. It's a two position switch with EMPTY and AUTO positions (I think).
BILGE - On/Off switch for the bilge pump. I replaced my original bilge pump with an Auto-bilge so it goes on as soon as the boat is in the water.
LIGHTS - NAV> (front and rear navigation lights) ANC> Dash lights (but I think the rear nav light also lights up when the switch is on ANC.)

At least I believe that's how the switches are. If anyone else knows differently, feel free to post and correct my guestimates.

Rick (aka SevenPin)
 

Richard Ehlers (SevenPin)

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I have the same boat and year.
1) Accessories - A power switch that does not do anything unless you wire or the previous owner wired some extra item to the boat and used this switch to turn it on/off.
2) Aerator - Manual position will run the aerator pump continuously.
Automatic (Auto) runs the pump every so many minutes and then shuts off. Repeats cycle.
3) Bilge - Turns the bilge pump on/off
4) Navigation (Nav) Top position - Turns all your dash lights, bow light and stern lights on.
Anchor - Bottom position only turns on the stern light
5) Aerator switch on the driver side of the boat behind the throttle control
Empty - This position will empty the live well by means of gravity only. It will not pump it out.
Automatic (Auto) - Put in this position to fill the live well and keep water in it. However, it will slowly drain your livewell if you take the boat out of the
water. So it is tough to transport fish home in the live well. Also make sure you have a inlet screen on the live well inlet port on
the back of the boat under the transom. If not, it is easy to suck in debris that will seize your aerator pump and burn it up.
The aerator inlet port is the one on the left as your looking from the back of the boat. The port on the right is your
livewell overflow drain.
6) If you have (2) reset circuit breakers by the aerator switch, these are for the trolling motor. If they ever "pop" out push them in to reset. I believe each one is
a 25 amp breaker.
If you have any other question feel free to ask.
Thanks Carl. That helps me out too (see my previous post :oops:)

Rick
 

AirForce

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Dash lights normally (in most boats I've been in) light up in NAV position, some light up with key is turned on (my new boat does that) but dash lights NORMALLY DO NOT light up in anchor mode (ANC). Those switches you posted a pic of are Contura III/IV styles. If you guys ever need new switch caps to replace your old ones and you can't find them, let me know as I have them bookmarked. I had found a site that has some pretty good ones. Switches aren't a problem either as I have a couple of sources for where I get mine at. I've put 18 switches on my pontoon boat (LOTS of led lights). Even put remote switch on for the boarding lights to light up the interior, from a distance of 100ft.

Rick, have you checked to see if your fishfinders have a fuse inline somewhere. On my new boat they had the fishfinder wired to the fuse panel under the dash. On the bow I put in an accessory plug wired back to the dash fuse box and put it on the same circuit/fuse as the console mounted one, since I just remove my HB 597 and pop it into the 2nd station up front.
 

Richard Ehlers (SevenPin)

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Charles, not sure if they do. I really haven't had any issues with the fish-finders so I haven't been forced to troubleshoot. Sounds right on the ANC mode. I was going from memory and haven't been out much when it wasn't light out.
Sounds like your pontoon could be seen from outer space with all those leds :D. If I get interested in doing some night fishing, the led lights will be a must.

Thanks.

Rick
 

mobilehomer

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Thanks, guys. The chart and pics helped me understand the proper way to go. Now, as soon as my new prop gets here, it's FISHING TIME!!!
 

Richard Ehlers (SevenPin)

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Mine was behind the gas tank, almost on the boat bottom and a real bear to change out to the auto type. See below in the orange circle:

Bilge3.jpg


I think the pump above the orange circle is the livewell pump. It's almost in the center of the boat. The batteries are just to the left of the orange circle. Looks like I need to do a little leaf raking in there :eek::p

Hope this helps. I can send a full size picture if this is too small.

Rick
 

mobilehomer

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That appears to be a job for cooler weather. Did you have much trouble with the wiring and hoses after you got it out or was it necessary to do all that in place?
 

AirForce

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bilge pump will be the most easiest to identify as it'll be at the lowest point of the boat almost next to the plug hole. I tried to get into mine to mount the auto bilge switch, but I just couldn't do it. Arms not long enough, and I can't lay on my chest (pacemaker gets in the way and it hurts to bend over, lay on the chest). One day I'll get somebody to help me with it.
 

Richard Ehlers (SevenPin)

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That appears to be a job for cooler weather. Did you have much trouble with the wiring and hoses after you got it out or was it necessary to do all that in place?
Wiring wasn't a problem but the hoses were not fun. All I could do was to pull the old pump out and replace it like Charles mentioned. I had to do it the way Charles couldn't -- on my stomach and reaching into the bilge area to work on it. I think I ended up replacing a couple of sections of hose to give me some more slack.
 

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